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Old 27th January 2006, 08:29 AM   #1
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Default Pictures of GM MLTL-48?

Very soon, I am going to build the GM MLTL-48 on the Jordan site. I am going to build the triangle version.

Does anyone who has built this very have a few pictures to post. I would love to see them.

Thanks
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Old 30th January 2006, 02:08 AM   #2
abpea is offline abpea  United States
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Hello PrimaLuna,

I just finished these two weeks ago. This is my third pair I've built. I love this speaker and I can't give GM enough thanks and credit for developing such a wondeful speaker.

I ** HIGHLY ** reccommend this speaker! Sounds fantastic and has huge WAF. Build it, I promise you won't be sorry.

Here is my left GM MLTL48er:
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File Type: gif mltl48a.gif (97.1 KB, 962 views)
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Old 30th January 2006, 02:09 AM   #3
abpea is offline abpea  United States
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Here's the right one:
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File Type: gif mltl48b.gif (91.8 KB, 856 views)
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Old 30th January 2006, 03:24 AM   #4
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Thanks. Just what I was looking for. A few questions if you don't mind.

How did you round the corners?

And, is that an equilateral triangle or did you give them a wider front side?

Beautiful. Good job. I can't wait to get started.
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Old 30th January 2006, 04:53 AM   #5
Dumbass is offline Dumbass  British Antarctic Territory
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Whoa, nice woodwork!

Looks like isosceles right triangle. One neat thing about that, besides fitting perfectly into a corner, is that you get reflections of the rear-wave that effectively cancel each other, without interfering with the pipe action (Ron Clarke's back horn designs use this strategy).

I'll bet those books on either side work as nice diffusers/absorbers.

I'll just add one comment: those cones are really fragile, and the shiny driver attracts the fingers of children of all ages. Rich Drysdale's got a dent thanks to a toddler nephew. You might want to consider some sort of grille.
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Old 30th January 2006, 10:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dumbass
Whoa, nice woodwork!

Looks like isosceles right triangle. One neat thing about that, besides fitting perfectly into a corner, is that you get reflections of the rear-wave that effectively cancel each other, without interfering with the pipe action (Ron Clarke's back horn designs use this strategy).
...[snip]
Cancelling reflections?

This is something I don't understand. Can anyone please explain to me how this works?

/Peter
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Old 30th January 2006, 12:55 PM   #7
abpea is offline abpea  United States
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Here are the dimensions for GM's MLTL 48"er that I use:

(All dimensions internal)

Baffle = 11"
Sides = 7.75"
L = 48.0"
XO = 15.45"
Vent = 2" wide x 2.75" long (center of vent is 4" above bottom)
Stuffing = 0.54lb

I used a 3/4" round over bit in my router to do the edges. I still need to put the mahogany cap and base on them when it warms up a little more and I get some more time.

We are moving those book cases and the speakers will eventually be in the corner next to both walls but for the moment they sound wonderful right where they are.

This is my third set of these speakers I've built and everytime I listen to them I am amazed at the sound that comes out of them. I had a friend over this weekend who works in a high end audio shop in town. I played them for him and he got down and put his ear up to the port, turned them around and really checked them out. Then he started looking under and behind the other furniture in the room. Said he swore I had a bigger driver stashed in the room somewhere!

I have measured these down to 35Hz which is amazing when you think about it and just shows what a great job GM did when he designed them.

I enjoy these speakers tremendously, I'm sure you will too.

Bruce
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Old 30th January 2006, 01:35 PM   #8
abpea is offline abpea  United States
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Here's a picture of the top of one of the speakers.

Internally each side is 7.75" wide and the inside width of the baffle is 11". The external width of the front baffle is 13.5".

I used 1x (which is actuall 3/4" thick) #1 clear white pine for the sides, top and bottom. I doubled the tops and bottoms meaning I used two tops and bottoms on each cabinet. I know solid wood isn't stable, it moves and can split, etc. and I should have used 3/4" plywood... I'm experimenting here so just go with me on this

The baffle is a full 1" thick piece of African mahogany with some other African hardwood whose name I can't remember right now. I found this plank on the junk pile at my lumberyard and grabbed it. It has a very nice reddish color, is very dense and hard. Looks good with the mahogany!
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Old 30th January 2006, 03:45 PM   #9
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They are striking.

One more question if you are willing: What is the benefit of deviating from the equilateral triangle design to the isosolese triangle? Is is purely aesethic? Or does it enhance any aspects of driver performance?

I understand the idea that if you keep the speaker box volume consistent, you can adjust the design to your liking.

Thanks
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Old 30th January 2006, 04:09 PM   #10
abpea is offline abpea  United States
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Hey PrimaLuna,

The shape of the triangle doesn't have anything to do with aesethics. GM designed the speaker with a specific cross-section area (~30 square inches).

You can make your cabinet an equalateral triangle if you like as long as the cross-section area equals ~ 30 square inches. Be sure and draw it out first, measure the dimensions of the speaker and check to be sure the speaker will fit in the cabinet you design. When you have the choice GM recommends using a wider baffle for this cabinet than not.

Have fun and I hope that helps.

Bruce
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