Terry Cain's BIB -why does it work and does anyone have those Fostex Craft Handbooks? - Page 34 - diyAudio
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Old 13th April 2006, 11:00 PM   #331
GM is online now GM  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by fred76
Hi GM,

Would the RTF64 would have almost as as large if not larger dims than the Hemp 8?

Would the 165 GMF sim as bad as the 165 LB?
Greets!

Yes, see my previous post.

Who says they sim bad? Anyway, the only difference between them in this BIB is that the 165LB rolls off down low similar to the original's 40-1354 while the 165 GMF stays ~flat to cut-off:

L = 105.93"
Sm = 220"^2
driver down 23.03" from the top.

GM
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Old 13th April 2006, 11:06 PM   #332
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scottmoose
Perhaps, if painted correctly, you could pretend you had a couple of submarine's sails (conning towers) in your living room?
Paint the speakers/wall Stealth Gray, they'll 'fly' right under the enemy's radar.

GM
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Old 13th April 2006, 11:10 PM   #333
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>>> Frankly, even though I've posted some scaled down BIB designs, I would prefer a separate webpage distinct from the BIB one for a bottom firing configuration...

What do you envision here GM? Perhaps I can create another site dedicated to these other types of designs? It can all be linked together with the BIB site... sortof a sister page.

Soon the BIB site will be finished for all the data i have from Scott will be posted. Tho i would like to post pics from individuals that build future BIBs... and anyone that wants to offer an essay or article regarding BIBs i will post.

I would also like to further build the BIB site as designs continue to come my way.

Peace,
Godzilla
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Old 13th April 2006, 11:27 PM   #334
GM is online now GM  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by ultrakaz
GM,

Would appreciate comments on:

1) What would be the effect of cutting the top at an angle to increase the mouth opening by about 50%?

2) Would turning the BiB upside down for the shorter designs be preferable to the elongated load towards the ceiling?

3) If using BiB as a subwoofer, would big VAS be preferable? Say from <100Hz-150Hz?

Thanks.
Greets!

1) It will shorten the effective line length and create a 'faster' flare rate, ergo will be tuned higher and shift its harmonics somewhat.

2) It is to me.

3) High Vas is preferable in a wide BW compression loaded horn. For TL variations, a moderate Vas combined with a medium Qts is best to keep size semi-reasonable. The main thing is to not use very stiffly sprung units that work well in tiny cabs with PRs. These are more suited to ~high compression LF/midbass horns.

For sub duty, low Fs, medium Vas, Qts, is the goal. Regardless, a BIB isn't a good idea unless you map your room's modes and design one with an inverse FR to ~match it. Better to mass load it to keep size semi-reasonable and reduce the ripple in its passband.

GM
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Old 13th April 2006, 11:37 PM   #335
GM is online now GM  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Godzilla
[BWhat do you envision here GM?

I would also like to further build the BIB site as designs continue to come my way.[/B]
Greets!

Yeah, a link to another page for drivers that don't make the BIB 'cut' would be nice, which means I need to re-do the designs for the ones I've already posted as time permits. I'll send you a pm when I have time to pursue it.

Anyway, thanks for all your's and Scott's efforts!

GM
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Old 14th April 2006, 01:28 AM   #336
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Quote:
Originally posted by GM


Greets!

Yes, see my previous post.

Who says they sim bad? Anyway, the only difference between them in this BIB is that the 165LB rolls off down low similar to the original's 40-1354 while the 165 GMF stays ~flat to cut-off:

L = 105.93"
Sm = 220"^2
driver down 23.03" from the top.

GM

Hi GM,

Thanks for the 165GMF sim! I think it was you who gave the impression that the 165LB was 'bad' on sim on Post #135 hehe. But I most likely read it 'out of context':

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...208#post867208

Anyways, maybe Godzilla could revise the Line length diagram in the "How To" page by emulating the diagram expample attached by Scottmoose some pages back:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...amp=1131273009

I mean use the flare ('start' to 'end' captioned) = Line ???

Then use the length from where the flare starts to where the internal baffle terminates (center) + distance from front/base/back to internal baffle center = Baffle Height ???


A big thanks to GM, Scottmoose, Godzilla, and TC...
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Old 14th April 2006, 02:33 AM   #337
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Greets!

You're welcome!

No, you read it right, it really sucked, and explains why when I tried to save the current sim after I had already posted, it asked if I wanted to overwrite the existing one, which turned out to be the one I did using TC's pipe. At that point in the thread, I was just plugging specs into it since that's what ya'll were asking for. Shows you how good (not!) my short term memory is.

I'm going to get with him on some changes, including the dims, drawings.

GM
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Old 14th April 2006, 05:48 PM   #338
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http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp

More designs up... Supravox and Monacor... and a lovely intro from Scott.

Peace,
Godzilla
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Old 14th April 2006, 06:05 PM   #339
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http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib-howtobuild.asp

Thank you lovechild! I included your 'to scale' drawing. Which driver was that again? I'd like to note it on the site.

Peace,
Godzilla
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Old 14th April 2006, 08:23 PM   #340
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Hi there!
Scott, you made some dims for me a while back for the Monacor SPH60X, which were smaller than the posted on zilla's BIB page.
These are to be assembled in the near future....

Thanks again/Peter

7" wide, 14" deep, and 60" tall. 1" material is preferable. The internal sloping baffle will terminate 5 1/2" from the front and rear internal cabinet walls and 5 1/2" from the floor. The point above the driver needs a light layer of stuffing, and perhaps a 1/2" or so layer on the base of the cabinet
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