TABAQ TL for Tangband

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Henkjan

Henkjan

Member
Joined 2006
juoiga.nl
abiedoodles said:


thanks Henkjan, is your tabaq already broken in? or you just started to listen to it, im thinking it needs hours or days of playing to break in. Or i'll just consider the W3-871S .
Click to expand...
I listened to the 315's in the Lancetta for a couple of days, nothing changed in it's benefit.

The W3-871 really improves during the first ~5 CD's, especially the highs.
 
L

loninappleton

Member
Joined 2004
JonTee said:
Hi Lon,

"My observation is on the stuffing. Doesn't such quantity muffle"

I tried the speakers without stuffing and the bass output went down to my ears. Also they were peaky sounding. Using the stuffing appeared to me to bring back the bass and smoothed out the response. I know what you mean about the stuffing "muffling" as my 1st project was the Cyburg Needles (with the W3 871's) which I originally had put to much stuffing in, and that did attenuate the sound to the point of making them sound nasally. After lightening up the stuffed front chamber the sound improved dramatically. On TABAQ I have left the top unglued (weighted down presently), so I can adjust the stuffing if necessary (I did weigh it as close as I could get to .23 lbs.).

"I have done som simulations to see if I could make a taller version of TABAQ, but has no solution yet."

Bjorn, where do the simulations show alterations in the TABAQ's performance when they are made taller, or the port raised up from the floor? Just curious. At some point I will get the software and equipment necessary, to measure these responses, however, presently measurements will be made subjectively with our older ears (wife and I) and younger family members when they visit.

In addition, the sand in the false bottom seems to be necessary, as bass response was less and more cabinet resonance was noticed when the chamber was left empty (cabinet clamped up for subjective test).

I hope to have the speakers inside (presently in my garage) today and will post some impressions.

Jon
Click to expand...


Jon, I am still playing with this idea and would build a sample first.

I've gotten a lot of satisfaction from my FE127e MLTL build.

You mention the port desing as integral. I've found (and it's just
personal preference apparently) that an exterior down firing port
gives the best bass on small drivers. So wit the false bottom to adapt to ear heigh, what dims for a round PVC or plastic port would
work in this design? From reading what I could understand of Martin King, the terminus moves no air and the dispersion pattern is radial at the terminus or horn mouth. This, to me says a port constructed on the vertical will give port frequencies in the horizontal plane. This may be why I like it. Being a rank amatuer concerning theory, I'd enjoy hearing opinions on this.

Can you give the dims for a round port?
 
N

NICKEL

Member
Joined 2005
Solve Said

This is the best-easybuilt speaker with Tangband W3-871 or
like mine W4-1320!

Excuse my ignorance here - but would putting in the larger driver mean the dimms need to be changed? For example, the front of the speaker is only 10mm wide - same as the driver.

Cheers
 
Solve

Solve

Member
Joined 2006
Nickel, i started with the W3-871 and then just enlarged the hole
to fit the W4-1320, its tight but it works.
Nothing else need to be changed.
 

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L

loninappleton

Member
Joined 2004
Solve said:


Gavin,i have the port in front and something like 40-50cm from the wall.No need for subwoofer for my taste.

Solve
Click to expand...

I am still playing with the idea of a down firing port for this (see post higher up).

If the port dims are 1.6 cm x 10cm x9 cm (from the drawing) how would that translate into a round port of 2in interior diameter for pvc pipe?

I just don't know the formulas to do this stuff. :-/

Wait -- my hole saw is 2in so the interior of the pvc is (getting out my
measure stick to measure scrap piece) ID of 5 cm.


The TABAQ would be raised up to ear height with the port firing down possibly onto a floor tile (like the Metronome.)
 
G

G

Member
Joined 2002
Bjohannesen said:
Hi Svein, I used hours of funny work with MJK software before I ended up with the design.

These 3" TB drivers do not perform if you tune the cabinet lower than the 55Hz I have done. The same goes for the 4" driver, by the way.

Bjorn
Click to expand...

Have you modeled a version that uses the FE127E?

Znom 8 ohm
Re 6.5 ohm
Le@1kHz - mH
fs 70.4 Hz
Qms 3.33
Qes 0.50
Qts 0.43
Mms 6.85 g
Cms 0.0016 mm/N
Sd 0.0067 m2
BL 4.14 N/A
Vas 9.9 ltrs
Xmax 0.67 mm peak
VC Ø 20 mm
Sensitivity
1W / 1m 91 dB
Nom. Power 45 W
Net weight 574 g

Just curious. It looks like it would be a good candidate. Obviously the cabinet dominates the driver because the W4-1320SD and the W3-315E are not really close in specs.
 
L

loninappleton

Member
Joined 2004
Gavin,

GM has modelled the MLTL for FE127e and the dims are
posted on the zillaspeak site.

I have made this design with the FE127e. I used the
downfiring port above and it is my best build to date. I have made the
BIB for 127e as well and these two single builds are being used
as an 'asymetrical pair' for my modest needs and sound levels.

The MLTL FE127 was originally built as a pair.
 
G

G

Member
Joined 2002
loninappleton said:
Gavin,

GM has modelled the MLTL for FE127e and the dims are
posted on the zillaspeak site.

I have made this design with the FE127e. I used the
downfiring port above and it is my best build to date. I have made the
BIB for 127e as well and these two single builds are being used
as an 'asymetrical pair' for my modest needs and sound levels.

The MLTL FE127 was originally built as a pair.
Click to expand...

I kind of like the slot port and I don't have the worksheets to resize the cab for a 127. I was considering building a Tabaq with the void for filling with sand like another member of the forum has but I think I would like to use the 127 in the Tabaq as I have heard that it sound substantially better than the TBs. Do you have any pics of your speakers? Are the BIB inverted?
 
L

loninappleton

Member
Joined 2004
No new posts in here for while-- I'm surprised.

Gavin,

No I have no pics. but that drawing that Jeff has at the
zillapseak site for the MLTL 127e is all you need. Build the box
and stand it up any way you like. Chamfer the speaker cutout and
lightly fill the top with some fiberfill (pillow stuffing from the fabric store.) As mentioned, my preference is to put the port on the outside
of the enclosure. One portability option I use is to build the box to size and set it atop one of those cheap screw together shelving
assemblies that are about 30 in high. Drill a hole the size of the
extended port into the top of the knock together base.

I have the TB speaks on hand to do this project (about which more below.) The FE127 is a much better speaker to build around: it can go MLTL, BIB, and prob'ly some of the newer things that Scottmoose is doing-- those spawn of frugal horn designs which look great.

On the TABAQ, I finally used my wits and found an online calculator that would give the volume of a cylinder. So 1.6cm x 9 cm x 10cm
gave me the area. I used the calculator to guestimate from the
total what the port length should be using an interior radius of 5.2
cm. This gave about 7.3 cm length for the TABAQ which I would go with. I think I have enough scraps around here to make a sample
just for grins.
 
L

loninappleton

Member
Joined 2004
Ping Bjorn

Could you repost the link with pics and dims for the TABAQ?

All I found that would load is some graphs.

I finally laid out the stock for this today.

I think making a standard monkey coffin with the port out
the bottom will fit into one of my knock together shelf rigs (hole through shelf to let the port extend).

I will make one and compare it a/b with the FE127 in the same
general configuration.


It's Spring now and time to take the fiber fill out of the windows anyway.

;-)

When I grow up I want to be Bill Fitzmaurice.
 
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