Jordan MLTL Enclosure Sealing - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Full Range

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 20th March 2006, 04:46 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Francisco
Default Jordan MLTL Enclosure Sealing

Hello:

I am in the middle of building the cabinets for the GM MLTL 48", triangle cross-section. Have the boxes together without the tops or bottoms on yet. I have used 3/4" Birch plywood.

As this is my first build, and I have the enclosures still open at this point, is there anything I should do to treat the inside of the cabinets that would help acoustically. Paint? Some sort of resin? Anything? Just leave the bare wood alone?

Looking for some experienced opinions.

cheers
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st March 2006, 10:31 AM   #2
Colin is offline Colin  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
You could try running a thin bead of sealant or wood glue up the inside joins, just as belt and braces approach to sealing where the walls meet. Painting or otherwise sealing the inside surfaces won't make any difference.

Don't overstuff the top section (from just below the driver to the top) - I found with mine that lightly filling this section worked well. (Although you can adjust to suit.)

Look forward to hearing your impressions (and seeing any pics).
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st March 2006, 03:13 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Francisco
Thanks. I have applied sealant to the inside seams.

I will post pics and my listening impression when they are finished.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd March 2006, 04:14 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Francisco
One other newbie question. Does the material the port tube is made out of matter. I immediately answered no, but then thought I should check with you experts. I have the standard plastic tubes, but also have some copper pipe that would work too. Is metal a bad idea?
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd March 2006, 06:14 PM   #5
Colin is offline Colin  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
It may resonate, so I'd stick with the plastic. Some designs even use a cardboard tube. Alternatively, keep the cross-sectional area of the port the same and make a square-section port from wood.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd March 2006, 09:10 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Francisco
Hey Colin:

Thanks for your help. Sounds like you have made these. Did you veneer them? Do you have pictures? I made them out of Birch ply, but I am going to have to use veneer if I want them to look decent.
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd March 2006, 09:04 AM   #7
Colin is offline Colin  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Yes I have built them - I assembled mine about a year ago, meaning to finish them off and haven't felt inclined to take them apart and veneer yet. The cabinets are a bit rough so I may have another go. Here's a pic, with their smaller siblings, the new JXR6.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ceramic-06.jpg (26.4 KB, 299 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd March 2006, 02:51 PM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Francisco
Thanks Colin:

One more questions that I can't tell from the picture. Did you rebate the drivers or just mount them flush?
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2006, 02:47 PM   #9
Colin is offline Colin  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
I mounted the drivers flush but ideally they should be rebated (I didn't have the facility to do this). Rounding out the back of the driver hole will also help prevent reflections from the inside of the front panel.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2006, 09:11 PM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
thinkbad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: in the middle of nowhere
Sharp edges cause irregular response at medium to high freq.
If you don`t have the facility to rebate, you can cover the baffle with felt, or use a mousepad with a cutout for the driver.

JB
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Jordan with a Ribbon MLTL Jim Griffin Full Range 210 18th February 2013 05:58 PM
Jordan VTL / GM MLTL-31 hybrid wallis61 Full Range 8 6th January 2009 03:11 AM
jordan mltl 48 Smokeyone Full Range 161 10th December 2008 03:50 PM
what about sealing the enclosure? gnugear Full Range 2 9th October 2007 09:32 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:02 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2