Is anyone familiar with this driver? It's the Pioneer A11EC80-02F.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-010
I know that the 8 inch pioneer is pretty popular so maybe this one is not bad either. Hopefully someone with a lot more knowledge and experience than me can chime in on this one.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-010
I know that the 8 inch pioneer is pretty popular so maybe this one is not bad either. Hopefully someone with a lot more knowledge and experience than me can chime in on this one.
I just got this speaker the other day. I have small (48") tapered quarter pipes I put together to see if I wanted to build the 6 footers. Originally I simmed them for Fostex 127's but they seem to be doing fine with the Pioneers and at a good price.
The bass is fairly solid with only the kick being lacking for the most part. Bass guitar is there and discernible. They are a little raw on some of the guitar parts but I'm still adjusting stuffing. Vocals sound quite nice. I'm not sure about burn in but they already sound better than when I first hooked them up a week ago.
For scrap wood and 20 dollars they sound pretty good to me.
The bass is fairly solid with only the kick being lacking for the most part. Bass guitar is there and discernible. They are a little raw on some of the guitar parts but I'm still adjusting stuffing. Vocals sound quite nice. I'm not sure about burn in but they already sound better than when I first hooked them up a week ago.
For scrap wood and 20 dollars they sound pretty good to me.
The highs sound fine to me. But you have to remember that my opinions are qualified by the price of the speaker, for a 20 dollar investment this is a winner, and I got to check out my cabs. while I wait on the Fostex units.
Now to qualify my hearing. The specs say they go to 15K. I'm not sure what is actually up there but nothing appears to be lacking from the recordings I'm listening to, Pink Floyd, Pearl Jam, Green Day, some metal. I'm an old PA man so I might not hear it even if its there but those are my impressions from the first week.
I think this is a good speaker to experiment with and test cabinets, and its cheap!
Now to qualify my hearing. The specs say they go to 15K. I'm not sure what is actually up there but nothing appears to be lacking from the recordings I'm listening to, Pink Floyd, Pearl Jam, Green Day, some metal. I'm an old PA man so I might not hear it even if its there but those are my impressions from the first week.
I think this is a good speaker to experiment with and test cabinets, and its cheap!
Greets!
Here's what I posted on the FR forum several years ago:
"I compared them with the 40-1197 and 40-1354 in an aperiodic foam 'box' and its mids/HF wasn't quite as good as either of them, though it's a little fuller sounding in the lower octaves above Fs. My main hang-up with it was the surround, it was too lossy and rippled a bit, so had higher distortion even at low SPLs. Cab loading can either help or hinder and all things considered, I chose to return them."
Some specs, though considering how often they change manufacturers and materials, no telling how accurate they are with current units:
70 Hz Fs
0.31 ft^3 Vas (8.78 L)
1.4 Qms
0.47 Qes
0.35187 Qts
6 ohms Re
3.56" dia (9.0424 cm)
9.954"^2 Sd (64.219 cm)
4.3926 N/A BL (calc'd)
Xmax 0.04" (assumed)
89.92 dB/W/m (calc'd)
GM
Here's what I posted on the FR forum several years ago:
"I compared them with the 40-1197 and 40-1354 in an aperiodic foam 'box' and its mids/HF wasn't quite as good as either of them, though it's a little fuller sounding in the lower octaves above Fs. My main hang-up with it was the surround, it was too lossy and rippled a bit, so had higher distortion even at low SPLs. Cab loading can either help or hinder and all things considered, I chose to return them."
Some specs, though considering how often they change manufacturers and materials, no telling how accurate they are with current units:
70 Hz Fs
0.31 ft^3 Vas (8.78 L)
1.4 Qms
0.47 Qes
0.35187 Qts
6 ohms Re
3.56" dia (9.0424 cm)
9.954"^2 Sd (64.219 cm)
4.3926 N/A BL (calc'd)
Xmax 0.04" (assumed)
89.92 dB/W/m (calc'd)
GM
>>> Well said, I think the tweaks for the NSB's on Zilla's site would all be good for this speaker and I intend to try them and will post back.
I dont recall any tweaks posted on my site... but here are some from this site:
http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/nsb/nsb2.htm
Tips and Tricks for the NSB's
1. Use rope putty, modeling clay, or speaker sealing caulk on the basket to dampen the ringing of these poor things! Works well. It's pliable, seals very well, and can be taken apart easily if you need to remove your drivers. I've never heard a driver sound worse from having used this on the basket.
2. Making a small 1/4" or so hole in the dustcap will allow more and cleaner excursion with less air noise.
3. Coating the cone can help smooth out the response. Various coatings such as diluted "Tacky glue", diluted Elmer's glue, lacquers, water repellants, etc. seem to subjectively smooth out the response. Some experimentation is needed, along with measurements to confirm listening tests.
4. Making a trim ring works well to hide the nasty square frame of the NSB's. Not only will this improve the looks of the NSB, it can actually smooth out the sound by reducing diffraction. First, flush-mount the driver into the baffle by freehand routing a 1/16" recess around the frame. Now, the trim ring can be placed on top of the driver frame and baffle for a neat, clean looking job.
5. Cutting the hole for these drivers is a little tricky. There is not much room on the flat frame edge to seal the driver if you happen to cut a little large. When cutting the hole, cut it a little small and then round over the front edge lightly and you'll see that the driver seats well.
I dont recall any tweaks posted on my site... but here are some from this site:
http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcase/nsb/nsb2.htm
Tips and Tricks for the NSB's
1. Use rope putty, modeling clay, or speaker sealing caulk on the basket to dampen the ringing of these poor things! Works well. It's pliable, seals very well, and can be taken apart easily if you need to remove your drivers. I've never heard a driver sound worse from having used this on the basket.
2. Making a small 1/4" or so hole in the dustcap will allow more and cleaner excursion with less air noise.
3. Coating the cone can help smooth out the response. Various coatings such as diluted "Tacky glue", diluted Elmer's glue, lacquers, water repellants, etc. seem to subjectively smooth out the response. Some experimentation is needed, along with measurements to confirm listening tests.
4. Making a trim ring works well to hide the nasty square frame of the NSB's. Not only will this improve the looks of the NSB, it can actually smooth out the sound by reducing diffraction. First, flush-mount the driver into the baffle by freehand routing a 1/16" recess around the frame. Now, the trim ring can be placed on top of the driver frame and baffle for a neat, clean looking job.
5. Cutting the hole for these drivers is a little tricky. There is not much room on the flat frame edge to seal the driver if you happen to cut a little large. When cutting the hole, cut it a little small and then round over the front edge lightly and you'll see that the driver seats well.
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