I don't have the means to turn a sperical/egg shaped enclosure, I do have a table saw though so inspired by Kingdaddys octagonal SST8: http://www.geocities.com/kingdaddykeith/Kingdaddys_SST8_Prototype.html?1011198404840
I have reduced the sides to 6 and come up with the hexagonal egg (the Hegg).
As drawn below it is proportioned for looks, and to approach hemisphere like shape on the front. Size is 240Hx280Wx370D, 18mm MDF, which gives about 10litres.
Plan is to cross to the sub at about 120Hz.
Any comments before I start cutting in earnest tomorrow?
I have reduced the sides to 6 and come up with the hexagonal egg (the Hegg).
As drawn below it is proportioned for looks, and to approach hemisphere like shape on the front. Size is 240Hx280Wx370D, 18mm MDF, which gives about 10litres.
Plan is to cross to the sub at about 120Hz.
Any comments before I start cutting in earnest tomorrow?
Attachments
Well I did these with a tablesaw and a router (mine is table mounted). I cut a lot of rings with my table mounted router using a roto-zip spiral bit. I stacked and glued them. There were a few things I learned during the process that would make things a little easier next time around.
You don't need a lathe to do these. It is a lot of work; but very rewarding.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=274619&stamp=1070388961
You don't need a lathe to do these. It is a lot of work; but very rewarding.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=274619&stamp=1070388961
No theory. Once I got into it and had a look at my mock up stack; I liked the look of the round over ridges. Since I live on an island on the west coast of Canada I thought it lended itself to a sea-shell look. Hence the textured coral varigated colour.
Have fun with your project. It feels good to create with ones hands. I build a lot of furniture for friends and family.
Have fun with your project. It feels good to create with ones hands. I build a lot of furniture for friends and family.
almost finished
This is as close as I get to finished. Maybe in the summer I will spray everything dark grey.
At the moment I am using the AV amp bass management to cross to the subs (mono). I can alter the crossover from 40Hz to 200Hz, but I'm having trouble deciding what I like best. I guess I don't have a well developed listening ear.
This is bad news because I need to decide crossver point for bi-amping.
Also, should I be able to hear a diference when I reverse the phase on the subs?
It may be a bit tedious but can I get the frequency response by using a signal generator and my RS sound meter? Do I use A or C weighting? At what db level (75?)
This is as close as I get to finished. Maybe in the summer I will spray everything dark grey.
At the moment I am using the AV amp bass management to cross to the subs (mono). I can alter the crossover from 40Hz to 200Hz, but I'm having trouble deciding what I like best. I guess I don't have a well developed listening ear.
This is bad news because I need to decide crossver point for bi-amping.
Also, should I be able to hear a diference when I reverse the phase on the subs?
It may be a bit tedious but can I get the frequency response by using a signal generator and my RS sound meter? Do I use A or C weighting? At what db level (75?)
Attachments
Thanks. I'm pleased with the design. Feedback from visitors is positive and they are very touchable - people like to feel the curves.
The drivers themselves look great, one reason I bought them was for the copper phase plug!
The drainpipe sections are too flexible, as I knew they would be, and will be replaced with metal tubes in due course.
The drivers themselves look great, one reason I bought them was for the copper phase plug!
The drainpipe sections are too flexible, as I knew they would be, and will be replaced with metal tubes in due course.
They are 9 litres.
I say the pipe is too flexible from a purely mechanical view, I have no idea if I will be able to hear a difference when I stiffen them.
Filling with sand would greatly complicate assembly and disassembly. I would first want to know why people fill their speaker stands with sand. I guess it is to stop the ringing you might get with metal. hmmmm.... perhaps I will need to consider this when I go to metal pipes. Maybe I could have fabricated 2 concentric tubes and put sand in the gap.
or maybe I should just stiffen my plastic tubes.
I say the pipe is too flexible from a purely mechanical view, I have no idea if I will be able to hear a difference when I stiffen them.
Filling with sand would greatly complicate assembly and disassembly. I would first want to know why people fill their speaker stands with sand. I guess it is to stop the ringing you might get with metal. hmmmm.... perhaps I will need to consider this when I go to metal pipes. Maybe I could have fabricated 2 concentric tubes and put sand in the gap.
or maybe I should just stiffen my plastic tubes.
For the tubes; have you considered make a hexagonal post out of mdf or other material? If you need to hide wire in the post you can cut a slot through the middle of the post. For my stands I use 3/4"mdf (2pieces). I cut matching slots on opposing pieces, then glue them to together creating an interior channel for the speaker wires.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.