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Pavel Znamenacek
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Jan 2017
Few questions to the construction of Tabaq

Hello everyone,

Should I have a few questions to the construction of Tabaq:
1. I studied the modified plan Tabaqat from Bjørn, and I tried to draw it here – option „A“. I hope it's right. On this plan is also the second option "B" with a different shape of port. The port is of course still the same length (9.7 cm), but it is headed down. This allows the driver to move higher (closer to ears). Is this second variant „B“ better than the first „A“?

2. Bjørn told me, that sharp edge on a corner cabinet is not good, but unfortunately I did not understand, if I may move side wall enclosure in front of the front wall (about 3-4 mm), if the corners are rounded as shown here.

3. How a lot use of wool? Do i understand correctly that into the whole area of the upper 2/3 of the cabinet will give a total 100 g of wool? If Bjørn did this already calculated, it makes sense to try a different quantity?

Bye Pavel
Attached Images
 Tabaq variants.png (61.0 KB, 336 views) Front side design of corner.png (701.7 KB, 333 views)

 24th February 2017, 01:26 AM #1652 Jerms   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: High Wycombe, Bucks, UK. 1. Your solution is one option to raise the level of the driver slightly.... Another way would be to angle the cabinet backwards slightly whilst including a longer rear foot-print. 2. There is a thing called baffle step diffraction. This happens around the frequencies where the wavelength approaches that of the distance from the driver to the edge of the cabinet. Essentially, a sharp edge angle results in a more violent transition zone with greater magnitude. A large radius edge to the cabinet (as large as practical), eases the transition allowing it to be dealt with more easily by electronics or DSP. 3. Dacron or a blend of synthetic fibres with wool or cotton is the usual cabinet stuffing or wadding material. It's the cheapest reasonable option. Either "van insulation" or specialist audio products like MDM2 or Sonofil. Another place to avoid sharp edges is the driver mounting area. As it's a full range driver, it should be recessed so the front plate is flush with the front face of the baffle. HTH J.
eljoantonyn
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Jan 2014
Quote:
 Originally Posted by eljoantonyn SO, to measure the effect of polyfill on the SPL, I did a test. I generated test tones using my PC (Xonar DX soundcard) and fed it to the TABAQ left channel through my Yamaha AS500 amp. The SPL measurement was done with my iPhone placed at 50cm from the driver. Here is the result but I don't know how to analyse it
Adding more polyfill muffles higher frequencies, right ?

So, should I just fill both speaker cabinets with 100gm of polyfill and call it a day ?

Edit:
By the way, I made a mistake in cutting the MDF panel and now the speaker is placed 220 mm from the inside of the top panel. Should I correct it to 203 mm ?

Last edited by eljoantonyn; 24th February 2017 at 05:50 AM.

 24th February 2017, 05:54 AM #1654 eljoantonyn   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jan 2014 Subjectively, the speakers sound very good. The bass quantity is low but the quality is very good ! Its hard to believe a tiny 3" driver can produce this kind of bass !! Amazing work Bjorn ! Its a wonderful design...hats off
 24th February 2017, 09:20 AM #1655 Bjohannesen   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Copenhagen Hi Pavel 1. Your design A or B: Go for B, you have already stated the benefit. General about stuffing: The "perfect" stuffing is simulated to be 100 gram. However, do your own final adjustments by ear if you like. Hi Bjørn __________________ http://www.kvart-bolge.com/
 24th February 2017, 09:35 AM #1656 eljoantonyn   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jan 2014 What about my mistakes? The length of the speaker cabinet is more by 17mm. Also the driver is placed 17 mm shallower than it is necessary!! Should I correct it ?
Jerms
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: High Wycombe, Bucks, UK.
Quote:
 Originally Posted by eljoantonyn What about my mistakes? The length of the speaker cabinet is more by 17mm. Also the driver is placed 17 mm shallower than it is necessary!! Should I correct it ?
It's not going to make very much of a difference. Though if you want to get it closer to the defined model, 15mm or 18mm plate could be installed inside the top cap..... Assuming it's not all glued around 4 sides. Otherwise "Mr saw" would be required to start the adjustment.

eljoantonyn
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Jan 2014
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Jerms It's not going to make very much of a difference. Though if you want to get it closer to the defined model, 15mm or 18mm plate could be installed inside the top cap..... Assuming it's not all glued around 4 sides. Otherwise "Mr saw" would be required to start the adjustment.
Never been a big fan of Mr Saw. So, I will go the 17mm mdf gluing inside the top cap route 😄

Pavel Znamenacek
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Jan 2017
sorry I still don´t understand

Quote:
 Originally Posted by Jerms 1. Your solution is one option to raise the level of the driver slightly.... Another way would be to angle the cabinet backwards slightly whilst including a longer rear foot-print. 2. There is a thing called baffle step diffraction. This happens around the frequencies where the wavelength approaches that of the distance from the driver to the edge of the cabinet. Essentially, a sharp edge angle results in a more violent transition zone with greater magnitude. A large radius edge to the cabinet (as large as practical), eases the transition allowing it to be dealt with more easily by electronics or DSP. HTH J.

Hi Jerms,

Thanks for your answers, but unfortunately I still do not understand the item 2.
Can I make a side wall so as in the picture above? If so, it will be noticeable deterioration in sound or insignificant?

Thanks Pavel

 25th February 2017, 12:09 AM #1660 Pavel Znamenacek   diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jan 2017 Hi Bjørn, thank You very much Bye Pavel

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