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#371 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
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Speaking of tolerances...
I have found that my woodworking skills are sketchy at best. Boxes not square... edges not meeting... sanding and more sanding... filling and more filling. Cabinet designs and wood in general seem to be very forgiving. Have you ever constructed a cabinet where a 1/16 of an inch or 2 mm. made an audible difference in the sound? What should be acceptable tolerances? JH |
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#372 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: North Texas, USA
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Not making audible differences, just making the finishing process more difficult than it already is. Experienced builders often make the pieces a bit large so that finished boxes can be trimmed with a router to get "perfect" joints.
Actual driver parameters vary over a range and room effects overwhelm any impacts of minor precision issues in box volumes or baffle effects. Nevertheless, a 1/16 inch is a very visible error, at least to an experienced cabinet maker. My tolerance is 1/32". That's the limit of adjustment accuracy of my current saw. Quote:
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I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now. |
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#373 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
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Thanks Fast,
Would like to see your shop. What I'm using is the table and miter saws in a middle school shop classroom. Not sure if maintenance or calibrations have occurred in years. But hey, at the end of the day there are no fingers on the floor! JH |
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#374 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: North Texas, USA
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My shop is my garage. Everything is portable. I retired from one job 5 years ago and moved to a different area. Gave up most of my big woodworking gear since the new place didn't have space.
I'm using a portable Porter-Cable saw which folds up and move against a wall. However, I've decided I've had enough frustration over accurate cuts. I've looked at rearranging / eliminating some things so that I can accommodate the 110v Sawstop cabinet saw. Will have less excuses when that's in the shop. Thanks for listening.
__________________
I was so much older then, I'm younger than that now. |
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#375 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Stockholm
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Could one or two of these drivers be used in the TABAQ:
FaitalPRO - Professional Loudspeakers Made in Italy I have some laying around and would like to put them to use. Appreciate all the help I can get! |
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#376 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Copenhagen
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Hi Pepe,
even without doing the simulation, I would expect these drivers to do just fine - with one driver, not two in the cabinet. Please note, you can mount the driver 5 cm higher up, if you prefer. Have fun and keep us posted. Hi from Bjorn |
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#377 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Stockholm
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Thank you Björn!
That is great news, really looking forward to see what a pair of the TABAQs sound like. I'll post my impressions when they are done. /Pepe |
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#378 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Pepe
You wont be disappointed, I built them using a 8$ driver from tang band, and Its a Great design, I use them as satellites in My little HT and I really recomend them... |
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#379 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Stockholm
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Danzz
Getting more excited about the TABAQ build after your comments. Just ordered the MDF bits, will start the building/gluing tomorrow! Will I need to chamfer the hole for the driver on the inside of the baffle? /Pepe |
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#380 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Copenhagen
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I dont do that
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