Hi again, nice to hear about adjustments to TABAQ. and your experice.
The driver could be moved further down, which I simmed way bak. I still have ny original boxes, shined up with black glass and black acrlyl. I hoved the driver down by modifyting the front baffle.
Tahe a look at the docuemnt enclosed about the design i case you have not seen it already 😀
I use 50 gram stuffing for my 4 inch driver.
Regards
Bjørn
The driver could be moved further down, which I simmed way bak. I still have ny original boxes, shined up with black glass and black acrlyl. I hoved the driver down by modifyting the front baffle.
Tahe a look at the docuemnt enclosed about the design i case you have not seen it already 😀
I use 50 gram stuffing for my 4 inch driver.
Regards
Bjørn
Note, for the record, I wasn't stating that what I (re)built was a second or new generation TABAQ, it was MY second generation based on the earlier "Build it for cheap from finished shelving with almost no tools" post on the same blog. Also of note the speakers, with the TB1320SIF drivers are still going great. And no, we still can't really hear the difference between the original (actually I guess Bjorn's second take) port and my modified horn-mouth version, also in some previous posts on that blog.
We still use them frequently, as shown in the photo, on the floor, for listening, or put up on the hearth with the subwoofer and video display turned on for more home-theatre like uses.
We still use them frequently, as shown in the photo, on the floor, for listening, or put up on the hearth with the subwoofer and video display turned on for more home-theatre like uses.
@twocent: Thanks for your kind comment,
Regarding the shelving circuit, the purpose was to, of course, handle the baffle step but also the reduced off-axis radiation of high frequencies that always occur in full range drivers larger than 2 inches. The idea was to insert a capacitor to let the high register play more loudly. That will augment the percieved "sound power curve" ie the summed sound the speaker produces in all angles. By listening ca 15 degrees off axis you get an even and more natural response of the high frequencies at the listening position. This is of course also dependent on your listening room, -reflective surfaces, curtains, rugs etc.
The values för the circiut were chosen by trial but also by using Vitiux simulation (freeware).
Regarding the shelving circuit, the purpose was to, of course, handle the baffle step but also the reduced off-axis radiation of high frequencies that always occur in full range drivers larger than 2 inches. The idea was to insert a capacitor to let the high register play more loudly. That will augment the percieved "sound power curve" ie the summed sound the speaker produces in all angles. By listening ca 15 degrees off axis you get an even and more natural response of the high frequencies at the listening position. This is of course also dependent on your listening room, -reflective surfaces, curtains, rugs etc.
The values för the circiut were chosen by trial but also by using Vitiux simulation (freeware).
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Thanks for your comment Björn!
Just for trivia, in order to get the stuffing to stay in place in the upper part of the box, I put some metal wire 2/3 down the box as a type of "grid" so that the stuffing stayed in place.
Hi! im back in the best and greatest forum thread ever made!
i have built and listened to the tabaqs for over 10yrs now. so thank you Bjørn
im ready for a new winter project here in Norway. and i would like to use the tabaq consept to a new level, in my head i have a idea of putting a subwoofer in to the tabaq but i want to have some input from you guys!
I need help with designing a speaker enclosure for my living room.
Under is a list of the drivers i have available
i have a pair of Patos Basic 401 MK1, they sound very nice in this room (a bit bass heavy) with a Rotel RA-11 Amplifier
i have built and listened to the tabaqs for over 10yrs now. so thank you Bjørn
im ready for a new winter project here in Norway. and i would like to use the tabaq consept to a new level, in my head i have a idea of putting a subwoofer in to the tabaq but i want to have some input from you guys!
I need help with designing a speaker enclosure for my living room.
Under is a list of the drivers i have available
- Amp: Lyngdorf TDAI 1120: SPECS
- Tangband W5-1183SMF SPECS
- Tangband W4-1320SJ SPECS
- Monacor SPX-32m SPECS
- TEBM65C20F-8 Balanced Mode Radiator SPECS
i have a pair of Patos Basic 401 MK1, they sound very nice in this room (a bit bass heavy) with a Rotel RA-11 Amplifier
Attachments
So, more like « TABAQ inspired », or more precisely, a MLTL WAW.
I have done a TABAQ with the W4-1052SD. It sounded great, but keep in mind that what you see in the specs and the real world might be very different. TB has a tendency of doctoring their specs a bit. So, while it worked fine, it really neede two notches to tame some nasty peaks and make it really enjoyable. If you have EQ, then it’s even easier.
I have also extrapolated the TABAQ to use a SBA SB15SFCR39, which is an oval woofer, 5x8, and works really well in a MLTL. I mounted it vertically so it made a nice slim column. On top, i placed a small full range sealed in a sports cone, like X does with his builds. Your choice, but I would stay away from TB, unless you plan to cross them actively. If going passive, I’d pick a more behaved FR, like the SB65, SB10, 10F, B80, TC9, …. Since you already have support below, try to stay small for the FR to keep the beaming at a minimum.
I have done a TABAQ with the W4-1052SD. It sounded great, but keep in mind that what you see in the specs and the real world might be very different. TB has a tendency of doctoring their specs a bit. So, while it worked fine, it really neede two notches to tame some nasty peaks and make it really enjoyable. If you have EQ, then it’s even easier.
I have also extrapolated the TABAQ to use a SBA SB15SFCR39, which is an oval woofer, 5x8, and works really well in a MLTL. I mounted it vertically so it made a nice slim column. On top, i placed a small full range sealed in a sports cone, like X does with his builds. Your choice, but I would stay away from TB, unless you plan to cross them actively. If going passive, I’d pick a more behaved FR, like the SB65, SB10, 10F, B80, TC9, …. Since you already have support below, try to stay small for the FR to keep the beaming at a minimum.
Hi all. First post here.
I've purchased a pair of Mark Audio CHR-70 s and aim to build a TABAQ with them. Bjorn's sim says to
If I were to make the front panel of the case 12.4cms (increase by 2.4cms) and reduce the depth by 2.4cms to keep the volume same to accommodate this driver, what adjustments would I need to make to the port? Since the port width will be incleased. Do I compensate by reducing the height of the port and what about the length of the piece to make the port since there will be less depth now.
Thank you
I've purchased a pair of Mark Audio CHR-70 s and aim to build a TABAQ with them. Bjorn's sim says to
If I were to make the front panel of the case 12.4cms (increase by 2.4cms) and reduce the depth by 2.4cms to keep the volume same to accommodate this driver, what adjustments would I need to make to the port? Since the port width will be incleased. Do I compensate by reducing the height of the port and what about the length of the piece to make the port since there will be less depth now.
Thank you
I'll go out on a limb with a wild guess that the port "volume" should be the same. This is considering it's a slug of air moving back and forth with a mass. This thought breaks down of course if you make it a mile wide and 1mm tall, but for relatively small dimensional changes one would think it would hold.
Thank you jjasniew!
I think what I need to do to accommodate the driver is to increase the width of the front panel by 4mm to make sure the inner part of the frame doesn't chaff the cabinet. So I will increase this by 1cm/10mm. Also will make the front panel 13.4cm in width total (keeping in mind 12mm panels) so that the 12.4 cm frame can fit in it easily. Will decrease the depth of the box by 12mm and this should give me almost he same internal volume.
I think what I need to do to accommodate the driver is to increase the width of the front panel by 4mm to make sure the inner part of the frame doesn't chaff the cabinet. So I will increase this by 1cm/10mm. Also will make the front panel 13.4cm in width total (keeping in mind 12mm panels) so that the 12.4 cm frame can fit in it easily. Will decrease the depth of the box by 12mm and this should give me almost he same internal volume.
Hi.
Just curious if anyone has used a folded Tabaq (3" driver) or folded Micro Tabaq (2") as a center channel speaker? I'm thinking of building 3 (maybe 2 standard for L-R and 1 folded for Center) for use in a 3.1 home theater system (voxel subwoofer) for a smaller room.
If so, did you have the port on the front baffle or on top (like Bjorn shows) which would be the side if the speaker was placed horizontally?
How did it work out?
Thanks,
David
Just curious if anyone has used a folded Tabaq (3" driver) or folded Micro Tabaq (2") as a center channel speaker? I'm thinking of building 3 (maybe 2 standard for L-R and 1 folded for Center) for use in a 3.1 home theater system (voxel subwoofer) for a smaller room.
If so, did you have the port on the front baffle or on top (like Bjorn shows) which would be the side if the speaker was placed horizontally?
How did it work out?
Thanks,
David
Would love to see a simulation with something like the CHN-110 from MarkAudio https://www.markaudio.com/online_shop/ch/chn-110-2/
Unless this driver requires like a Tabaq XXXL
Unless this driver requires like a Tabaq XXXL
Thanks for your response, Bjorn. It's awesome that you continue to support the Tabaq this way!
Having the driver centered would definitely be more visually appealing with the speaker on it's side. As for the vent, if it's vented out the top as in your version, which becomes the side, how much room is needed for the vent? I don't plan to put it inside a stand or enclosure, but if I do, how much would that affect the sound given the vent location? Would it be better on the front/baffle?
Thanks.
That's roughly a 5" driver, Qts~ 0.4, should work in a TABAQ large.
But it's not a very linear driver, it's got peaks and dips of 10dBs all over the place, according to their data sheet.