Terry Cain's BIB -why does it work and does anyone have those Fostex Craft Handbooks? - Page 170 - diyAudio
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Old 10th November 2006, 10:28 PM   #1691
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scottmoose
Nor is it the ideal expansion rate
Do you think the expansion is too fast? Because the cabinet is wider than it should be?

I was thinking of a little deeper box - 12", and somewhat narrower. Like 28-30" outside. That should give the terminus closer to the 1.414:1 ratio. Going to be a tight squeeze to get an 8" driver in there.

Of course HAL would not approve.
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Old 11th November 2006, 12:27 AM   #1692
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I know not everyone agrees but I like piezos splashing off the back wall. Not for my main system but certainly for the ‘fun’ second system in the basement or office. I even like the sound of my Pioneer B20’s too… even if they only cost $25. Not as detailed and fast as Fostex but certainly in the same category as my TB’s that cost even more.

Keeping the price down + having fun + good sound = exactly what I want to be doing! The kiddies will love helping me build these monsters!

This is all for fun and I bet it will sound good too. Multiple piezos on the back bring up the overall efficiency to match the added efficiency the B20 gains by being in the BIB.

I see 95db on the chart and just wanted to make sure the tweeters on back have enough sparkle without having to strain themselves. That’s also why I put the Lpad there… to lower and raise treble output to my taste. At $1.50 each per tweeter I figured it’s better to be safe and have more than enough output than too little… tho maybe just one or two tweeters will work I also figured on four because my basement is pretty large (maybe 20 x 25 foot… or more). One rear facing piezo alone didn’t fill the basement with enough ‘tweet’ in the past so I just wanted MORE just in case.

I don’t expect this system to be the most accurate but as a basement system where kids are playing… and for me to show my buddies what sound I can get from a feather light SI amp + portable cd player… well, I think this will be a most impressive sounding second system!

If I ever build it that is… and I may play with the dims just to gain WAF too… who cares if it’s not perfect! I bet they’ll have personality! Maybe I can mount a Spiderman poster on one and Superman on the other and they can flank the air hockey table.
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Old 11th November 2006, 04:15 AM   #1693
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Default Dutch design...

nt
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Old 11th November 2006, 12:49 PM   #1694
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Godzilla

Keeping the price down + having fun + good sound = exactly what I want to be doing! The kiddies will love helping me build these monsters!

with t-amp + portable cd player… well, I think this will be a most impressive sounding second system!

who cares if it’s not perfect! I bet they’ll have personality! Maybe I can mount a Spiderman poster on one and Superman on the other and they can flank the air hockey table.
I agree, is there a small cabinet (bookshelf) that is "price down + having fun + good sound = what I want"

any votes out there?, should be a new thread...

gychang
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Old 11th November 2006, 07:56 PM   #1695
DaveCan is offline DaveCan  Canada
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Hello fellow BIBer's,
I built the BIB's for my fe108's awhile back and just love them, they were the one's that I made the front and sides 60'' so that they fire down into the floor and a round baffle mount for the speaker etc. Anyhow I've been getting curious about the fe206esr as a project to do sometime down the road, and wondered if anyone has heard them in a BIB? Or has anyone heard both the 108's and 206esr to compare? I'd hate to loose the beautiful sound of the 108 just to have more bass and way more efficiency... Dave
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Old 11th November 2006, 10:20 PM   #1696
pjanda1 is offline pjanda1  United States
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I've been around this thread since the beginning, and today I finally started my Hemp BIB's. I'm using all Baltic Birch ply, with a double thick front Baffle.

Does anybody have advice on how to laminate the two pieces for the baffle? I'm planning to use PL premium construction adhesive to glue the cabs. It seems a little thick, but I could spread it thinly. Would a few cement blocks be enough weight, or should I use a bunch of srews? I don't have enough clamps.

Paul
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Old 12th November 2006, 12:22 AM   #1697
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Quote:
Originally posted by pjanda1
I've been around this thread since the beginning, and today I finally started my Hemp BIB's. I'm using all Baltic Birch ply, with a double thick front Baffle.

Does anybody have advice on how to laminate the two pieces for the baffle? I'm planning to use PL premium construction adhesive to glue the cabs. It seems a little thick, but I could spread it thinly. Would a few cement blocks be enough weight, or should I use a bunch of srews? I don't have enough clamps.

Paul

Where can you find Baltic Birch in pieces big enough for a Hemp-sized BIB? All I have found here is 60" x 60" sheets.
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Old 12th November 2006, 02:11 AM   #1698
mrbubbs is offline mrbubbs  United States
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Default 2001 monolith ratio

So from my extremely limited understanding of design, and given that the 8" depth of the monolith concept seems to be too shallow, and someone mentioned the 32" width being a little too wide, would a modification of, say, 12" depth and 28" width still "react" the same?

Also, my only reference for the project is at the zillaspeak site, but I had a little trouble deciphering what "Baffle terminates 14.875in from base & internal left & right side walls." meant, as I'm a first-time cabinet builder.

I'd like to know if anyone has completed a build of these. Should these be stuffed? Did the MK MathCad sim show how much stuffing to use?

I'm gonna search this forum for general building practices, as I don't know what are the best joints to use, and how to build the "fake baffles". I also need to determine whether I want to go with a circular saw and some steady handwork or save up for a nice tablesaw.

Anyway, those hemp drivers seem like a great driver to use, for sure! I'm excited as the driver height is about my height when sitting in my chair and I have plenty of ceiling space and room area for the speakers to really shine.
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Old 12th November 2006, 02:48 AM   #1699
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Default Re: 2001 monolith ratio

[snip


I'm gonna search this forum for general building practices, as I don't know what are the best joints to use, and how to build the "fake baffles". I also need to determine whether I want to go with a circular saw and some steady handwork or save up for a nice tablesaw.

Anyway, those hemp drivers seem like a great driver to use, for sure! I'm excited as the driver height is about my height when sitting in my chair and I have plenty of ceiling space and room area for the speakers to really shine. [/B][/QUOTE]

A circular saw with a guide board can get around the tablesaw dilemma.
There should be some visuals if you google > guide board


Setting up for long cuts is the biggest problem. Also a chalk line for
marking will be helpful.
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Old 12th November 2006, 04:17 AM   #1700
GM is offline GM  United States
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Default Re: 2001 monolith ratio

Quote:
Originally posted by mrbubbs
.......would a modification of, say, 12" depth and 28" width still "react" the same?

......."Baffle terminates 14.875in from base & internal left & right side walls." meant........

I'd like to know if anyone has completed a build of these. Should these be stuffed? Did the MK MathCad sim show how much stuffing to use?

.......what are the best joints to use, and how to build the "fake baffles". I also need to determine whether I want to go with a circular saw and some steady handwork or save up for a nice tablesaw.
Greets!

There's probably some subtle differences in its upper harmonics, but I wouldn't worry about it.

If you look at the standard BIB drawing, it shows that the bottom of the internal baffle board is equidistant from the front, rear, and bottom panels. The difference with the Monolith is that one of the sides becomes the front, ergo the baffle board runs from one side to the middle rather than top front to in between the front and back.

Not me. Doesn't look like the sim has any stuffing, but for sure none I've done used any. How much stuffing, if any, is required will be based on what you determine once you get them set up in-room and experiment a bit. I do recommend that the area behind the driver and on the sidewall nearest it be covered to quell early reflections back to the driver.

Fancy joints are nice, but plain ol' butt joints are fine, though with the Monolith, mitered joints on at least the two sides and front panel is preferred if you're going to do the 'piano black' finish.

Fake baffles aren't required if the cab's deep enough to hold the driver.

Tablesaws are nice, but the vast majority of speakers I built were with either a hand or circular saw using a cutting board and even after I got one, I still ripped large pieces with the board: http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm

GM
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