Man...I think it was better when I didn't know any better... now I just keep finding stuff that I need or should know more about...like room resonance and room gain and blah blah blah.... dammit I'm hung-over and confused!
it's gonna take awhile me thinks.
Maybe a nice TV stand bass horn BIB..?!
Is there a calculation to make it forward firing or is that a bad idea? No longer allowing it to use a corner. So, basically the box gets longer but with the lid on it, it directs the sound forward not into a corner etc? I wish I could draw it. I want to effectively turn the open top 90 degrees so it faces the same direction as the driver. Is that at all clear, what I'm saying?
Stroop
it's gonna take awhile me thinks.
Maybe a nice TV stand bass horn BIB..?!
Is there a calculation to make it forward firing or is that a bad idea? No longer allowing it to use a corner. So, basically the box gets longer but with the lid on it, it directs the sound forward not into a corner etc? I wish I could draw it. I want to effectively turn the open top 90 degrees so it faces the same direction as the driver. Is that at all clear, what I'm saying?
Stroop
SPH-60X. I don't think anywhere in the US sells them, but you could try www.wilmslowaudio.co.uk or www.spectrumaudio.de the latter is in German, but you can use Google's translation facility, and they speak perfect English if you're struggling. The former don't list them on the site, but can get them easily enough -I bought mine there. Not living in the UK, you won';t have to worry about VAT.
You might as well use TC's original cabinet design with these things, but with 3/4in material rather than the 1in he used, which will give you a little more breathing room -it should work fine. Internally 5.5in wide, 11.75in deep. Terminate the sloping baffle 5.875in from the internal base & the same distance from the front & rear walls. Driver centre 30.25in down from the internal top. External dimensions will be 7in wide x 70in tall x 14in deep.
You might as well use TC's original cabinet design with these things, but with 3/4in material rather than the 1in he used, which will give you a little more breathing room -it should work fine. Internally 5.5in wide, 11.75in deep. Terminate the sloping baffle 5.875in from the internal base & the same distance from the front & rear walls. Driver centre 30.25in down from the internal top. External dimensions will be 7in wide x 70in tall x 14in deep.
Hi Peter!
Well, I bought the drivers, one couple of SPH60X and one of SPH68X/AD....
The wood is cutted and waiting on a table....hopefully next week I'll start to build them!
Meanwhile, the drivers are breaking-in into a rough cab and I'll tell you that apparently the 68X/AD does better someway. Used singular or in parallel and in a nearfield position (as PC speakers), I love their sound more than my Harbeth HL-P3!!!!
Next Saturday I'll probably go to visit a lute maker I know, to prepare a varnish for the inside and external cab.
He's also thinking on a recipe for the drivers better than the singular Dammar varnish (can't afford C37 laquer at the moment......). The only thing I'm thinking he prefers using high grade alcohol instead of pure turpetine or others oils; I don't know how alcohol could affect the paper cone.......
I'll let you know about the progress!
Ciao.Fab
Well, I bought the drivers, one couple of SPH60X and one of SPH68X/AD....
The wood is cutted and waiting on a table....hopefully next week I'll start to build them!
Meanwhile, the drivers are breaking-in into a rough cab and I'll tell you that apparently the 68X/AD does better someway. Used singular or in parallel and in a nearfield position (as PC speakers), I love their sound more than my Harbeth HL-P3!!!!
Next Saturday I'll probably go to visit a lute maker I know, to prepare a varnish for the inside and external cab.
He's also thinking on a recipe for the drivers better than the singular Dammar varnish (can't afford C37 laquer at the moment......). The only thing I'm thinking he prefers using high grade alcohol instead of pure turpetine or others oils; I don't know how alcohol could affect the paper cone.......
I'll let you know about the progress!
Ciao.Fab
stroop said:
Greets!
You're welcome!
Yes, an adjustable active LF BW RTA/EQ/TD/XO unit would make things alot easier.
Bummer, a room where all dims are divisible by a common denominator. Oh well, acoustics isn't a priority in the vast majority of domestic floorplans.
Fold it so you can aim the mouth and driver at the longest dim and let the bass EQ deal with it, or better still, make the 'ultimate' BIB sub, a Danley Sound Labs 'Tower Of Power' concept since these drivers are rated for it. Then there's the B*** Wave Cannon, a similar pipe horn concept, which is the easiest to build, but has less gain than either of the other two due to its tiny CSA.
WRT double bass SQ, the lower the fundamental in music (as opposed to synth sinewaves), the wider its BW, so what counts most with low notes is the SQ of the speaker(s) handling its harmonics, so sounds like your on pretty solid ground since the LABhorn driver is overdamped and the ~80 Hz XO point is fairly low and the LF EQ will deal with the worst of the room's 'nasties'.
GM
LOL! 
Where's the 'keeper of the faith' when you need him? I don't know why he comes down so hard on me WRT my opinion of the company's business ethics. At least I don't devote a website to B*** Bashing like some folks do: http://cardhouse.com/x09/wave.htm
GM
Where's the 'keeper of the faith' when you need him? I don't know why he comes down so hard on me WRT my opinion of the company's business ethics. At least I don't devote a website to B*** Bashing like some folks do: http://cardhouse.com/x09/wave.htmGM
Hi there!
So the X/AD have more highs? From the graph's it appears so. The thing I have against the 60X I have, is that they are a little bit shy in the highs. I'm using them with a old NAD 7020E reciever and the treble knob is set at two o'clock.
However when playing vinyl it is not enough due to the riaa is not so good. Have used a Naim also with a very good result,unfortunatly it went dead awhile ago.
I ordered four 60X in order to play with one pair and have originals to compare with. I dewhizzered one pair and used them for about 4 months. They had a very open sound without shout on axis. Also 10 holes were made, in the dustcap, with a sewing needle. This opened the midrange a little bit more. Downside is that treble knob was completly at bottom, however it is not possible to disconnect the tone controls so actually it doesn't matter for me.
One month ago I put in the pair with whizzers but with the 10 hole dust-cap-mod. Treble returned of course, BUT, they are a little bit honky compared with whizzerless. I know it is too early to make a judgement but I have feeling the honkyness has increased by time.
I have got some thick aluminum foil and will try to make either a new shorter whizzer and/or dust cap. Haven't got a clue what I'm doing but that's the fun of it, isn't it. Even a pig can find a pearl
Let us know of your progress
Cheers/Peter
So the X/AD have more highs? From the graph's it appears so. The thing I have against the 60X I have, is that they are a little bit shy in the highs. I'm using them with a old NAD 7020E reciever and the treble knob is set at two o'clock.
However when playing vinyl it is not enough due to the riaa is not so good. Have used a Naim also with a very good result,unfortunatly it went dead awhile ago.
I ordered four 60X in order to play with one pair and have originals to compare with. I dewhizzered one pair and used them for about 4 months. They had a very open sound without shout on axis. Also 10 holes were made, in the dustcap, with a sewing needle. This opened the midrange a little bit more. Downside is that treble knob was completly at bottom, however it is not possible to disconnect the tone controls so actually it doesn't matter for me.
One month ago I put in the pair with whizzers but with the 10 hole dust-cap-mod. Treble returned of course, BUT, they are a little bit honky compared with whizzerless. I know it is too early to make a judgement but I have feeling the honkyness has increased by time.
I have got some thick aluminum foil and will try to make either a new shorter whizzer and/or dust cap. Haven't got a clue what I'm doing but that's the fun of it, isn't it. Even a pig can find a pearl
Let us know of your progress
Cheers/Peter
gychang said:
You're welcome. That's what we're here for -to help each other
Oh yes. The Monacor isn't the most efficient driver on the planet, but loaded like this, it'll be about 90db efficint for 1w at 1m before room-gain is brought in. Not as much as some, but you should still be fine with a t amp. You can always upgrade the driver at a later date to something better like a Fostex unit too -they'll work fairly well in this cabinet too. Then you can look toward a larger version of the cabinet... great stuff.
Re the drivers, have you thought about using Dave's phase plugs? I believe the RS40-1354 ones should fit.
Hmmm... I got an idea!!!!
I got 2 daybeds right...now say I build the BIB in one and use the other as an artificial corner so to speak (as they also double as a corner lounge with cushions and mattresses) to aim the sound where ever I want to in the room. That way I should be able to fullfil the expansion of the mouth of the horn and direct the sound into the room, while also maintaining versatility for guests!!
Please tell me that that could work sonically! There will be a join though, where the two couches meet, I don't THINK that will matter much in the scheme of things.
GM I think I'm going to have to read your posts about ten times! I only just got round to understanding your last post! Not because of lack of clarity, more my lack of knowledge and needing to read about up about the things you were talking about before I can post a reply!
By the way, I gotta say thanks so much for the help from you Scott and GM and others, this dumb@#$ noob really appreciates it.
Cheers and beers Stroop
I got 2 daybeds right...now say I build the BIB in one and use the other as an artificial corner so to speak (as they also double as a corner lounge with cushions and mattresses) to aim the sound where ever I want to in the room. That way I should be able to fullfil the expansion of the mouth of the horn and direct the sound into the room, while also maintaining versatility for guests!!
Please tell me that that could work sonically! There will be a join though, where the two couches meet, I don't THINK that will matter much in the scheme of things.
GM I think I'm going to have to read your posts about ten times! I only just got round to understanding your last post! Not because of lack of clarity, more my lack of knowledge and needing to read about up about the things you were talking about before I can post a reply!
By the way, I gotta say thanks so much for the help from you Scott and GM and others, this dumb@#$ noob really appreciates it.
Cheers and beers Stroop
Sounds like a plan.
Just looked up the bazooka thing from 'they who shall not be named.' I see a 12ft length of 12in diameter pipe, available from all good plumbers. I particularly like the description of the cabinet material in their technical literature (chuckle). Nice. Custom Extruded polyvinyl chloride. I imagine most of their buyers will probably never make the connection with PVC. Oh well.
Well, anyway, I tried. The idea itself doesn't actually strike me as being so bad -Nelson has done a non resonant version with 21in woofers after all -and I believe El Pipe-O works well enough for what it is. I just object to the (I won't say it) around it.
One DIY version. 12in diameter pipe 12ft long. Driver at the apparant 1/4 length, jusging by the photographs. No damping applied. I tried to find a 12in woofer with a lowish Vas, but the Eminence Delta 12A was the best I could do. I suspect it's a heck of a lot better than the original driver.
Overall, I'd say it's actually not too bad, all things being considered, asuming hefty Eq, corner loading, and a quick prayer that the PVC pipe doesn't decide to make like an anaconda. So, that's about $95 for the driver, including postage. Call it $25 for the pipe. Another $5 for a can of spray paint. Hmm. I make that $125US so far. Add a cheap equaliser; maybe $50 or so & we're at $175. How much do these things sell for, new? On second thoughts, don't tell me. I'm sure I don't want to know.
Give me a BIB any day. More efficiency, just as easy to make, shorter and decent horn loading. It'd make a good potato gun though, with a few simple changes.
Just looked up the bazooka thing from 'they who shall not be named.' I see a 12ft length of 12in diameter pipe, available from all good plumbers. I particularly like the description of the cabinet material in their technical literature (chuckle). Nice. Custom Extruded polyvinyl chloride. I imagine most of their buyers will probably never make the connection with PVC. Oh well.
Well, anyway, I tried. The idea itself doesn't actually strike me as being so bad -Nelson has done a non resonant version with 21in woofers after all -and I believe El Pipe-O works well enough for what it is. I just object to the (I won't say it) around it.
One DIY version. 12in diameter pipe 12ft long. Driver at the apparant 1/4 length, jusging by the photographs. No damping applied. I tried to find a 12in woofer with a lowish Vas, but the Eminence Delta 12A was the best I could do. I suspect it's a heck of a lot better than the original driver.
Overall, I'd say it's actually not too bad, all things being considered, asuming hefty Eq, corner loading, and a quick prayer that the PVC pipe doesn't decide to make like an anaconda. So, that's about $95 for the driver, including postage. Call it $25 for the pipe. Another $5 for a can of spray paint. Hmm. I make that $125US so far. Add a cheap equaliser; maybe $50 or so & we're at $175. How much do these things sell for, new? On second thoughts, don't tell me. I'm sure I don't want to know.
Give me a BIB any day. More efficiency, just as easy to make, shorter and decent horn loading. It'd make a good potato gun though, with a few simple changes.
Attachments
Godzilla said:
Godzilla, under the BIB site under Monacor SPH-60X
L = (Line length) 128"
So = Driver 25.5" down from sealed end of cabinet
Sm = 55"^2
is the size of the cabinet same as the original BIB by Terry Cain? I am unsure of what the L, So, Sm are. I assume these refer to figure on the speaker itself and not the cabinet?
thanks,
gychang
