This driver falls off rather fast after 10 khz but has usable power levels if you are not tweeter fanatic and don't mind the muted highs. It is quite nice below 10 khz though. If it went at least to 14 or 15 khz that would not be as bad as much can still be heard treble wise if that were the case. You can easily test if the high end is sufficient for your taste by listening to them without a tabaq box - just mounted open baffle into a piece of large cardboard to get some semblance of bass, and as the highs don't require an enclosure. If it sounds lacking in the treble department, it will only get worse when the bass end is strengthened with the tabaq enclosure.
Help with Pioneer TS-E1076 car drivers
Please, someone with free time and willing to help to make calculations for this project with these car drivers with measured parameters:
Driver: Pioneer TS-E1076_1
Compliance (Vas) 1.065 liters
Resonance (Fs) 131.515 Hz
Mechanical Q (Qms) 5.990
Electrical Q (Qes) 1.089
Total Q (Qts) 0.922
DC Resistance (Re) 3.187 Ohms
Piston Area (SD**2) 50.000 sq cm
Driver: Pioneer TS-E1076_2
Compliance (Vas) 1.055 liters
Resonance (Fs) 131.512 Hz
Mechanical Q (Qms) 6.000
Electrical Q (Qes) 1.087
Total Q (Qts) 0.920
DC Resistance (Re) 3.198 Ohms
Piston Area (SD**2) 50.000 sq cm
avtozvuk.com - in Russian
TS-E1076 (Archived) - Pioneer UK
Please, someone with free time and willing to help to make calculations for this project with these car drivers with measured parameters:
Driver: Pioneer TS-E1076_1
Compliance (Vas) 1.065 liters
Resonance (Fs) 131.515 Hz
Mechanical Q (Qms) 5.990
Electrical Q (Qes) 1.089
Total Q (Qts) 0.922
DC Resistance (Re) 3.187 Ohms
Piston Area (SD**2) 50.000 sq cm
Driver: Pioneer TS-E1076_2
Compliance (Vas) 1.055 liters
Resonance (Fs) 131.512 Hz
Mechanical Q (Qms) 6.000
Electrical Q (Qes) 1.087
Total Q (Qts) 0.920
DC Resistance (Re) 3.198 Ohms
Piston Area (SD**2) 50.000 sq cm
avtozvuk.com - in Russian
TS-E1076 (Archived) - Pioneer UK
Accidental MLTL Technique
Dzwer,
In situations where you cannot get a full sim of your driver with a MLTL, but would like something that may work, try this. It has worked for me on two occasions already and maybe I was lucky... I call it the "Accidental MLTL" technique.
Use WinISD bass reflex software (free) and plug in your driver's T/S params and design a vented bass reflex speaker enclosure using the default optimal case. That will give you the volume of the box and the vent cross sectional area and length.
Now choose a maximum length you are willing to have based on practical size constraints, typically 30 inches to 40 inches long. This will correspond to a quarter wave length that is probably higher than the tuning freq of the bass reflex design that came out of WinISD (circa 60 to 75 Hz).
Calculate the cross sectional area (csa) of the transmission line using volume from WinISD and the length you set. If the csa is bigger than you prefer, you can go off the optimal case by going back to WinISD and adjusting the box volume manually to a smaller value and tweaking the frequency even. You can play with the vent to get it to a diam and length you like. Typically, I do this because the default vent is not very practical. Then use new box volume and vent dimensions to calculate the new csa based in length of the line again.
Now build the enclosure with the csa and length and put a vent with dimensions from WinISD at the distal end. On the closed end, measure 1/3 of distance down and make cutout for driver and mount it there. Put polyfill stuffing from closed end to about half to 2/3 of the way down the line. Adjust this to taste, less stuffing gets more boomy bass. More stuffing gets tighter bass at expense of amplitude. I have found that the position of the driver need not be exactly at 2/3 and indeed can even be at the closed end.
Doing this approach will guarantee that at worst, the speaker will perform as a bass reflex optimized for volume and vent size. But if physics of a MLTL and quarter wave theory kick in, you will end up with a speaker that has deeper bass extension than predicted by WinISD. The speakers that I have built following this recipe have measured very well when I look at what is coming from the bass port - typically, I get the low frequency extended or 'pulled down' by an additional 15 Hz from the plain bass reflex prediction. The speakers also sound great - very balanced when the bass port output integrates with the direct radiation from the driver.
If you want to experiment without investing too much in wood, use foam core to build quick and dirty speaker. Even cardboard can be used as a test speaker for this.
Good luck.
Dzwer,
In situations where you cannot get a full sim of your driver with a MLTL, but would like something that may work, try this. It has worked for me on two occasions already and maybe I was lucky... I call it the "Accidental MLTL" technique.
Use WinISD bass reflex software (free) and plug in your driver's T/S params and design a vented bass reflex speaker enclosure using the default optimal case. That will give you the volume of the box and the vent cross sectional area and length.
Now choose a maximum length you are willing to have based on practical size constraints, typically 30 inches to 40 inches long. This will correspond to a quarter wave length that is probably higher than the tuning freq of the bass reflex design that came out of WinISD (circa 60 to 75 Hz).
Calculate the cross sectional area (csa) of the transmission line using volume from WinISD and the length you set. If the csa is bigger than you prefer, you can go off the optimal case by going back to WinISD and adjusting the box volume manually to a smaller value and tweaking the frequency even. You can play with the vent to get it to a diam and length you like. Typically, I do this because the default vent is not very practical. Then use new box volume and vent dimensions to calculate the new csa based in length of the line again.
Now build the enclosure with the csa and length and put a vent with dimensions from WinISD at the distal end. On the closed end, measure 1/3 of distance down and make cutout for driver and mount it there. Put polyfill stuffing from closed end to about half to 2/3 of the way down the line. Adjust this to taste, less stuffing gets more boomy bass. More stuffing gets tighter bass at expense of amplitude. I have found that the position of the driver need not be exactly at 2/3 and indeed can even be at the closed end.
Doing this approach will guarantee that at worst, the speaker will perform as a bass reflex optimized for volume and vent size. But if physics of a MLTL and quarter wave theory kick in, you will end up with a speaker that has deeper bass extension than predicted by WinISD. The speakers that I have built following this recipe have measured very well when I look at what is coming from the bass port - typically, I get the low frequency extended or 'pulled down' by an additional 15 Hz from the plain bass reflex prediction. The speakers also sound great - very balanced when the bass port output integrates with the direct radiation from the driver.
If you want to experiment without investing too much in wood, use foam core to build quick and dirty speaker. Even cardboard can be used as a test speaker for this.
Good luck.
Last edited:
Driver placed too low?
Hi everyone!
I've almost finished my first pair of TABAQs, using the W3-881SI driver. I'm wondering if I got something wrong, or if I've just had too high expectations, because my initial impression was that the speakers produced a bit less bass than expected, the bass sounding a bit undefined, as well as the overall sound being a bit harsh and tiring to listen to.
I know I have placed the driver a bit lower than specified in the drawings by mistake, it sits 30cm down the baffle rather than the specified 26. Would the 4 cm difference impact the sound?
Also, I have listened to them with the side clamped on, not yet glued, so I'm wondering if I get an incorrect impression if the cabinet is not 100% air-tight where it's supposed to be?
I've used the recommended BSC (3,9 ohm and 1.0 mH) and stuffed the upper 2/3 of the cabinet.
Hi everyone!
I've almost finished my first pair of TABAQs, using the W3-881SI driver. I'm wondering if I got something wrong, or if I've just had too high expectations, because my initial impression was that the speakers produced a bit less bass than expected, the bass sounding a bit undefined, as well as the overall sound being a bit harsh and tiring to listen to.
I know I have placed the driver a bit lower than specified in the drawings by mistake, it sits 30cm down the baffle rather than the specified 26. Would the 4 cm difference impact the sound?
Also, I have listened to them with the side clamped on, not yet glued, so I'm wondering if I get an incorrect impression if the cabinet is not 100% air-tight where it's supposed to be?
I've used the recommended BSC (3,9 ohm and 1.0 mH) and stuffed the upper 2/3 of the cabinet.
It makes a huge difference to be air tight. A pin hole leak can kill the bass. The position of the driver will probably not impact the bass but will affect the smoothness of the response over the frequency range. Also, over stuffing can kill the bass, try reducing density of stuffing and also any stuffing below the driver and between the vent reduces the bass. Adjustment of stuffing often is the key.
Ok. Is the 4 cm enough to do much damage do you think? Im debating whether to make a new baffle to correct the positioning or not...
Am i correct in assuming that by taking care of the bass the upper frequencies would probably sound better as well? Seeing as there would then be a better balance between the lows and highs?
Thanks for your help
You don't really mean 100% air tight do you? The line has a vent at the termination. The box wants to be air tight above the terminus but not air tight as in a sealed alignment. Not trying to insult, just checking that you haven't forgotten the vent.
Correct
I'll experiment a bit with the stuffing and cross my fingers that finishing the cabinet will help as well. Thanks for your help guys!
JefffromMN,
You might want to try using the AMLTL method to see how close the existing TABAQ is for the RS100. Basically use WinISD with volume given by TABAQ and see how vent in TABAQ matches up. If it does, chances are likely that it will work well. TABAQ is 20 square in cross section x 30.7 in long with 2.5 square in cross section vent x 3.7 in long.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/231951-accidental-mltl-technique.html
You might want to try using the AMLTL method to see how close the existing TABAQ is for the RS100. Basically use WinISD with volume given by TABAQ and see how vent in TABAQ matches up. If it does, chances are likely that it will work well. TABAQ is 20 square in cross section x 30.7 in long with 2.5 square in cross section vent x 3.7 in long.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/231951-accidental-mltl-technique.html