If you made a rectangular steel punch, you could cut those holes real quick, otherwise I am not sure if it is faster than tape to cut all those rectangles by hand with a razor. Does this enable really work on inside of a cabinet? What about surfaces where there is stuffing touching? I think the first triangular section down to the 180 deg turn is full of stuffing.
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I think it goes without argument that you can see a measurable difference in the frequency response and waterfall plots with felt lining in a BIB. I am not sure if an Enabled BIB panels will produce a measurable difference. It would be interesting if someone can do a before and after Enable measurement of their BIB.
We'll see, the pattern is made, laminated, it will take me a few minutes to cut out the squares with an x-acto, and then if all goes well, not long to apply the plaster with a spatula. The proponents of the enable process have nothing but good things to say about it. I can't see it doing any harm. I won't be doing before and after tests as once glued up, some sections will be impossible to get to. I'll be doing the exterior as well and eventually the FE206EN along with a few other mods.
So the thickness of the lamination determines the thickness of the applied squares of plaster once the wet plaster is scraped off with a spatula (level with thickness of lamination)? This sounds like it is the so-called "Doctor's Knife" process. So you do not find cutting hundreds of squares with Xacto a tedious process?
Yes exactly...
I'm making a paper sheet sized template made out of some thin Bristol board.
And yes a little tedious a bit but much less so than the thousands and thousands of squares I would have to otherwise apply.
It also has the advantage of being straight, easily repeated and reusable... (I don't think I'm on my last BIB or speaker). Once I have the template, application (should) be a breeze.
Whatever the method chosen, precisely measuring out the pattern on the baffle and making sure everything lined up perfectly would be quite an ordeal...
And then when you had another baffle to do, you have to start over.
We are talking of many hours I would think unless someone has come up with a quick and painless way to do so.
I spent about 20min on my lunch hour cutting them out. Did all the vertical cuts, and am presently on the horizontal cuts (about half-way done)
Hopefully, I'll get to try it out tonight.
-andré-
I'm making a paper sheet sized template made out of some thin Bristol board.
And yes a little tedious a bit but much less so than the thousands and thousands of squares I would have to otherwise apply.
It also has the advantage of being straight, easily repeated and reusable... (I don't think I'm on my last BIB or speaker). Once I have the template, application (should) be a breeze.
Whatever the method chosen, precisely measuring out the pattern on the baffle and making sure everything lined up perfectly would be quite an ordeal...
And then when you had another baffle to do, you have to start over.
We are talking of many hours I would think unless someone has come up with a quick and painless way to do so.
I spent about 20min on my lunch hour cutting them out. Did all the vertical cuts, and am presently on the horizontal cuts (about half-way done)
Hopefully, I'll get to try it out tonight.
-andré-
My only thought to speed things up is silk screen printing. You can make a laser printed master in black and white printed on transparency film. Use photosensitive resist on the silk screen to produce the master screen. Then apply with a spatula and silk screen paint. Thickness depends on screen thread thickness. But you can make perfect CAD drawings of the pattern and have near perfect repeatability.
Yeah, all anyone has to do is find how dense open cell foam has to be to make an audible difference on a horn mouth to see that this is most probably an exercise in futility, but as always, only one way to know for sure, so looking forward to the results.
GM
G'day All,
The relevant thread for BIB EnABL is here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/137408-extreme-bib-cabinet-enabl.html
Note that the thread title starts with the word 'Extreme' for good reason.
I have been EnABLing baffles, ports etc. since 2007 when I first stumbled across the original thread. IME the changes are audible and overwhelmingly positive.
DIY proof of concept is simple for those that are interested in trying it for themselves.
Happy to discuss BIB EnABL with anyone who is interested in the thread above rather than derail this one.
Cheers,
Alex
The relevant thread for BIB EnABL is here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/137408-extreme-bib-cabinet-enabl.html
Note that the thread title starts with the word 'Extreme' for good reason.
I have been EnABLing baffles, ports etc. since 2007 when I first stumbled across the original thread. IME the changes are audible and overwhelmingly positive.
DIY proof of concept is simple for those that are interested in trying it for themselves.
Happy to discuss BIB EnABL with anyone who is interested in the thread above rather than derail this one.
Cheers,
Alex
Greets!
You’re welcome!
A free-form to ensure maximizing random modes is best, but looks too weird unless you have Salvador Dali prints decorating your room, so a simple full height slant baffle ala Carver where the span across the driver is around 30” with a 1:12 slope minimum and preferably 2:12 on one side is what I’d do if there’s room; otherwise make it as wide at the base as you can and it is what it is across the driver: http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRMHnGv2BCtCZuE6zjal4DgDQOR4EvO7ubfsNTrkA5BOCIBgXMClw
Yes, round is worst since it generates what is essentially an infinite number of the same eigenmodes, so will have the highest amplitude peaks, dips to comb filter with the driver’s output. Offsetting the driver helps a bit, but it looks weird too.
Since you’re not going to be able to tell if the cab EnABLing is doing anything audible, you could make a couple of round baffles and try one with, without and then compare both to the slant baffle with, without. That should make for an enlightening comparison, though it would have to be done in a double blind test to be sure.
Again, you've got way more patience than me!
GM
Cool thanks Greg.
I will enable the baffle exteriors as well and will be able to compare before and after.
I have an open mind, we'll see what happens.
I don't mind free-form but I'm guessing that a free form baffle could work very well in one room and not so well in another.
If I were to do make cardboard cutouts at first to test would this be rigid enough to give me an idea as to which direction to pursue?
I know there are a lot of skeptics and I myself have yet to be convinced as I haven't heard the results but the proof will be in the pudding.
That being said, there are a lot of people who think they hear a difference
and there are other domains in which boundary level events play an important role.
http://www.zipp.com/_media/pdfs/technology/rough_around_the_edges.pdf
Not quite the enable pattern but I get the feeling it's along the same lines.
-andré-
I will enable the baffle exteriors as well and will be able to compare before and after.
I have an open mind, we'll see what happens.
I don't mind free-form but I'm guessing that a free form baffle could work very well in one room and not so well in another.
If I were to do make cardboard cutouts at first to test would this be rigid enough to give me an idea as to which direction to pursue?
I know there are a lot of skeptics and I myself have yet to be convinced as I haven't heard the results but the proof will be in the pudding.
That being said, there are a lot of people who think they hear a difference
and there are other domains in which boundary level events play an important role.
http://www.zipp.com/_media/pdfs/technology/rough_around_the_edges.pdf
Not quite the enable pattern but I get the feeling it's along the same lines.
-andré-
More progress..
Started enabling inside of cabinet.
The template worked well at first.
Then started to delaminate...
Not completely happy with the results as the edges aren't as crisp as I wanted them to be.
This is caused by my plaster being a bit runny and as I worked the plaster would dry in the template causing less than square openings.
And siliconed the backside of my front baffles... filled up any cracks and nail holes.
Hoping to finish enabling this weekend and perhaps start gluing them together.
-andré-
Started enabling inside of cabinet.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The template worked well at first.
Then started to delaminate...
Not completely happy with the results as the edges aren't as crisp as I wanted them to be.
This is caused by my plaster being a bit runny and as I worked the plaster would dry in the template causing less than square openings.
And siliconed the backside of my front baffles... filled up any cracks and nail holes.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hoping to finish enabling this weekend and perhaps start gluing them together.
-andré-
I agree. That being said, I don't think the enable pattern is supposed to dampen anything.
It makes the cabinet less... lossy???
How and why, who knows? I admit the science is beyond me.
I'm adding it here because I can and I can't see it doing any harm. I'll do before and after on the exterior of the cabinets once they are done but then again, that will be subjective.
It makes the cabinet less... lossy???
How and why, who knows? I admit the science is beyond me.
I'm adding it here because I can and I can't see it doing any harm. I'll do before and after on the exterior of the cabinets once they are done but then again, that will be subjective.