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Old 30th April 2007, 02:45 PM   #521
DaveM is offline DaveM  United States
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I am looking for suggestions. I have some parts that are sitting on the shelf that were bought a while back with good intentions that have neglected. What I have is a pair of WR125s and a pair of Raven 1 tweeters. My previous experience with these Ravens is that they sound terrible if you try and use them too low, so enter the WR125. Should be a good match. Cross them over at 4-5k and life should be good. But what box should I build?

Should I buy another pair to make the Calhoun? Or would I be happy with the Bob? The MiniOnken is another option. I am just unsure of the strengths and weaknesses of my options.

Thanks.

DaveM
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Old 30th April 2007, 03:25 PM   #522
GM is offline GM  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scottmoose
I reckon he might be OK Greg -a fair proportion of the series resistance is probably due to the lack of amp adjustment to Qt (I'm learning... ). Most T-amps have a relatively low DF IIRC, so the T-amp's lack of voltage swinging ability might not be too much of a problem. I'm no expert though as you know, so please put me straight if I'm off the mark on this.
Greets!

Hmm, the driver is nominally 8 ohms, rising in the HF and if an 8 ohm series resistor is used, then the amp is always 'feeling' virtually a minimum of 16 ohms, rising in the HF, so if the amp's power supply isn't 'stiff' enough to provide sufficient voltage on demand..........

Bottom line, if the amp's not rated for 16 ohms, odds are it will 'lay down' big time on fast transients even though it's not being over driven based on its power rating. Remember, the amp's power supply is the most costly portion, so it's where the majority of cost management occurs.

I recently auditioned some Panasonic and Onkyo digital HT receivers that have gotten favorable reviews for their sonics, but when presented with 8 ohms series R with a nominally 8 ohm speaker they reminded me of a '50s AM transistor radio (no highs, no lows, must be @#$% kind of sound), so Caveat Emptor.

GM
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Old 30th April 2007, 04:13 PM   #523
GM is offline GM  United States
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Greets!

The 'problem' with the R1 is that it's brutally revealing, like a good compression loaded horn, so with its relatively high sensitivity, it needs a comparable bottom end. Mating it with a such a low sensitivity driver is a waste of nearly 10 dB of its ~12 dB distortion headroom, so unless these will be either nearfield monitors or listened to at typical TV viewing levels you may find them quite strident on some passages. I had the misfortune to be in a room when a small two way system using these were cranked up and it was akin to listening to aluminum being ripped. The same woofer cab with a Vifa? aluminum dome tweeter OTOH was a wonderful match.

WRT dual WR125s, this is fine if one is rolled off to account for any BSC, but 4-5 kHz is too high to run them in parallel IMO, especially if paired to the R1. Frankly, unless you plan to step up to a fairly large system using HE drivers at some point to match the R1s, maybe the best option is to sell them if you can get a fair price to fund the extra cost of components for one of the bipolar designs and add one of the small ribbons to add a bit of top end 'sparkle'/more off axis response if need be: http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-CSS.html

GM
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Old 2nd May 2007, 04:15 AM   #524
cwujek is offline cwujek  United States
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Default Newbie looking to build a Hiro..

A few quick questions from a new member:
1.) I have an opportunity to get a good pair of Fostex FE168 Sigma drivers for relatively cheap (note: not the newer FE186EZ version). Would this make a good candidate for the Hiro? Here are the specs for the older FE168:
FE168 specs

2.) This is going to be my first speaker build, but I am very comfortable with woodworking, and will have a full shop to use for the build process. Another question: wood choice. I noticed that some other speaker builders (including Cain speakers, which is actually based in Walla Walla, where I live) use woods other than birch. Would a choice such as maple be beneficial in the design, or should I just stick with voidless birch?

3.) Should I bother building a suprabaffle? I've seen this in many designs, is it worth adding?

4.) Should I consider a different amplifier? I have a Eico HF81 and a Sherwood s5000. Both seem like pretty good amplifiers, but I just want to make sure.

Any other general tips or comments are welcome, sorry for the brief hijack.

Chris
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Old 2nd May 2007, 11:31 PM   #525
ronc is offline ronc  United States
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I originally developed the suprabaffle ( name coined by Dave) to fill in the FR gap betwween the horn roll off and baffle action. A lot depends on the FR curve and the cab FR roll off. I am not knowing of the cab that you are refering to?
With the given Qts i would suggest a MLTL, it would require little electronic compensation.

ron
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Old 3rd May 2007, 12:00 AM   #526
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Hi Ron,

The Hiro is found at Dave's site here.

http://www.frugal-horn.com/spawn.html
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Old 3rd May 2007, 12:24 AM   #527
cwujek is offline cwujek  United States
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Well, the drivers I ended up with are Fostex fe166e's, so I would have to build the scaled down version of the Hiro. But, after looking at costs and options available, I think I'm just going to scratch a double horn design for now. Ron, I'm actually thinking of building one of your designs, the Austin 166. I will PM you so I wont continue the forum clutter....
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Old 3rd May 2007, 01:51 AM   #528
cwujek is offline cwujek  United States
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ronc, can you send me an email? Since I'm a new member, I am not allowed to email other members yet......just shoot a message to cwujek@hotmail.com. Thanks,

Chris
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Old 3rd May 2007, 03:03 AM   #529
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Quote:
Originally posted by cwujek
the drivers I ended up with are Fostex fe166e's, so I would have to build the scaled down version of the Hiro.
Hiro was designed for the FE166e... as far as finesse goes, ron's are (likely) without peer.

dave
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Old 10th May 2007, 11:18 AM   #530
Mayday is offline Mayday  Sweden
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Will the "Harvey" horn work with Tang Band W4-1320SD 4" Bamboo Cone Driver? As is that is, with the very good plans I DL from frugal-horn.com

Driver 4"
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