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Old 2nd November 2006, 07:06 PM   #21
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Hi Solve, glad you like it.

Are you sure yoú used enough damping material ? It is pretty well damped. 100g is a high density for this small volume. I use 200g in my TL sub, which is s much bigger cabinet with a 10" driver.

I have not experienced boomy sound, but I sure did when I tried it with Hi-Vi 3".

Hi from Bjorn
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Old 2nd November 2006, 09:44 PM   #22
VadimB is offline VadimB  United States
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Default alternative design

Hi guys!

I've recently built a designed and built a similar speaker for newer TB 3" - W3-1231SH. It was also designed using MJK's worksheets (a little older version). It is a MLTL, built from 1/2" MDF. Front, back and side pieces are 3" wide and 18.5" long. Top and bottom are 3" x 4" and glued on top of the sides. So, the inside dims are 2"x3"x18.5", and external 3"x4"x19.5".
The driver is 6" from the top inside. The port center is 9.5" from the top inside. Port ID is 0.82". The length is 2".
The speakers are designed to actually hang on the wall. I will try to attach the MJK's simulation, the actual Sound Easy measurements, done on the wall and a picture. Not sure if it can be done in one post. If not, I'll put the rest in separate posts.

VadimB
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File Type: pdf system response - w3-1231sh pipe.pdf (74.1 KB, 831 views)
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Old 2nd November 2006, 11:03 PM   #23
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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Default Re: alternative design

Quote:
Originally posted by VadimB
Hi guys!

I've recently built a designed and built a similar speaker for newer TB 3" - W3-1231SH. It was also designed using MJK's worksheets (a little older version). It is a MLTL, built from 1/2" MDF. Front, back and side pieces are 3" wide and 18.5" long. Top and bottom are 3" x 4" and glued on top of the sides. So, the inside dims are 2"x3"x18.5", and external 3"x4"x19.5".
The driver is 6" from the top inside. The port center is 9.5" from the top inside. Port ID is 0.82". The length is 2".
The speakers are designed to actually hang on the wall. I will try to attach the MJK's simulation, the actual Sound Easy measurements, done on the wall and a picture. Not sure if it can be done in one post. If not, I'll put the rest in separate posts.

VadimB
like to look at the pics. gychang
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Old 3rd November 2006, 02:11 AM   #24
VadimB is offline VadimB  United States
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Default alternative design

Sorry,

I could not figure out the way to shrink my pictures to the required 100x100 size, so lets try this:


Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

VadimB
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Old 5th November 2006, 07:04 PM   #25
Solve is offline Solve  Sweden
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I got my W4-1320SA and smacked them in.
What could i say?
Woooaahhh!
There the bottom comes that i want!!
Sounds very good!

Solve
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Old 8th November 2006, 09:25 AM   #26
Solve is offline Solve  Sweden
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First of all, i dont have much experiance of measuring speakers
but i did an very basic try.
Im using an uncalibrated Panasonic WM-61A with my computer
and an StValue 24bit soundcard(Envy24 chip).
Software Tombstone running an sweep 20-20khz with

W4-1320SAwith BSC 0,8mH+3,9ohm.

First one is with modded T-amp.
Red line is port.
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File Type: jpg w4-1320sa t-amp.jpg (65.1 KB, 1696 views)
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Old 8th November 2006, 09:37 AM   #27
Solve is offline Solve  Sweden
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This one is with my Marantz PM-30.
There i can see that nasty peak at 7khz.
Cant see it in T-amp?
Why?
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File Type: jpg w4-1320sa marantz.jpg (96.4 KB, 1572 views)
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Old 8th November 2006, 09:39 AM   #28
Solve is offline Solve  Sweden
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This is T-amp,1 meter. centered at cone.
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Old 8th November 2006, 01:22 PM   #29
VadimB is offline VadimB  United States
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Default Measurements

Solve,

In your first measurement with T-amp, there is a message at the left bottom corner of the screen: "Input overloaded". That's, probably, what is responsible for a ruller-flat curve at 0dB. Your later data do not have this message, so they are much more realistic. If the first one was a near-field measurement, just lower the volume until the curve is lower than 0dB and has some wiggles. You can only trust near-field up to, maybe, 1kHz at the most. Also, if you want to add this data to the port output, do not forget to scale the port data by the ratio of port diamenter to driver diameter squared. Than you can splice that to the 1 meter data. Still, this will not account for difraction effects (baffle step).
The single best book on how to measure speakers properly is Joe DiAppolito's "Testing Loudspeakers", available from Audio Express.

VadimB
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Old 8th November 2006, 04:06 PM   #30
Solve is offline Solve  Sweden
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You have an good eye VadimB!
Didnt see that.In tombstone you get an pop up screen that say the same so i trusted that...
But you are right, it was to good!
Now we see that ugly 7khz peak.
How do i notch that?

"Also, if you want to add this data to the port output, do not forget to scale the port data by the ratio of port diamenter to driver diameter squared."

How do i do that?
Now i just moved the mic without changing the volume.
Think i have to get that book.

Solve
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