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Old 21st December 2005, 06:01 PM   #21
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I installed big phase plugs on my 12inch Tannoy fullrangers. They have a horn tweeter sitting on the end of the phase plug. I was really surprised at how much cleaner it made the top end sound.

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Old 21st December 2005, 06:14 PM   #22
Kensai is offline Kensai  United States
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So you're saying that I could probably improve the performance of my Kenwood KFC-6949s by modding them with a phase plug? They're 6"x9" speaks with round whizzer. When I EQ these things, I spend more effort flattening out from 2kHz up than I do trying to pump up the bottom end (I can get about 45Hz at -3dB and around 35Hz at -10dB with very minimal EQ in OB config; definitely not enough to color or distort the mids or highs). The Kens easily beat my 16kHz hearing barrier, but they have tons of peaking at various points from 2kHz on up?

Other than just the Kens, where could I find info on how to do this sort of mod, and where might I find a source for parts (or do they have to be custom machined)?

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Old 21st December 2005, 06:17 PM   #23
badman is offline badman  United States
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I have a tough time getting past the way Zu spec's the druid. It's TOTAL ******** speccing, I even like the design, I minimalize crossovers in the midrange in my own designs, sometimes not using them at all, but the claims they make are hard to get past.

Per Zu website:

Sensitivity: 101 dB
Bandwidth: 35Hz - 25kHz
Power Handling: 300 Watts

********! Throw 300WRMS at that driver and it'll melt. Throw 35Hz at it and it'll be about 75dB w/m. And the midrange driver, phase plugged or no, is not giving 101dB w/M.

One of my criteria for a speaker system I'm working on is 35Hz f3, at high (97dB) efficiency into 8 ohms..... guess what.... without infinite baffle, it's awful hard 'cause you gotta start with more like 101dB or so to get that kinda bass post baffle step......

In other words..... I call bullhonkey on Zu!
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Old 21st December 2005, 06:36 PM   #24
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Hi frequency peaking is exactly the thing that a phase plug will address.
It works by eliminating some of the interference created when the waveform from the opposite sides of the driver meet in the middle and create an interference pattern. The phase plug sort of guides the waves to a focus where the interaction is more predicatable and spread over a smaller frequency range. Only at the higher frequencies are these effects significant.

Planet10's web site might have a technical explanation of the process of adding a phase plug.

Shoog
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Old 22nd December 2005, 12:17 AM   #25
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anyone try a phase plug on the Visaton B200 yet??
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Old 22nd December 2005, 12:57 AM   #26
Kensai is offline Kensai  United States
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Thanks, Shoog. That's pretty much all the info I'll need for this project.

Kensai
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Old 23rd December 2005, 06:29 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by loudandclear
anyone try a phase plug on the Visaton B200 yet??
Someone want to buy me a pair -- or volenteer theirs?

dave
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Old 15th June 2006, 08:04 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by loudandclear
anyone try a phase plug on the Visaton B200 yet??
Dave has installed phase plugs on my B200's. I've got a second pair of drivers on the way so once I get a couple hundred hours on them I'll be able to do a before and after comparison.

J
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Old 15th June 2006, 08:57 PM   #29
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The 2nd one just yesterday. Trying to set up a head-to-head with the Silver Iris before i ship them back.

dave
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Old 15th June 2006, 10:33 PM   #30
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Default MY two cents

I've tried pairing old RatShack 40-1534s, both sharing the front baffle, both running full range in a 1.5 cu.ft. ported box tuned to 50hz. Yes, there was much more bass. But problems cropped up, like the interaction twix the whizzer and main cone being exaccerbated by having two drivers pointed the same direction and a shrunken soundstage (though I believe a bipolar config would solve those problems). Power handling also declines whenever you put a driver (especially a fullranger) in an over sized, ported box.

Single driver is 'where its at' for imaging, if that's your thing. For bass...multiple drivers or larger drivers, or...just better drivers.

One could always build/buy a powered sub, as long as it played real low.
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