surgery for the patient?
should I replace dust cap to improve the sound before installation into the cabinet?
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/1354-surgery/1354-surgery.html
thanks,
gychang
should I replace dust cap to improve the sound before installation into the cabinet?
http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FAL/1354-surgery/1354-surgery.html
thanks,
gychang
Don't remove the dust cap unless you plan on installing a phase plug. The phase plugs on my Radio Shack 1197's really improved the sound quite a bit, but I'd be reluctant to just open them up without a phase plug. The link that you provided is, in fact, how to remove the dust cap. but is only the first step. At the bottom is the link to how to install phase plugs.
The Planet 10 Phase Plug is a quality product that can actually improve the sound of your system and is probably one of the greatest "Bang for the Buck" improvements you'll ever make in your system.
Best Regards,
TerryO
BTW: I know Dave, but the plugs were purchased at the retail price. I'm just a very satisfied customer.
The Planet 10 Phase Plug is a quality product that can actually improve the sound of your system and is probably one of the greatest "Bang for the Buck" improvements you'll ever make in your system.
Best Regards,
TerryO
BTW: I know Dave, but the plugs were purchased at the retail price. I'm just a very satisfied customer.
Re: how to stuff it...
You need about 1/2 lb of polyfill. You can either weigh it out on a food scale or estimate based on the size of the polyfill package. Comb it out and distribute it as per the drawing. To hold the polyfill in place, you might consider wrapping it in a layer of cheese cloth.
Bob
gychang said:
You need about 1/2 lb of polyfill. You can either weigh it out on a food scale or estimate based on the size of the polyfill package. Comb it out and distribute it as per the drawing. To hold the polyfill in place, you might consider wrapping it in a layer of cheese cloth.
Bob
Re: Re: Re: how to stuff it...
If you are doing the folded pipe, the placement is the same -- the narrow side.
Bob
gychang said:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If you are doing the folded pipe, the placement is the same -- the narrow side.
Bob
Dear Bob,
I am also very interested in your straight pipe design and intend to build one. If I am going to use 6.5inch Fostex driver, could you recommend any model e.g. Fe16??? which will be best suitable for your design. What dimension change should I made for using a different driver.
Thank you very much
I am also very interested in your straight pipe design and intend to build one. If I am going to use 6.5inch Fostex driver, could you recommend any model e.g. Fe16??? which will be best suitable for your design. What dimension change should I made for using a different driver.
Thank you very much
Bob, put me straight on this one, but of the 6 1/2in Fostex units, the 167 is likely to be the best bet. However, I reckon you'll be pushing it as Vas is still a bit high for the Straight Pipe's Vb IMO, so bass will probably be limited. An (almost) straight swap for the defunct RS 40-1354 is the Monacor SPH-60X, which is an amazing little driver and should drop in, no mods needed.
FWIW, if you want a TQWT for the 6 1/2in drivers, probably best to use Martin King's Project 2 ML TQWT. This is my standard recommendation to anyone who wants this sort of enclosure and larger than 5in drivers, just as the straight pipe is my usual suggestion for people who want an ML TQWT for smaller drivers.
The driver can be mounted on any face BTW -it doesn't have to be on the trapezoidal face as Martin did. It's larger, but has enough Vb to get you to the mid 30Hz regions with the 167 or, if your room is small, the FF165K (which needs a minor vent mod). Looks fantastic -I've built 4 pairs of these. The last had pippy Persian yew veneer with 3 coats of danish oil mixed 75 / 25 with lemon oil. Looked fantastic. Currently in the living room of an opera-singer friend of mine who won't give them back.
Best
Scott
FWIW, if you want a TQWT for the 6 1/2in drivers, probably best to use Martin King's Project 2 ML TQWT. This is my standard recommendation to anyone who wants this sort of enclosure and larger than 5in drivers, just as the straight pipe is my usual suggestion for people who want an ML TQWT for smaller drivers.
The driver can be mounted on any face BTW -it doesn't have to be on the trapezoidal face as Martin did. It's larger, but has enough Vb to get you to the mid 30Hz regions with the 167 or, if your room is small, the FF165K (which needs a minor vent mod). Looks fantastic -I've built 4 pairs of these. The last had pippy Persian yew veneer with 3 coats of danish oil mixed 75 / 25 with lemon oil. Looked fantastic. Currently in the living room of an opera-singer friend of mine who won't give them back.
Best
Scott
Scottmoose said:
Indeed. The FE167E is the correct choice for an MLTL, and the "Straight Pipe" is way too small for it. Martin King's original MLTL, My folded version thereof , or best of all my FT-1600 would work for this driver.
The FE127E does work in the "Straight Pipe", although it won't produce much SPL.
Bob
http://www.zillaspeak.com/fostex127eStraightPipe.asp
I've got a pair and they sound very good IMO... tho i plan to use the 127e's in a much smaller cab soon... pics to come.
I was considering the 167e as replacements in these Straight Pipes... tho i misread the internal dims and built an 8" wide (internal) cab... still works nicely tho.
Peace,
Godzilla
I've got a pair and they sound very good IMO... tho i plan to use the 127e's in a much smaller cab soon... pics to come.
I was considering the 167e as replacements in these Straight Pipes... tho i misread the internal dims and built an 8" wide (internal) cab... still works nicely tho.
Peace,
Godzilla
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