The reason I thought a star or sun shaped baffle might work is that it would spread diffraction oner a wider range of frequencies. But is was an idea, a guess that I hoped would have sonic and visual benefits. I have no engineering background so you can bash me if my "theory" doesn`t hold water.
Dave: Just finishing up my pair of Frugal-horns. Have made the driver baffle removeable (for now) to play with both the 108 sigmas, and the 126's. Am starting off with a cc volume of about 2.2L, but we'll see.
Am hoping to plug 'em in tonight, (wife already loves the size, but no "stop-signs" for now!) and compare them to my modded mk2 B'horns.
Will post impressions, pics soon.
Thanks to you all for making this project available.
Don
Am hoping to plug 'em in tonight, (wife already loves the size, but no "stop-signs" for now!) and compare them to my modded mk2 B'horns.
Will post impressions, pics soon.
Thanks to you all for making this project available.
Don
dhenryp said:
Both Martin & Scott have modeled the Frugel-Horn. Because the best that Martin's models can currently do is model for quarter-space, with these 1/8th space horns the results are hard to interpret and have only given us some clues.
Martin will be getting a set of flat-packs for Version 1 (the current alpha version -- if its predessor is any indicator -- could be very close to a V1 release). Martin will use this to calibrate his horn models for 1/8th space.
What we learn from that excersize will help drive development of Version 2 (i have ideas floating around in my head and some sketches, but the insides will likely be significantly different).
dave
Gexter: The black baffle is removeable. An identical one is fitted with a FE126E. 10 mins. and your swapped over.
I've made wood blocks that stack in layers, like cards, and are screwed into the rear bulkhead of the cc. Adding or subtracting adjusts the volume. Am currently playing with this, as I've still got too much(?) high frequency exiting the horn mouth. Suggestions anyone?
Don
I've made wood blocks that stack in layers, like cards, and are screwed into the rear bulkhead of the cc. Adding or subtracting adjusts the volume. Am currently playing with this, as I've still got too much(?) high frequency exiting the horn mouth. Suggestions anyone?
Don
Sweet! thanks Doorman
I intend on the Fe126 ( price point ) So those are the results I am particularly interested in.
As far as High freq exiting the horn mouth. I don't know very much but I have an opinion that someone is more than welcome to clear up for me.
I would try felt lining I also would think that a small amount of polyester fill in the CC would help but maybe not enough.
Has anyone tried to use blue SM blocks to adjust the CC and kill some of the High freq? Or is that just a dumb idea?
I have no idea how these ideas would work with a horn. they work with a tapered pipe/TL for me.
I intend on the Fe126 ( price point ) So those are the results I am particularly interested in.
As far as High freq exiting the horn mouth. I don't know very much but I have an opinion that someone is more than welcome to clear up for me.
I would try felt lining I also would think that a small amount of polyester fill in the CC would help but maybe not enough.
Has anyone tried to use blue SM blocks to adjust the CC and kill some of the High freq? Or is that just a dumb idea?
I have no idea how these ideas would work with a horn. they work with a tapered pipe/TL for me.
Yup, have just increased the cc volume to about 1.6L, much better.
As to compromises, I'm sure your right. I've not tried the 126's for any real listening yet. Maybe Dave can speak to their findings re: different drivers.
(Compromises, hell, wife won't allow any room treatment, then there's the lack of any corners!! )
Gex, those pics Dave posted are mine. (Thanks Dave!)
Don
As to compromises, I'm sure your right. I've not tried the 126's for any real listening yet. Maybe Dave can speak to their findings re: different drivers.
(Compromises, hell, wife won't allow any room treatment, then there's the lack of any corners!! )
Gex, those pics Dave posted are mine. (Thanks Dave!)
Don
GM said:
I'll be the 1st to admit that Frugel-Horn V1 won't be optimum (at least the feeling i get from poking around at lines of attack for V2). But it gives us a starting point (having a set of these in Martin's hands to calibrate his model should prove invaluable) . And already (have to admit i'm biased) is best of breed (for what is out there). (Boy there sure is a lot of parantheses in that paragraph
)dave
planet10 said:
Dave,
Does that mean without the suprabaffle or reflector it sounds equal to or better than The Horn?
In what ways do you expect V2 to be different in terms of horn dimensions? Will it have a horn length of over 2m like Ron's or the Fostex 108, or are you talking about a different folding or CC change?
johninCR said:
Until there is an actual shoot-out we won't know (anyone want to send me a pair?) but i'd bet money on it. The work Ron has done on the back does some pretty dramatic things.
It is still real early days. I'd like to keep the footprint close to the same, but it may have to grow a bit deeper.
dave
Another question is about corners. There's been all this talk about the Frugels being corner horns. I'm lucky in that I have front corners, but how close to the corners do they need to be? Are the wavelengths involved long enough that a good imaging placement out a meter or so from the corner is ok to still get the extension benefit of the corner support? Or do these really need to be stuffed back into the corners?
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