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#81 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
At some point i'll have stock, but probably will be selling them modded (your choice of colour) dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#82 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#83 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Washington DC
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Chris: Thanks for the advice but I managed to create a Jig by cutting 5 30 degree blocks and clamping them plus a backer board (to place the piece to be cut up against) to the miter guide. I set the saw to 30 degrees as well and voila! I have 60 degrees. Worked like a charm. Had a kick back on the first go round, (lucky I wasn't standing infront of it) the 200 mile per hour board just missed me.
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#84 | |
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Banned
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Should i buy a pair of ribbon tweeters to go along with these. Since i like a little extra tweet with my Audio. ? Is the pair that brent available for loan for a week ? |
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#85 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
I'd suggest wait until you hear them with the modded 126's. With your mini-A's and silver interconnects, detail and extension though the top end shouldn't be a problem. Save the expensive ribbons for a mid/bass driver that really needs the help (e.g. WR125's) Jason, et al: don't forget that any of these rear mouthed horns really need either a pair of corners or well executed reflectors for optimum low end weight and dynamics. While there are some issues with soundstage "holography" due to side wall reflections in the as yet untreated new listening room, there's a huge improvement in the subjective quality and quantity of bass over the open plan upstairs space. ( at least 4 times the cubic volume) Quote:
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#86 | |
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Banned
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Does brent still have them ? |
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#87 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
Since you may need to decrease the volume of the CC, you might want to cut some 2x4 or even 45 degree chamfered 4x4 material for solid blocking at the rear of the CC. After some a short listening session Friday ( 2 hours), I decided to permanently reduce the CC, and open up the void even further. As you know, these aren't huge boxes; due to hatchet work (actually my trusty 30yr old hand saw) and bondo fill required to modify the box, no pictures 'til after another listen; if worthy, them some veneer, or at least a quick coat of flat black primer ( rat rod hi-fi at its best) |
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#88 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Washington DC
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I created a 45 degree cut (both ends) board to block the void. I will fill with dampening material of some kind. This reduces (by my calcs) the volume of the CC to 1.4. I am thinking that it will need to be reduced even further so I am playing with ideas on how to do this. I will be listening for the first time this morning so...
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#89 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Too much damping material will increase the effective volume of the CC.
To reduce the volume you want to fill with solid mass - wood, metal, 1 litre filled paint can (no kidding - that's the first thing Dave grabbed from the workshop ) Make sure to treat the cone material as well as the other driver tweaks noted: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...158#post883158 not a subtle improvement on either the 126 or 127 |
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#90 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
Jason, it sounded like you were asking about the ribbons. If you mean the Fostex 126 mini-hybrids - ask Dave - he might still have them kicking around. But frankly they're sadly far behind the performance of either the modified Buschorn MKI or seriously lapped by the Frugelhorns. |
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