thoburnse40 said:
I can't find them?
The dotMac server on which most of Dave's plans are stored has been off 'n on over the past day or so.
If you're in a hurry, you can probably PM or e-mail Dave for direct copies of the plans - but the server might well be back up before he can reply to all such requests.
In addition to a substantial re-write of his websites, he's in the middle of a kitchen reno right now.
Re: What in Gods name is Puzzlecoat???
Also known as Modge Podge - a water soluble PVA based paint-on coating for craft work (decoupage, permanently sealing jig-saw puzzles, etc) . I think he waters it down at least 50% - it's quite easily applied on with artists brushes.
Along with "Duct Seal" (HVAC sealing putting), one of Dave's long-time (over 25yrs) favorite tweaks.
Phil Townsend said:
Also known as Modge Podge - a water soluble PVA based paint-on coating for craft work (decoupage, permanently sealing jig-saw puzzles, etc) . I think he waters it down at least 50% - it's quite easily applied on with artists brushes.
Along with "Duct Seal" (HVAC sealing putting), one of Dave's long-time (over 25yrs) favorite tweaks.
chrisb said:
The site is being updated to take advantage of new features in Leopard (my advise -- if you have misson critical work to do on your mac hold back till 10.5.1 comes out, and the ap makers have a chance to patch their sw if it is breaking)
dave
PS: i just did a minor text edit to the plans and was able to upload and download them.
Re: Re: What in Gods name is Puzzlecoat???
I've never quantized the dilution. Rarely is it that much thou... and it is depenenton how "thick" it is when you get it. It should be diluted until it is fairly runny, but still have a bit of "syrupness" to it. (you like those technical terms?)
dave
chrisb said:
I've never quantized the dilution. Rarely is it that much thou... and it is depenenton how "thick" it is when you get it. It should be diluted until it is fairly runny, but still have a bit of "syrupness" to it. (you like those technical terms?)
dave
I was pretty intimidated to apply puzzel coat to my fe126 drivers fearing that I would screw up, and I did in a small way and it worked out just fine. I did not dilute it, it was really runny right out of the bottle but I probably should have cut it with a little bit of water. I put on the first coat as thin as I could using a cheap brush, and the next day I put another thin coat on without being so carefull and they sound great, but still putting it on thin.
They need more stuffing in the chamber than before. When I had that amount of stuffing before applying puzzelcoat the sound became dead, now it just sounds better with way less shout. I can listen to Ozzy Osbourne and Smashing Pumkins quite loudly now which makes me happy.
If I was more patient I would have made tweaks one step at a time to see what difference each made, but I damped the rear basket with duct seal and applied the puzzelcoat at the same time.
I learned during this that after bending wire around the terminals and unbending to take the drivers out a couple of times the wire loses it's integrity and makes the sound way too bright. Or it could have been a bad seal between driver and enclosure wich I fixed by using duct seal where that little gasket would usually go, making sure it is sealed very well now. I installed t-nuts wrong and put them in the front so there is a small gap due to the metal protruding, which I though I fixed with that black stuff used for windows. I will fix this problem when I build my next pair of speakers, currently building BIB's tuned to 60hz. Again, if I was patient I would have done them seperatly but did them both at the same time and the problem was fixed.
Ed Robnson
They need more stuffing in the chamber than before. When I had that amount of stuffing before applying puzzelcoat the sound became dead, now it just sounds better with way less shout. I can listen to Ozzy Osbourne and Smashing Pumkins quite loudly now which makes me happy.
If I was more patient I would have made tweaks one step at a time to see what difference each made, but I damped the rear basket with duct seal and applied the puzzelcoat at the same time.
I learned during this that after bending wire around the terminals and unbending to take the drivers out a couple of times the wire loses it's integrity and makes the sound way too bright. Or it could have been a bad seal between driver and enclosure wich I fixed by using duct seal where that little gasket would usually go, making sure it is sealed very well now. I installed t-nuts wrong and put them in the front so there is a small gap due to the metal protruding, which I though I fixed with that black stuff used for windows. I will fix this problem when I build my next pair of speakers, currently building BIB's tuned to 60hz. Again, if I was patient I would have done them seperatly but did them both at the same time and the problem was fixed.
Ed Robnson
germpod said:
Ed - I'm also a big fan of machine screws for mounting drivers you might need to re & re a few times, but pardon the suggestion - have you considered threaded insert fittings rather than T-nuts? They (TIF) take a bit more time to install,(from either the front or rear side) but have much higher surface contact in the material core and holding strength than T-nuts.
I've never had one work loose or spin, which is certainly not the case with T-nuts - a buddy of mine had one spin loose on the solid wood baffle of a pair Cain & Cain Abbeys. It was a 3-handed operation to safely get it out and tricky to epoxy glue back in place
I'm almost ready to cut wood
I think the Harvey is the way to go for my onsey FE127e build. Then I can compare it with the BIB.
Any last words on measures or anything?
My last print out of the measurements is from Jan 3 2007.
One thing that pushed me toward this one is the small baffle area for the driver. If I screw up with the hole saw, not much damage done because I can precut a few extra blanks. Also it is a good visual match for the BIB I have.
The one measure that I don't see given is driver CL (centerline) to base. I'm interpretting this as 30 inches (half of 60) so maybe a 9" false bottom. I'm thinking that I may put a false base on it to get the driver to ear height.
Also wondering about a few of the measurements and angles for the compression chamber (CC).
I think the Harvey is the way to go for my onsey FE127e build. Then I can compare it with the BIB.
Any last words on measures or anything?
My last print out of the measurements is from Jan 3 2007.
One thing that pushed me toward this one is the small baffle area for the driver. If I screw up with the hole saw, not much damage done because I can precut a few extra blanks. Also it is a good visual match for the BIB I have.
The one measure that I don't see given is driver CL (centerline) to base. I'm interpretting this as 30 inches (half of 60) so maybe a 9" false bottom. I'm thinking that I may put a false base on it to get the driver to ear height.
Also wondering about a few of the measurements and angles for the compression chamber (CC).
Not sure if this is the right place to post, if so let me know...
Love the idea of no crossovers in the midrange, so I'm looking at building 5 Bruces for music and home theater.
The plan is also to add an infinite baffle sub to take the LF load of the fostex drivers. My theory is that the the smooth LF response of the the Bruce should integrate nicely with the sub and that using 5 identical speakers should make surround well integrated also.
Additionally, there is some unused space behind the walls so I am looking at mounting the front 3 at least as indicated in the attachment.
Initially at least, I would be using a relatively cheap Onkyo HT amp...
Does anyone have any thoughts on this arrangement?
DB
Love the idea of no crossovers in the midrange, so I'm looking at building 5 Bruces for music and home theater.
The plan is also to add an infinite baffle sub to take the LF load of the fostex drivers. My theory is that the the smooth LF response of the the Bruce should integrate nicely with the sub and that using 5 identical speakers should make surround well integrated also.
Additionally, there is some unused space behind the walls so I am looking at mounting the front 3 at least as indicated in the attachment.
Initially at least, I would be using a relatively cheap Onkyo HT amp...
Does anyone have any thoughts on this arrangement?
DB