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Glowbug 20th July 2006 07:02 AM

Building full range open baffle?
I've got the urge to build something as an afternoon project, something I can use with my NAD 3020 as a backup system now that I've got the main rig glowing in the living room :D

So I'm thinking about a pair of OB speakers. Where I'm using the NAD, I don't need a ton of efficiency like I would have with the triode amps. Problem is, I can't seem to find plans out there for simple OB speakers that use easily-found drivers. All the ones I see are for rare or very expensive ones :(

So what are some cheap, easy to find (@ Madisound, PE or elsewhere) speakers that have potential in OB? What size baffle should I start out with?

Bas Horneman 20th July 2006 07:13 AM

Maybe the silver iris drive units?

ozmattk 20th July 2006 08:17 AM

Either the Silver Iris or for true fullrange but less bass, the Visaton B200.Or any driver with qts of .7 or greater and a reasonably low Fs, say 50hz or less
For cheap find an old console stereo and get the speakers from that,I did it this about a month back with some 8 inch Rola drivers in 3 foot tall x 2 foot wide baffles and it works very well.
If you have the space try these-
Check the Hawthorne Audio site forum, some discussion there regarding baffle building.
You can download a spread sheet here-
(baffle xls) and it will show the effect of different size baffles and different drivers on frequency response.

Glowbug 20th July 2006 08:45 AM

Hmm...that talk of the 10" drivers makes me almost want to wait...but the 15's are tempting as well :D

Thank you for the link, I think I've found something to drool over ;)

johninCR 20th July 2006 07:46 PM

The 10's won't qualify for full range due to the higher Fs.

For a really cheap shot at OB, try the $24 pioneer B20 fullranger at partsexpress, then add a tweeked out piezo for the very top end.

Nanook 20th July 2006 08:20 PM

"JE Labs" OBs..
I've built em and love em.

Do not alter the dimensions or location of the primary driver. But you can alter the back "shelf", making it full width (about 30" long) instead of 6" or so. Bass is improved.

As Mr. Esmilla suggests, finish (cosmetically) the loudspeakers before you listen to them, or you'll never take em apart to finish them:-)

Glowbug 20th July 2006 08:58 PM

The only thing that bothers me about the 15" Silver Iris's is the fact that people are saying the 10's are "faster", I've been around this sort of thing long enough to know that inductance plays a larger part in transient response than Mms does, so what's going on here?

I just don't want to have sloppy midrange as a tradeoff for deeper bass. I can always add a small sub to take care of the sub-60Hz material.

I'd build the JE Labs version, except my room is a little small for that...not sure how well I could fit the baffles in there. A taller but narrower baffle would fit better.

MJK 21st July 2006 12:31 AM

Have you thought about using one of the Fostex full range drivers, maybe a FE-167E, and a 15" HE woofer crossed over someplace between 100 and 200 Hz? Would not be too expensive and I have to believe very nice sounding. I think a full range driver and a big woofer makes a lot of sense. Baffle could be 20 to 24 inches wide by 40 to 48" tall with a pair of hinged wings.

Glowbug 21st July 2006 05:45 PM

Which woofers would you suggest?

I read a previous thread on here where Peerless SLS's were recommended: but the Q seems a bit low.

Scottmoose 21st July 2006 05:57 PM

15in Daytons should do the trick.

Don't always believe that big cones are automatically slower than smaller ones BTW. It's not true, at least with well engineered ones. The cones tend to be pretty light, and having a large surface area they don't need to travel as far.

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