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#1601 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
analogies have limitations - or rather, each of us "understands" them to a greater or lesser degree, based on our own experience one of my greatest audio revelations in over 40yrs is something I still don't understand fully (indeed, who does?) - EnABL
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you don't really believe everything you think, do you? community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com commercial site planet10-HiFi |
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#1602 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Have still been wrestling with this, will probably end up setting the router up and adding some test curves to these. Based on some of the dimensions given for curvy chang will probably try two, one at the 15" depth originally given by ron, second at 7 1/4". (Or ?????)
Will have to clear some space on the bench for a pivot this long! Would still appreciate some feedback with respect to the "combining" aspect of the curve. Or on a similar train of thought, why does this work better than two curved mouths (think A126) at the top and bottom of the saburo? Enjoying the journey. |
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#1603 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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The focusing is a difference rather than an increase in performance per se.
I junked the idea long ago for this cab. To gain the necessary baffle-support, you have to make the side extensions either side of the driver extremely deep -so deep that you get a cavity resonance (standing waves) between them, which is the last thing you want rippling through the midband. Bad idea. |
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#1604 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Thanks for the heads up! Will scrap the large curves, would there be any advantage to curving both of the mouths (like A126)?
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#1605 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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It'd theoretically improve the aspect ratio somewhat, but given the configuration, you'd be unlikely to hear any differences. I'd leave it alone.
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#1606 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Fair enough, boxes stay as is.
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#1607 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Checotah, Okrahoma former home of the Okra Fest
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Gents,
Could the Tang Band sub ref. here: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-832 be considered a substitute for the recomended driver? could it be used with a change of the vent size/length? It's about 1/2 the cost of the CSS SDX7, and by accounts I've seen has quite acceptable performance. Just curious. John |
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#1608 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: new jersey
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I built a pair of the Jaguar Alpair enclosures of baltic birch, and they are not working as I would expect them to. Previously, I built a pair of mlqwtl of double mdf and they work extremely well. Adding the second layer of mdf made a noticable improvement
The BVR's have substantial high frequency output in the mid range from the vents. Sounds like harmonics in the soprano vocals. I added some poly stuffing, which tamed it a bit, but now it sounds congested. I'm driving these with a pair of pp kt88 amplifiers. The speakers are a few feet from the side walls and ten feet from my listening position. Any input appreciated. thanks Les |
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#1609 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: new jersey
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I believe I found the problem: resonance in the walls of the chamber. I used a brace, vertically from front to back. the side walls, even of 3/4 baltic birch were ringing like bells.
As an experiment, I clamped 3/4" plywood boards diagonally to the sides. the problem went away even with the stuffing completely removed. |
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#1610 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Been condering about a half-Jaguar (WAF issues)...something like the Brynn - remove the top vent & horn
Any major flaws with this? |
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