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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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How do you like your full range speakers when it comes to listening to Rock/Hard Rock? What do you consider the best full ranger when it comes to this type of music?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Greets!
For me, R&R/Hard Rock and FR drivers are mutually exclusive unless they are augmented with a LF/midbass and super tweeter. The one exception might be a really large front and back loaded horn design, but never having auditioned one with Hard Rock, it's just speculation. Soft Rock OTOH can be adequately handled by a Jordan MLTL in an average size room. GM
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Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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I listen to hard rock sometimes through my fostex 206 in BLH and yes, they could use a bit more thump but it's not to the point of wanting a sub. I moved mine to the corners of the room to add more bass.
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Just once I wish someone would call me "Sir" without adding, "you're making a scene" |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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FR can put you in the concert hall, but not the mosh pit
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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some observations: Supravox in OB is very nice with the rock music! Small Fostexes are too "clean sounding" and bass-shy so could be a bit agressive/unsupportable with rock. Lowthers/ACR in front horns with SE tubes are realy nice for rock (BD front horns). Chip FRs i experienced sound good with small acoustic music, when thinks become more complex - as rock music - they tend to be agressive and distorted, especialy when played loud.
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Chicago area
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Quote:
I was going to ask this same question. I've gotten the itch to build a pair of Fostex horns using the FE206E or 207E. Most of the music I listen to isn't hard rock but some of it is. Based on the responses here it seems that I should either plan on adding a subwoofer and supertweeter (though my ears might not benefit from the extra high frequencies!) or having two sets of speakers (not a high WAF option). Still have the itch to build though!
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--Sherman |
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#7 | |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: home sweet home
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it depends...
....it depends how loud you want to play your rock music, it depends how much are you willing to sacrify the bass i have been using Lowthers on open baffle supported from 150Hz down by 15" woofer for 10 years now and it can play any music I believe that speakers should be designed to play well with all sorts of music...having said that, I do have second system just for very loud, very dynamic music, mostly rock, based on three compression drivers with pa 18" woofer, those speakers rocks, but occasionaly I play classical music on them too... in my hymble opinion, single fr without woofer support in any enclosure will not satisfy, did not satisfy me |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have heard resoanable results in a 200 sq. ft. room using the JX92 mated to a sub below 100Hz. I assume the SupraVox or Veravox mated to a sub can also work. For any rock slam you should use a sub with a fullrange.
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...still looking for the holy grail. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: British Antarctic Territory
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I might have a non-consensus opinion, but I think it is easier to get rock right than orchestral music right, with full-ranger or not. Large-scale orchestral music tends to have really gnarly transients in JUST the frequency range that is difficult for typical full-rangers. Most rock recordings, on the other hand, tend to be pretty compressed.
My FE207E in vented cabs give as much as I would want (with the exception of sub-bass) on material ranging from rock, reggae, electronic, jazz, esoterica, etc etc. If I had a larger listening room, however, I am not certain. IMO a lot has to do with the kind of amplification. There seems to be an automatic conflation of single driver with SET -- misplaced assumption IMO. Lowthers in large rearloaded horn -- OK, that is a high efficiency setup. But most people with fullrangers have stuff that is CONSIDERABLY less efficient, and could use some more umph than just a 2A3 or 300B single-ended. |
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