Scottmoose said:
With 500 + hrs on thm the Lyeco's character has not changed significantly for the better... i really want to pop the FE108eS in, but was i open up the hole for them, a new supraBaffle would be required for the Lyeco.... i'll probably do it anyway.
I did a quick tweeter experiment, that didn't help...
dave
loninappleton said:
BVR = Big Vent Reflex.
As a generalization, the drivers that prefer horns (ie FExx6) will likely do better in the Nagaoka stle boxes & the ones not usually associated with horns (ie FExx7) in the BVRs... the BVRs thou are very driver tolerant and seem pefectly happy with things like the FE126, FE166 and 208eS (all examples of successful Harvey, iris & Bruce)
dave
OzMikeH said:
no one local has any idea, but got a reponse back from a plywood supplier:
Cost of 18mm Birch is $157.30 per sheet. Cost on 4 sheets to Mackay would be $203.00.
so for 4 sheets of 2440x1220 including postage to my place: $832.20au
expensive?
Planet10, any chance of a total price including shipping to aussie for a harvey
(exluding duty of course)
stevodude said:Planet10, any chance of a total price including shipping to aussie for a harvey
Without actually cutting one out, a bit of a challenge, but i'll think about how to generate an estimate... the 60" dimension is certainly going to push it beyond any hope of sending it by post.
I will have postage for frugel-horn flat-paks soon.
dave
well maybe...
Well, we're talking about six inches here. The break in continuity in the back of the cabinet could be hidden behind the last bend, which is a solid mass of baltic birch. On the sides, it could be joined with a spline, and the only difference would likely be "just" aesthetics, which could be remedied with veneer, or in the finishing room. Maybe?
What is the recommended material or technique for building these designs, when they are larger then standard materials?
In any case, I'll draw up some changes (after work and repost for critique.
stagger
Well, we're talking about six inches here. The break in continuity in the back of the cabinet could be hidden behind the last bend, which is a solid mass of baltic birch. On the sides, it could be joined with a spline, and the only difference would likely be "just" aesthetics, which could be remedied with veneer, or in the finishing room. Maybe?
What is the recommended material or technique for building these designs, when they are larger then standard materials?
In any case, I'll draw up some changes (after work
and repost for critique.stagger
I used 3/4" chip/particle board and 1/4" WBP (bog-standard, B&Q cheapo stuffs) for a small pair of OBs that I made. I spent about 1/2 an hour in the shop, putting different layers of sheet material together, tapping than and listening to the noise. Ok, not exactly scientific, but it made sense at the time...
The Chipboard/ply combo was the quietest- the vibrations seemed very well damped. Ply was quite resonant, as was MDF and chipboard on their own. Ply on it's own sounded 'nicer' than MDF or Chip on their own.
Ply+MDF did not make much of an improvement, neither did hardboard+anything else.
MDF+ Chipboard wasn't bad, but still wasn't great.
I ended up with a pair of OBs that are about 20" tall and 24" wide, with tapered sides. they are fitted with elliptical drivers from an old Radiogram (Console). Sound quite good- when they are in phase...
I hope that this is vaguely useful.
James
The Chipboard/ply combo was the quietest- the vibrations seemed very well damped. Ply was quite resonant, as was MDF and chipboard on their own. Ply on it's own sounded 'nicer' than MDF or Chip on their own.
Ply+MDF did not make much of an improvement, neither did hardboard+anything else.
MDF+ Chipboard wasn't bad, but still wasn't great.
I ended up with a pair of OBs that are about 20" tall and 24" wide, with tapered sides. they are fitted with elliptical drivers from an old Radiogram (Console). Sound quite good- when they are in phase...
I hope that this is vaguely useful.
James
a few (characteristically) uncorrelated thoughts:
1) If the prices you've quoted for the 18mm plywood are in fact for 4'x8' sheets (i.e. 1220mmx2440mm), they are in fact not too far off what I've been recently quoted on domestic production "Europly". Domestic in this case meaning Canada.
Recently I've seen an almost 30% increase in the cost of 5x5' Baltic birch from our major industrial suppliers. Artificial/ BS or not, among the reasons cited are difficulties in harvesting from the normally frozen European forests, as a result of earlier than normal thaws due to our friend global warming. Whether the logging companies are nimble enough to modify their methods to include us of helicopters, or otherwise modify their methods, you can bet that the cost will be passed on to the customer.
2) Depending on your terms of reference, "plywood" can include any combinations of MDF /chip or flake board cross bands and thin face veneers of selected species for furniture or architectural grade finishes. Not all plywoods are sonically equal. While major panel manufactures may publish technical specs, I think most of what we're discussing in terms of the relative merit of broad categories of material types for loudspeaker enclosures can be described at best as "subjective" .
3) IINM, the late Terry Cain used particle board (either full core or cross banded multi-ply) rather than MDF. MDF is great for workbench tops
4) There are several methods that could be employed to fabricate enclosures taller than 60" from the BB panels. My personal choice would be 2 layers of material with staggered butt joints and solid splines. Certainly a bit more work, but definitely would make for a very rigid enclosure.
1) If the prices you've quoted for the 18mm plywood are in fact for 4'x8' sheets (i.e. 1220mmx2440mm), they are in fact not too far off what I've been recently quoted on domestic production "Europly". Domestic in this case meaning Canada.
Recently I've seen an almost 30% increase in the cost of 5x5' Baltic birch from our major industrial suppliers. Artificial/ BS or not, among the reasons cited are difficulties in harvesting from the normally frozen European forests, as a result of earlier than normal thaws due to our friend global warming. Whether the logging companies are nimble enough to modify their methods to include us of helicopters, or otherwise modify their methods, you can bet that the cost will be passed on to the customer.
2) Depending on your terms of reference, "plywood" can include any combinations of MDF /chip or flake board cross bands and thin face veneers of selected species for furniture or architectural grade finishes. Not all plywoods are sonically equal. While major panel manufactures may publish technical specs, I think most of what we're discussing in terms of the relative merit of broad categories of material types for loudspeaker enclosures can be described at best as "subjective" .
3) IINM, the late Terry Cain used particle board (either full core or cross banded multi-ply) rather than MDF. MDF is great for workbench tops
4) There are several methods that could be employed to fabricate enclosures taller than 60" from the BB panels. My personal choice would be 2 layers of material with staggered butt joints and solid splines. Certainly a bit more work, but definitely would make for a very rigid enclosure.
Scarfing plywood
chrisb said:
Although it is intimidating at first glance, it is actually fairly easy to scarf plywood, since the plies give a nice contour map of how well your angle cut is working out. One good description can be found here (he uses a power plane, but a block plane works fine). Other descriptions can be found by googling "scarfing plywood" - I just wanted to say that it is do-able, even by klutzes like me; and it makes for a good strong joint with no butt blocks or splines to worry about.
Regards.
Aengus
chrisb said:
Although it is intimidating at first glance, it is actually fairly easy to scarf plywood, since the plies give a nice contour map of how well your angle cut is working out. One good description can be found here (he uses a power plane, but a block plane works fine). Other descriptions can be found by googling "scarfing plywood" - I just wanted to say that it is do-able, even by klutzes like me; and it makes for a good strong joint with no butt blocks or splines to worry about.
Regards.
Aengus