GM said:
Thanks for replies on Ariel BIB.
Yes, I had forgotten the xo is tuned to cab dimensions (width) and speaker placement. The BIB dims end up 1" less on width but I could account for this with a "false baffle" setup. Then there is the placement so maybe floor loaded is the answer.
I got the drivers and xo components around 8 years ago then ended up with my RD75 ribbons so never built the Ariels. Also the Ariel cabs are far too complicated for me so thinking of a simple way to use them!
Ah - the benefits of a full range driver!
Cheers,
C
Hi GM, hi Scott
Good informative talk as usual! I'd never considered floating floor problem before, here in Italy it's usual practice to build rigid floor...
As I mentioned before I had bad experiences with granite, marble and other stones and also with MDF.
So I used plywood with spikes or dumping feet (Scott - nice idea cork feet!) and after, I built a modified platform "à la" Bright Star : plywood box (instead of MDF) not filled with sand but with the same red thin powder used in tennis court (if it's not Rolland Garros one works as well).
I sealed the top boundary slit with black sealant silicon and brass spikes screwed direct in the wood base, part of the hole depth filled with silicon to create a small compression by levelling and screwing the spikes.
They worked pretty well until I got table, platforms and stands made by a friend of mine who worked on "tuning" those accessories considering (he told me) the natural-fundamental harmonics....I don't know, but these are great objects. Now it becomes a commercial affair and unfortunately prices rised to the moon!
Just for the sake of it (I don't want to do any advertising) this is what I'm using http://www.dmlaudio.it/index.htm
see Baset-Toni Model4, Saratoga, IceTowers.
Talking with VIVA amplifier producer he suggested to use for his own tables and platforms "tone-wood spruce and maple" same used for strings and pianos, but not cheap at all....
Ciao.Fab.
Good informative talk as usual! I'd never considered floating floor problem before, here in Italy it's usual practice to build rigid floor...
As I mentioned before I had bad experiences with granite, marble and other stones and also with MDF.
So I used plywood with spikes or dumping feet (Scott - nice idea cork feet!) and after, I built a modified platform "à la" Bright Star : plywood box (instead of MDF) not filled with sand but with the same red thin powder used in tennis court (if it's not Rolland Garros one works as well).
I sealed the top boundary slit with black sealant silicon and brass spikes screwed direct in the wood base, part of the hole depth filled with silicon to create a small compression by levelling and screwing the spikes.
They worked pretty well until I got table, platforms and stands made by a friend of mine who worked on "tuning" those accessories considering (he told me) the natural-fundamental harmonics....I don't know, but these are great objects. Now it becomes a commercial affair and unfortunately prices rised to the moon!
Just for the sake of it (I don't want to do any advertising) this is what I'm using http://www.dmlaudio.it/index.htmsee Baset-Toni Model4, Saratoga, IceTowers.
Talking with VIVA amplifier producer he suggested to use for his own tables and platforms "tone-wood spruce and maple" same used for strings and pianos, but not cheap at all....
Ciao.Fab.
Sorry Scott, I didn't mean to imply you had recommended marble or granite as the base.
I was simply going to stand the cab on a plinth with blutac or something similar.
GM, thankyou for clearing up some of my confusion. I'm using inner tubes under both my
amp and source, never thought of incorporating into the speaker bases.
You said "the bottom and two corner sides should be lossy, to damp down unwanted harmonic
energy", do you mean use another [more lossy] material for those cab walls, or use felt or
something on them? What is an example of a lossy construction material?
So the top of the cab will probably be to close to the ceiling. Before I saw up my timber, your
pretty sure that scalloping out the mouth will stop any booming?
Thanks everyone, John.
I was simply going to stand the cab on a plinth with blutac or something similar.
GM, thankyou for clearing up some of my confusion. I'm using inner tubes under both my
amp and source, never thought of incorporating into the speaker bases.
You said "the bottom and two corner sides should be lossy, to damp down unwanted harmonic
energy", do you mean use another [more lossy] material for those cab walls, or use felt or
something on them? What is an example of a lossy construction material?
So the top of the cab will probably be to close to the ceiling. Before I saw up my timber, your
pretty sure that scalloping out the mouth will stop any booming?
Thanks everyone, John.
Just built a pair and WOOF!!
I just built a pair with the Tang Band 1052's (for a friend but my girlfriend may have difficulty parting with them
). I just wanted to say a big THANKS to everyone who did work on this design or making it easy to figure out and build. And for anyone still debating this DO IT. You won't be disappointed with the sound.
I just built a pair with the Tang Band 1052's (for a friend but my girlfriend may have difficulty parting with them
). I just wanted to say a big THANKS to everyone who did work on this design or making it easy to figure out and build. And for anyone still debating this DO IT. You won't be disappointed with the sound.
John
Back-cutting the mouth will probably help, though as for boom, I don't think anyone could say until you try it! Increasing the stuffing will also help a bit there if it's a problem.
Chris
I did an MLTL for the Ariel's a while back which might also suit. I was a little harsh on the existing Ariel cabinet on this thread -a view I've since modified somewhat. However, it's still a right old pain to build, being as complicated as a complicated thing that enjoys quadratic equations in it's leisure time. The MLTL is a heck of a lot easier if you wanted a simple build. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=817706#post817706
It's a max-flat cab, as I figured these drivers need all the help they can get in the LF. I paralled the drivers for the sake of the impedence in the model, though the XO will doubtless change it somewhat. Should still work pretty well though.
Best
Scott
Back-cutting the mouth will probably help, though as for boom, I don't think anyone could say until you try it! Increasing the stuffing will also help a bit there if it's a problem.
Chris
I did an MLTL for the Ariel's a while back which might also suit. I was a little harsh on the existing Ariel cabinet on this thread -a view I've since modified somewhat. However, it's still a right old pain to build, being as complicated as a complicated thing that enjoys quadratic equations in it's leisure time. The MLTL is a heck of a lot easier if you wanted a simple build. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=817706#post817706
It's a max-flat cab, as I figured these drivers need all the help they can get in the LF. I paralled the drivers for the sake of the impedence in the model, though the XO will doubtless change it somewhat. Should still work pretty well though.
Best
Scott
Hey, thanks for the MLTL Ariel design Scott - that works better than a BIB in terms of fitting into the original design/xover. And MLTLs are just as easy to build as a BIB.
I shall build them. Daft thing is I will prolly end up selling them fairly soon but thats better than having the drivers sitting there another 8 years!
Cheers,
Chris
I shall build them. Daft thing is I will prolly end up selling them fairly soon but thats better than having the drivers sitting there another 8 years!
Cheers,
Chris
For these TB 1052's I'll compare them to my Vifa/Dayton "All Aluminium" main speakers. The TB's sound warmer but they're lacking on the very top end. Although I can't get the volume of the aluminiums, at the same levels I really like the sound of the TB's. They've completely impressed everyone with how big they sound. My brother even checked to make sure the sub wasn't on! I've moved them into the bedroom 8'x14', 7' ceiling, and even hooked up to a "boom box" they sound even larger. All in all an outstanding auditory experience. As I'll be giving these as a gift in November, any ideas for my NEXT driver in this outstanding cabinet?? Maybe, something with a little bit better HF extension?
Thanks,
Bruce
Maybe, something with a little bit better HF extension?Thanks,
Bruce
Hi Ray,
Ring baffles are 300mm dia. 18mm MDF. Chose the diameter more on asthetics.
No haven't played with stuffing or cork lining at this point. Waiting for the drivers to be more fully run in before I play - only 100hours approx at the moment. Mind you they are sounding awesome so am happy to leave as is for now.
Cheers,
C
Ring baffles are 300mm dia. 18mm MDF. Chose the diameter more on asthetics.
No haven't played with stuffing or cork lining at this point. Waiting for the drivers to be more fully run in before I play - only 100hours approx at the moment. Mind you they are sounding awesome so am happy to leave as is for now.
Cheers,
C
Chris,
My fit was the same....the magnet almost grazed the baffle. The pad I placed behind it was slightly compressed so I chiseled out a crescent moon shaped relief about 1/4" deep.
Still getting some highs/mids from the top and some reflection through the back of the driver. Most of the honkey/shout harshness has ended but that appears to subside with use.
Ray
My fit was the same....the magnet almost grazed the baffle. The pad I placed behind it was slightly compressed so I chiseled out a crescent moon shaped relief about 1/4" deep.
Still getting some highs/mids from the top and some reflection through the back of the driver. Most of the honkey/shout harshness has ended but that appears to subside with use.
Ray
That's what I did. Worked for me anyway, with my 165 box. Greg reckons it helps deaden the panels which sounds favourite. I also found it seemed to help with reflections back through the cone, but that could just be me hearing things. Or not hearing them, as the case may be. As it's cheap and easily reversable, it's definitely worth trying.