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#101 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Im using MDF for the construction. I was going to biscuit join the main pieces of the cabinets, but now I think I might as well just glue everything together and save some money by not having to buy a biscuit joiner.
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#102 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NorCal
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Quote:
I use biscuits to help keep pieces aligned while I apply the clamps, but they don't add to the strength of the final joint. If you're more careful (and patient) than I , butt joints will work fine. |
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#103 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Really? I thought the purpose of biscuits was to provide extra strength for the joint, and I also thought that biscuits allowed for some movement in the joint when two pieces of wood are initially joined. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
Thanks for the tip, if that’s the case then I might just try to be very careful when applying the clamps to make sure everything lines up straight rather than use biscuits. |
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#104 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Quote:
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#105 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes to that. (*sniff, sob, looks for beer*) No answers yet from Kangarooland as to brand names of good vinylic, let's hope someone shares his knowledge. And bisquits...if you like to build something with Lego toys and love 90° angles they are good fun, but not worth to have your sister marry them. Back to acrylic: you don't need dozens of clamps, and clamping crazy angles is something else anyway. Come on, tell us - what is your favourite glue?
Pit |
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#106 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#107 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Yes. But a workbench and a wall you know to be at 90° is fine.
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#108 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: NZ
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After a bit of search I finally found out what this "Vinilic" glue that Pit Hinder talks about. It's just plain old PVA, Polyvinyl Acetate, white glue. No too sure what the best brands are though
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#109 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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I have a question about cutting the hole for the driver.
I notice with a lot of pics I see of speaker constructions that people cut the same hole with two different diameters on either side (its the best I can describe it, don't know the technical term). Is it necessary to do this or can I just cut a hole and be done with it? Also, another question, Fostex say to use 'sound absorbants' in certain locations as shown on the plan: http://www.fostexinternational.com/d...ez_enclrev.pdf What could I use for this? |
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#110 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Bologna
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just cut the hole in the normal way, it doesn't do anything cutting in that strange way. All the small thing don't do notinhg, we're talking about millimiters.
you could use the interior of pillows. wich is made of acrilyc material or polyester. But the best thing you could do is using plywood instead of MDF. If you want to stay on cheap use the chipboard of good quality. |
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