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#511 |
diyAudio Member
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I just can't belive how you guys (scottmoose and GM) are able to hear my poorly described problems and immediately identify the cause. I definately was the bookshelf amp. I borrowed a heavier duty amp from my brother and it was unbeleiveable the difference that it made!!
These things are powerful!! Even my girlfriend likes the sound. Plenty loud enough to annoy all in the house ![]() BTW, this is as off topic as I'll take this ![]() Thanks, Bruce |
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#512 | |
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
I understand this one is decent http://www.trendsaudio.com/EN/Product/TA-10_desc.htm http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/trends/ta10.html dave
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#513 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Quote:
Yours was a common newbie problem......... Unless it's a Crown studio/recording series or similar ($$$), steer clear of prosound amps for wide BW use as they aren't designed with high sound quality (SQ) in mind. Since you're having to use considerable series resistance to flatten its response, you need an amp with a power rating at a nominal impedance high enough to handle it, or ~16 ohms in your case if you don't want it to possibly 'lay down' due to not enough voltage swing when there's significant LF content in the recording. This makes any of the chip amps I've seen specs of suspect IMO, so Caveat Emptor. GM
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#514 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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I reckon he might be OK Greg -a fair proportion of the series resistance is probably due to the lack of amp adjustment to Qt (I'm learning...
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"'That'll do", comes the cry of the perfectionist down the ages.' James May -The Reassembler www.wodendesign.com Community sites www.frugal-horn.com http://frugal-phile.com/ |
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#515 |
diyAudio Member
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The 8 ohms was just the smallest resistor I had on hand. (and the only one not 1/4 watt)
I hardly know anything!! I just read what you guys "in the know" say and do it. The theory seems to stick and I try to put it into my own practice (like my failed "cheapo" bibs) then, I just say "BAH, I'll use the know quantity and tweak it if necessary" So from my end a big thanks to all those who know and share! Bruce |
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#516 |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Tri-Cities TN
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Anyone built a Sachiko so far?
I'm looking for a very high eff speaker so the 8" driver stood out. I know some of the other 8" drivers don't HAVE to have a tweeter, but I want sparkle so I'm already commited to one anyway (my main system uses ribbons so I'm afraid I'd miss their extension). I've also read the sigmas have a very good midrange so that is why I was considering the FE208EZ first. Of course I'm open to other driver suggestions too. From what I interpreted earlier it sounds like the Sachiko is a better fit for that driver because Bruce is more of a BR design so it wants a higher qts. Any modifications needed to use that driver in that cabinet? Where is the best place to mount the tweeter. Can't use the top like the stock cabinets. Attach it to the side or steal a bit of the baffle? If you used the baffle would the tweeter take enough airspace to need to tweak those dimensions? Thanks for the detailed plans! The cut plan is a great touch. Jeremy |
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#517 | |
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#518 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Tri-Cities TN
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I can see how that is much easier than dealing with the pod style. The FT17 isn't as much either. It looks to be a good match in efficency. I'm sure with a bit of playing around I can find the right crossover cap value. I know this is the Full Range forum so that is heresy, but I just want high eff. It won't fit directly above the bigger driver, but if I put it diagonally to one side it should fix fine. After calculating the driver baffle area vs the area the tweeter takes up I see its only a bit over 1% of the space so I guess its just noise. Its a shame the AC ribbons are so much $ and so much bigger. |
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#519 | |
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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![]() Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#520 | |
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sunny Tustin, SoCal
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Quote:
The damping factor of your average class D amp is pretty decent, but decreases with increasing frequency due to the typical LC network for keeping RF out of your speaker. Funny... most speakers have increasing impedance with increasing frequency anyway.... perhaps this actually leads to a more consistent damping factor over the load vs. a frequency constant DF.....
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