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Old 30th March 2006, 08:47 PM   #11
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Location: Chamblee, Ga.
Greets!

Here's what I posted on the FR forum several years ago:

"I compared them with the 40-1197 and 40-1354 in an aperiodic foam 'box' and its mids/HF wasn't quite as good as either of them, though it's a little fuller sounding in the lower octaves above Fs. My main hang-up with it was the surround, it was too lossy and rippled a bit, so had higher distortion even at low SPLs. Cab loading can either help or hinder and all things considered, I chose to return them."

Some specs, though considering how often they change manufacturers and materials, no telling how accurate they are with current units:

70 Hz Fs

0.31 ft^3 Vas (8.78 L)

1.4 Qms

0.47 Qes

0.35187 Qts

6 ohms Re

3.56" dia (9.0424 cm)

9.954"^2 Sd (64.219 cm)

4.3926 N/A BL (calc'd)

Xmax 0.04" (assumed)

89.92 dB/W/m (calc'd)

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Old 30th March 2006, 10:34 PM   #12
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>>> Well said, I think the tweaks for the NSB's on Zilla's site would all be good for this speaker and I intend to try them and will post back.

I dont recall any tweaks posted on my site... but here are some from this site:

http://www.partsexpress.com/projects...e/nsb/nsb2.htm


Tips and Tricks for the NSB's
1. Use rope putty, modeling clay, or speaker sealing caulk on the basket to dampen the ringing of these poor things! Works well. It's pliable, seals very well, and can be taken apart easily if you need to remove your drivers. I've never heard a driver sound worse from having used this on the basket.

2. Making a small 1/4" or so hole in the dustcap will allow more and cleaner excursion with less air noise.

3. Coating the cone can help smooth out the response. Various coatings such as diluted "Tacky glue", diluted Elmer's glue, lacquers, water repellants, etc. seem to subjectively smooth out the response. Some experimentation is needed, along with measurements to confirm listening tests.

4. Making a trim ring works well to hide the nasty square frame of the NSB's. Not only will this improve the looks of the NSB, it can actually smooth out the sound by reducing diffraction. First, flush-mount the driver into the baffle by freehand routing a 1/16" recess around the frame. Now, the trim ring can be placed on top of the driver frame and baffle for a neat, clean looking job.

5. Cutting the hole for these drivers is a little tricky. There is not much room on the flat frame edge to seal the driver if you happen to cut a little large. When cutting the hole, cut it a little small and then round over the front edge lightly and you'll see that the driver seats well.
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