Has anyone tried this little 3" fullrange speaker? The specs looks quite good. Insanely good considering the price.
I was thinking about a 2-way system with this as mid/high and a lightweight 8" woofer with a crossoverpoint between 250 and 400 Hz. Do you think it would work?
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=5021707.20017&pid=1757
I was thinking about a 2-way system with this as mid/high and a lightweight 8" woofer with a crossoverpoint between 250 and 400 Hz. Do you think it would work?
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=5021707.20017&pid=1757
I'v got a pair in a set-up with a pair of T B W4-992S and run off my computer an they sound very good IMHO. 
Just got another idea for this project. What do you think about mounting the fullrange driver without any box behind it? I'll try to explain my idea...
Picture the complete speaker as a lower case "b" when you look at it from the side. You have the vented enclosure for the 8" woofer in the lower part of the speaker, but the front baffel continues upwards and the 3" driver is just mounted in the middle och the part of the front that goes over the bass enclosure. (It's not easy to explain something when english isn't your native language 😉 )
Wouldn't that create a fairly "airy" sound?
Picture the complete speaker as a lower case "b" when you look at it from the side. You have the vented enclosure for the 8" woofer in the lower part of the speaker, but the front baffel continues upwards and the 3" driver is just mounted in the middle och the part of the front that goes over the bass enclosure. (It's not easy to explain something when english isn't your native language 😉 )
Wouldn't that create a fairly "airy" sound?
Mikael Abdellah said:
Open baffle mid-tweeter XOed to a sealed or vented woofer. A great idea... not original but it does work. The baffle should be wide enuff that the dipole roll-off is at or below the frequency you want to cut it off. The mid-tweeter will need a filter -- active would be best.
dave
Mikael Abdellah said:
There was a long discussion on this... the right answer is to download The Edge or Thorsten's OB spreadsheet
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/downloads.html
the short answer -- IIRC -- was 0.25 x WL = minimum width. Driver Q and room placement all play a role so that is a very loose guide.
dave
I have studied the document briefly but I can't understand it. Where do I enter the data for my driver and wich sheet shows the oben baffle data?
This may be more then you want but its along the same lines OB over a BR box http://www.madisound.com/pdf/fostexcabs/137_85k_tallboy.pdf
I started building the speakers last night. so far I am half finished with one of the 2 speakers. There is one thing i wonder. Should I dampen the sides for the open baffle 3" fullrange or should i leave the boards naked?
planet10 said:
Hi,
86/87dB woofer crossed over 1st order series should be OK.
c/o point is dependent on box / baffle width.
🙂/sreten.
Aura 3"
I built a pair of very slim mltl towers that perform amazingly well considering the size of driver.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-4/1255358/Audio.jpg
By the way. Thanks for the se kt88 amp design. I`ve been using it for a while now and it sounds great.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-4/1255358/0-Audio003.jpg
Steve.
I built a pair of very slim mltl towers that perform amazingly well considering the size of driver.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-4/1255358/Audio.jpg
By the way. Thanks for the se kt88 amp design. I`ve been using it for a while now and it sounds great.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-4/1255358/0-Audio003.jpg
Steve.
Progress on these speakers has been slow lately but today I managed to get one of them more or less finished. The speakers need some time to break in but already they sound really sweet. The 8" woofer provides a lot of deep tight bass and the voices are crystal clear. I will provide more information about the box dimensions and pictures later on. The speaker is made up of one SPH-212 and one NS3-194-8E
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