Hey People,
I¡¦m a happy owner of bob brines FT1600mkII (DIY), listened to them now for about 5 months using a SI T-amp, and I¡¦m happy with them. My music taste is very broad and so far most of the music (as the recording permits it) comes out very nice. I do not listen that loud (just under 80dB max, with some peaks to about 83 dB) and also music with a lot of bass combined with busy mids are coming out nicely. Also Dynamic music like the Boards of Canada are played wonderful. The speakers are unforgiving when it comes to bad recordings, bad recordings just sound¡K.bad. The bass goes down to 40 (F3 = 40) which is for me enough, although in the future I can add a sub). I have build them together with my dad and the idea was that this would be the first project and that a second project would follow (we enjoyed building it, and besides that my father also wants good speaker). The idea was that the second project should be significantly better than the first. We prob. want to stick to full range because we love the coherence and the musicality. So, we have been looking around a bit for some projects and drivers, we want to limit the expenses to around 1300$ max. We narrowed the choices down to 3 projects. ( Bear in mind that the speaker should play all kinds of music!, so it should not shine only for e.g. jazz trio¡¦s and be ¡§so so¡¨ for rock. Every type of music has to sound very good. It should also be dynamic enough (e.g. piano music has to be realistic). And bass should be comparable with the FT1600, so F3 somewhere in the 40¡¦s. Imaging should be good, and soundstage should be deep and wide. Well, you get the idea, the speaker has to be very good ƒº)
1) LT2000 of B. Brines, using a Lowther DX2/3. we have good experience with the FT1600 but we are a bit afraid for the ragged SPL curve and we wonder if it would play all types of music in a good way.
2) Hammer dynamics super 12¡¦s, looks also very interesting, but we fear that these big drivers cannot give the same amount of detail as the LT2000. But we like the idea of widerange/tweeter combo.
3) Diatone 610MA (16ohm), we can prob. obtain a pair in very good condition, for a good price (500$). We would place it in the standard BR, which should give bass somewhere into the 40¡¦s, we could combine it later on with a sub. This one also looks very intriguing, and we have heard a lot of good things about it, the SPL in the will be very smooth, and the bass, mids and highs are suppose to be all very good.
(we would love to try the AER mk1, manger driver etc. etc¡Kbut they are just to expensive)
Anyway, maybe you can give your thoughts about these projects, and maybe add some other ideas. We will be prob. using the SI T-amp, the room is about 30m2, and max SPL will be around 80dB.
Cheers,
Jacob
I¡¦m a happy owner of bob brines FT1600mkII (DIY), listened to them now for about 5 months using a SI T-amp, and I¡¦m happy with them. My music taste is very broad and so far most of the music (as the recording permits it) comes out very nice. I do not listen that loud (just under 80dB max, with some peaks to about 83 dB) and also music with a lot of bass combined with busy mids are coming out nicely. Also Dynamic music like the Boards of Canada are played wonderful. The speakers are unforgiving when it comes to bad recordings, bad recordings just sound¡K.bad. The bass goes down to 40 (F3 = 40) which is for me enough, although in the future I can add a sub). I have build them together with my dad and the idea was that this would be the first project and that a second project would follow (we enjoyed building it, and besides that my father also wants good speaker). The idea was that the second project should be significantly better than the first. We prob. want to stick to full range because we love the coherence and the musicality. So, we have been looking around a bit for some projects and drivers, we want to limit the expenses to around 1300$ max. We narrowed the choices down to 3 projects. ( Bear in mind that the speaker should play all kinds of music!, so it should not shine only for e.g. jazz trio¡¦s and be ¡§so so¡¨ for rock. Every type of music has to sound very good. It should also be dynamic enough (e.g. piano music has to be realistic). And bass should be comparable with the FT1600, so F3 somewhere in the 40¡¦s. Imaging should be good, and soundstage should be deep and wide. Well, you get the idea, the speaker has to be very good ƒº)
1) LT2000 of B. Brines, using a Lowther DX2/3. we have good experience with the FT1600 but we are a bit afraid for the ragged SPL curve and we wonder if it would play all types of music in a good way.
2) Hammer dynamics super 12¡¦s, looks also very interesting, but we fear that these big drivers cannot give the same amount of detail as the LT2000. But we like the idea of widerange/tweeter combo.
3) Diatone 610MA (16ohm), we can prob. obtain a pair in very good condition, for a good price (500$). We would place it in the standard BR, which should give bass somewhere into the 40¡¦s, we could combine it later on with a sub. This one also looks very intriguing, and we have heard a lot of good things about it, the SPL in the will be very smooth, and the bass, mids and highs are suppose to be all very good.
(we would love to try the AER mk1, manger driver etc. etc¡Kbut they are just to expensive)
Anyway, maybe you can give your thoughts about these projects, and maybe add some other ideas. We will be prob. using the SI T-amp, the room is about 30m2, and max SPL will be around 80dB.
Cheers,
Jacob
So your looking for excellent sound and you are willing to spend to get it.
Hmm, I made a suggestion a while back on a JX6r thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=72436&pagenumber=3
(i.e. the single jx6r and 2 bandor 150's paralleled per side)
You'll need to work out a few things and do some modeling, (in particular impeadance BEFORE purchasing the Bandors - and these drives give a lot of flexibility with impedance values), but it should provide everything your looking for AND offer in room extension to 18 Hz (flat) with venting tuned at around 18 Hz (with the appropriate box volume). Provided you use no "stuffing" and only minor absorptive padding on interior walls (or using nasa paint additive*), clarity/transparency should F A R exceed what your listening to now (and indeed most commercial offerings at any price).
(for the inductor - look to the copper Goertz models)
* http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html
Hmm, I made a suggestion a while back on a JX6r thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=72436&pagenumber=3
(i.e. the single jx6r and 2 bandor 150's paralleled per side)
You'll need to work out a few things and do some modeling, (in particular impeadance BEFORE purchasing the Bandors - and these drives give a lot of flexibility with impedance values), but it should provide everything your looking for AND offer in room extension to 18 Hz (flat) with venting tuned at around 18 Hz (with the appropriate box volume). Provided you use no "stuffing" and only minor absorptive padding on interior walls (or using nasa paint additive*), clarity/transparency should F A R exceed what your listening to now (and indeed most commercial offerings at any price).
(for the inductor - look to the copper Goertz models)
* http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html
You like the FT1600 but want more? That'll be a Lowther then.
Ragged response curve? True, but our hearing is amplitude based, as GM pointed out to me a while back, so we key off the peaks. The response on the Lowthers only really becomes ragged out of the critical midband, so it's not that important either. I doubt you'd be disappointed.
Or the Bandor / Jordan suggestion above or course: could be promising.
Ragged response curve? True, but our hearing is amplitude based, as GM pointed out to me a while back, so we key off the peaks. The response on the Lowthers only really becomes ragged out of the critical midband, so it's not that important either. I doubt you'd be disappointed.
Or the Bandor / Jordan suggestion above or course: could be promising.
Lowthers!
I have the Fostex FE-164 (older brother of the FE-167E) and any of the Lowthers is a big step up. Same type of frequency response but much more detailed and revealing. The Fostex is good but the Lowther makes the Fostex sound as if it is playing beind a curtain. When demo'ing my projects I play the Fostex FE-164 ML TQWT first and the listener is very impressed, then I play the Lowthers and the listener is shocked. If I played them in reverse order people would not like the Fostex, but that would be wrong since the Fostex is really a good driver. The Lowther is just a great driver.
I have the Fostex FE-164 (older brother of the FE-167E) and any of the Lowthers is a big step up. Same type of frequency response but much more detailed and revealing. The Fostex is good but the Lowther makes the Fostex sound as if it is playing beind a curtain. When demo'ing my projects I play the Fostex FE-164 ML TQWT first and the listener is very impressed, then I play the Lowthers and the listener is shocked. If I played them in reverse order people would not like the Fostex, but that would be wrong since the Fostex is really a good driver. The Lowther is just a great driver.
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