Terry Cain's BIB -why does it work and does anyone have those Fostex Craft Handbooks? - Page 9 - diyAudio
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Old 23rd November 2005, 07:58 PM   #81
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Smile scale, size and physical impact...

I have used the RS 1197s which are similar to the 103’s. It’s my opinion you can use these drivers in cabinets that maximize their bass response, hear all the notes and enjoy but… a sub is a nice upgrade. Specifically, a sub adds scale and size to the music. The bottom registers of a piano played thru these drivers alone do not accurately portray the size of the instrument… add a sub and presto, you’ve gone from a smaller sounding piano to a grand (assuming a grand is being played).

Bottom line, without sub you will hear everything… with sub you will also ‘feel’ everything.
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Old 23rd November 2005, 10:00 PM   #82
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As my moniker suggests, I'm pretty new to all this...hopefully building my first pair of DIY speakers over the holiday weekend (Cyburg Needles). Been eagerly lurking this thread because of course, I'm already trolling for my next project.

That said, I've got a few thoughts I'd love to have shot down for the pedestian tripe they probably are:

In Terry's write-up on the fullrange site, he never mentions "half the wavelength of the driver fs", or tuning the cabinet, or Qms, or Xmax, or anything except "bigger is better" and "the design shown here tends to debunk a lof of currently accepted design methodology". Best clue he gives as to why this design works is that it loads the ceiling.

Now, he doesn't say how high the ceiling is in his room, but the 70" heights seems like it would do the job nicely in a typical 8 footer like I have. Lowering the back of the cabinet seems like it might get a little more of that front corner working for you, but other than that I don't think shortening the cabinet is the way to go. I like this:

Quote:
Originally posted by Shoog
...with the big pipe designs such as the BIB, they are very forgiving of driver swapping and will happily go from a 6" to a 8" without to much trouble.
Seems like a big, forgiving cabinet could be just as happy with a 4" as with a 6" or 8". Any thoughts?

Another question: is the circular baffle a critical contributor to the sound, or is that just a design element that Terry throws in to remind us that we'll never be able to do woodwork as well as him? If not, I think a removeable baffle ala Godzilla would be the way to go, especially with all these great $20-$40 drivers around.
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Old 24th November 2005, 05:29 PM   #83
TC is offline TC  United States
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Quote:
n Terry's write-up on the fullrange site, he never mentions "half the wavelength of the driver fs", or tuning the cabinet, or Qms, or Xmax, or anything except "bigger is better"
I don't ever talk engineering except "in house", I am here only for entertainment purposes . And bigger is better, you should hear those Kleinhorns!

TC
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Old 25th November 2005, 01:10 AM   #84
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For all, what is the best material for a set of BIB's 3/4 MDF or Plywood? On smaller cabs say bookshelf has anyone used solid wood ie: apple wood made like you wood a cabinet door 2" strips biscuit and glued together. I realize this is not a FR speaker question per say but the cab is for single drivers. All your thoughts are greatly appreciated!

TC, I don't know if this falls under eng. but here goes, since your a master cabinet maker ( I've seen your site beautiful work) IF... I choose to use plywood Maple good one side for a set of BIB's how can you get rid of the plywood look (talking about the edges here) short of ripping the edges at 45 deg. through out. I would prefer not to show the edges at all. This only applies to the front panel of course, the back I'm not concerned with.



PS: dmason >>can't seem to translate www.spectrumaudio.de with google through firefox?? Ideas?? Have you purchased a pair yet if so how much deliverd to your door?


Mark
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Old 25th November 2005, 01:24 AM   #85
dmason is offline dmason  United States
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Airframe

There are English links on the site. The important stuff is numbers and prices and FR plots anyway. "Breitband" button means broadband (driver,) in German.

Don't know what TC will have to say but FWIW, I recently built a second pair of BIB, these for the Fostex FE168ESigma. I used 3/4 void free Birch ply. I felt this is a very good place to use the good stuff because of the opportunity for the line to resonate, or not, depending on material used. Besides, MDF is the WORST material for speaker enclosures. Sounds like you have access to some Annapolis Valley fruitwoods ...... I had a shop do the cuts, who had a full size table, these are some 66 inches tall, also to rout 3/4 roundovers to wrap the works in some Cherry veneer I had stashed for such a project. Tall, slender and elegant, the finished product is very handsome in my living room right now. I am meaning to turn some concentric baffles for them, (yes they do work, and in no subtle way, having owned the Abbys, and heard the Bens,) but the finished BIB's as they are are so nicely finished, I am loathe to change anything, really.
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Old 25th November 2005, 04:38 PM   #86
TC is offline TC  United States
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airframe,,, you can use a rabetted joint that leaves a 1/4x1/4 slot tobe filled with solid wood and then rounded. Or you can mitre and rout the groove later for 1/4" solids. I like just a mitred edge as it is also fastest. ANother thing is you can make the front out of solid wood and cover the ply end panels.

I avoid mdf like the plague. Bad for sonics, health, and just well, bad. Also biscuits ar best for mitred framing and corner work. I avoid them when doing most joinery. In edge glued panels they actually weaken assemblies.

TC
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Old 26th November 2005, 11:18 PM   #87
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Thankx Terry, I'll probably use the rabbit edge (pun) and thanx for the original design by the way, seems many have build them and enjoy them a grate deal, I will post my project once completed. Any chance you can post a better detailed drawing of BIB's on single driver?


Mark
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Old 1st March 2006, 10:48 PM   #88
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Did anyone give it a try with the Monacors and ScottMoose's cabinet? I am planning to bring some drivers back after I visit the states in a couple of months, and I am thinking of trying a pair of these in the BIB and another pair OB.
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Old 3rd March 2006, 09:32 AM   #89
Danne72 is offline Danne72  Sweden
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Default Howe about this driver?

Tangband W6-789.
It looks pretty good to me!
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Old 7th March 2006, 12:06 PM   #90
MuaDibb is offline MuaDibb  United States
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Hey guys, I have been reading through this forum and trying to figure out the best BIB to build. Lots of input and lots of choice between speakers and cabinet sizes. Still I am wondering, it seems like an issue with this speaker, and the Voight Pipe for that matter, is that the SO ends at zero. It seems the general consensus is that this is not a good thing. The Abby added area to the top of the speaker and this was deemed a good thing. The BIB is basically the same thing only folded in half. Yes, or close anyway? Well could it help the speaker to add some area where SO=0? Sort of like an upsidedown Cyburg Needle? I would like to hear some thoughts on this and not the "hey try it out see if it works". I would like to have some supporting opinions to justify the build time and expense.

Mathcad Help: I would like to model this, I used the TQWT sheet to model a Voight, but The BIB doesn't have a port so what do I do with those numbers on the sheet? Also is it possibe to even model what I have described? Also what will need to be changed as far as cabinet geometry for the BIB? Thanks for listening. TOM
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