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Old 17th December 2005, 04:55 AM   #11
soongsc is offline soongsc  Taiwan
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I think is really fun to look through all Teds drivers and see how they have evolved. There are lots of different ways that certain things were done at each time that makes this really interesting. Perhaps there should be some kind of club.
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Old 17th December 2005, 10:50 AM   #12
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Hi Colin,

Yes I tried this - it is achieved by simply removing the binding
posts connector (I can switch the tweeter in and out at will).

I must say I prefer the sound with it switched in, particulalry at high volume levels where the Jordan seems to compress the treble somewhat (and of course the beaming is sometimes a problem). This is still under research, however.
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Old 17th December 2005, 11:25 AM   #13
Colin is offline Colin  United Kingdom
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Hi - All down to personal preferences, I guess. I haven't found the beaming a problem with the recommended toe-in. In fact, the imaging deteriorates when moved to more conventional positioning. However, it's all fun to experiment.

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Old 19th December 2005, 03:45 PM   #14
soongsc is offline soongsc  Taiwan
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Quote:
Originally posted by rjb

Back to the J-W., the suspension is by three tangental berilium wires, (coated as berilium is poisonous). They are soldered to tags on the frame, which can move if the unit is mistreated, physically or electrically. I have to recentre the cones twice because of this. This requires removing the aluminium plate, (four screws), carefully lifting the rubber suspension surround which is glued to the frame, and inserting a slim soldering iron in the gap. Fiddly, but not difficult with care.
Note carefully the position, (depth) of the coil in the gap. You will need to duplicate this later.
Unsolder the wires from the tags on the frame, (two are used to feed the coil), then the cone will come out.
The cone is not linear, so take care if trying to smooth out bumps.
Assembly is the reverse. I used four long narrow lengths of thin paper to centre the coil in the gap, (a light interference fit), and to adjust the depth of cone in the gap. The paper will pull out after soldering the wires to the tags.

Re the hole in the cone, this is in the centre of the "dust cap" which actually is designed as a radiator to improve HF. To damping the edges, it has a small piece of foam glued across it. Without the foam the unit sounds "edgy". (This system also assists cooling).

rjb,

When you mention removing the aluminum plate, is that the plate under the black foam around the rubber suspension? Are the screws under the foam or are they the screws located at the back of the housing?
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Old 20th December 2005, 05:18 AM   #15
rjb is online now rjb  New Zealand
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I am working from memory of a few years back, so I just hope the following is right and I have not forgotten anything. Please note this is E&OE, all care no responsibility.

You work from the front. Carefully peel off the flat black rubber damping material, from memory a rubber foam material, to get at the flat Al plate, which is held in place by countersunk pk screws into the plastic housing. Before removing this plate, you also have to carefully peel off the roll suspension surround. The plate then comes off, by feeding the suspension roll gently through the hole in the plate. This leaves the cone and suspension in place, but rather flapping around, in the square plastic casing.

Do not under any circumstances undo the screws in the back, this holds the magnet assembly in place, and letting this free will damage things.

The roll surround remains on the cone.

By holding back the roll surround you can get at the tags that hold the beryillium wires at the housing end. Note carefully the depth the coil in the gap.
Assembly from this point is simply the reverse.

To disassemble further you have two options. Either undo the screws holding the tags, or unsolder the wires. Either is a bit frought with problems when reassembling.

If you unsolder the wires. take great care not to damage the roll surround with the hot iron. On reassembly the coil needs to be held by paper shims central in the gap, and at the right depth. I did this, and it worked out ok taking considerable care, but I'm not sure it is the best way.

The alternative is to leave the tags on the wires, but remove the screws holding them. The problem here is tightening the screws tends to twist the wires and displace the coil.

The magnet is very strong and it is difficult to use steel tools in the small space allowed between the rigid cone and the plastic housing.

It may pay to email Ted Jorden and ask his advice.

When reglueing the roll suspension and foam, I used a low strength silicone I knew I could peal off again if necessary.

The real question is why do you want to remove the coil and cone from the housing. If it is simply to recentre the cone it may not be necessary to disconnect the wires. Simply adjusting the tags may work. If it is to remove a minor ding in the cone, I suggest you leave well alone.

I would not recommend you dissassmble these units unless there is good cause, and you have played with other speakers in the past. However, with care, it is not impossible.

Email me if you need further info, Good luck.
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Old 20th December 2005, 08:51 AM   #16
soongsc is offline soongsc  Taiwan
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Thanks rjb,

I have a total of five of these, two have deformed cones with coils rubbing gainst something, and one seems to have a rubbing coil. Two are working fine, but I did a test and found the response to have s sudden drop at 10KHz, but the 10K to 20K portion seem quite flat, very weird.
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Old 20th December 2005, 12:04 PM   #17
Colin is offline Colin  United Kingdom
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It might be worth monitoring ebay.com - Ted mentioned a couple of weeks ago that there was a guy in Canada with a number of Jordan modules to sell.
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Old 20th December 2005, 12:55 PM   #18
soongsc is offline soongsc  Taiwan
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Quote:
Originally posted by Colin
It might be worth monitoring ebay.com - Ted mentioned a couple of weeks ago that there was a guy in Canada with a number of Jordan modules to sell.
Sounds like a good idea. I'm really interested in looking for different models that I currently don't have, and fix the ones I do. The various designs really provide lots of inspiration, especially when they are based on broad considerations. Most other designers really seldom take the time for overall understanding of sound reproduction which really involves electromechanical, material, structural, aerodynamics, and acoustic waves as well.
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Old 20th December 2005, 07:17 PM   #19
Triumph is offline Triumph  Netherlands
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Keladrin

My ears are older than yours and still they benefit from adding frequencies far above my normal hearing range. Even if you can not hear anything above 16k you will notice a difference. I sometimes ask my wife to listen. Most of the woman can hear better then men (but not always responding).

You mentioned that the tweeter adds something and you miss it when disconnecting it. That is also my experience. The jx92s can benefit if you are adding a (super) tweeter. Still I recommend connecting it with a 1e order XO on the tweeter with a much higher cutting off point. In your AE the tweeter kicks in at 3k and probably goes to 22k. But your jx92s is producing the same frequencies. In this way you can expect phase disparities. It is now more difficult to get a direct more involved sound. Try cutting the tweeter with a simple 1e order filter. The sound from 100Hz to 12k is produced then solo by the Jordan.

How to do this. Simply disconnect the tweeter from the filter and connect it with a 3.0 uF cap from good quality (minimal MKP) straight to the input terminals (if it is a 4 ohm tweeter otherwise you have to calculate a different value of the cap). Thatís it. So just a few pennyís for 1 cap. See also on post #58 on the previous referred thread.

It now kicks in at 13k. I have a more accurate graph of the frequencies response of the jx92s and there youíll see that there is a 10dB reduce starting at 15k and getting back in line at 18k. The tweeter will fill that gap nicely and even flattens/adds some more at higher freqs. The roll of starting at 3,5k is not interesting to me because I have the best seat in the house just in the middle of the speakers and pointed straight to me.

What you will probably notice is that the sound has less mid and there is maybe less tremble. But there must be high enough because there is no cutting off from high frequencies. Its should be more in balance. But if you focus on the stage performance there must be a change. It is like the instruments and vocals appear on the right place you can pinpoint their place more accurate between and even outside your speakers.

Lets make things (even) better!
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Old 20th December 2005, 11:03 PM   #20
rjb is online now rjb  New Zealand
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Soongsc
You have nothing to loose by taking one driver, (the worst damaged) apart. At least you will know how its put together, and with luck you should be able to fix. These drivers are very prone to coil rubbing because the tags fastening the suspension wires to the housing tend to shift.

Re adding a tweeter, in the original J-W info and cabinet designs, , the Jodrell and Jupiter designs used an MTM arrangement (16 ohm JWs in parl) with an 8 ohm "HF" unit (unspecified), fed by a 2mfd cap and 50 ohm series pot. The GT was similar, using one 8 ohm J-W. The recommended postioning of the cabinets is hard against the wall. The curve of the unit alone seems to droop above 10K, unlike the modern ones which rise. That was typical in those days to reduce the effects of clicks,pops and noise.
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