Hi
Nanook, funny enougth your post is post #1000 in this thread
As little service for y'all here is a pdf to download, containing post #1 too post #1000
BIB-1000.pdf - 2.3 MB, 198 pages.
best, LC
Nanook, funny enougth your post is post #1000 in this thread
As little service for y'all here is a pdf to download, containing post #1 too post #1000
BIB-1000.pdf - 2.3 MB, 198 pages.
best, LC
Lemo's
I use two types:
I like the Lemo Series "B"
This is thier standard design.
Aluminum housing, 2 contact, soderable.
panel mount females
You an get the Lemo catalog from 707 578 8811 (Lemo USA)(these guys are really nice)
And of course, from our friends at Digikey: 800 344 4539
a Lemo knockoff... Rohs Corp.
Digikey part number:
SC1204-ND (cable end) male 3 pin solder
SC1209-ND 9 (panel mount) female 3 pin solder
These are plastic housings and gold plated brass for the contacts.
These are WAY less money than the Lemo's but I do love the real thing.
In truth, Ill never use the "RCA" crap again. It is simply the wrong solution. Plus even the Rohs plastic sound way better than the best RCA.
Try them. You might like them.
I use two types:
I like the Lemo Series "B"
This is thier standard design.
Aluminum housing, 2 contact, soderable.
panel mount females
You an get the Lemo catalog from 707 578 8811 (Lemo USA)(these guys are really nice)
And of course, from our friends at Digikey: 800 344 4539
a Lemo knockoff... Rohs Corp.
Digikey part number:
SC1204-ND (cable end) male 3 pin solder
SC1209-ND 9 (panel mount) female 3 pin solder
These are plastic housings and gold plated brass for the contacts.
These are WAY less money than the Lemo's but I do love the real thing.
In truth, Ill never use the "RCA" crap again. It is simply the wrong solution. Plus even the Rohs plastic sound way better than the best RCA.
Try them. You might like them.
Perhaps this thread should be closed at 1000 and new BIB threads should be started since many of us have begun or have built BIBs to date. Perhaps not…
I still have work to do on the BIB site... stuffing options... some of you have sent great pics and i will try to get around to posting them all. Scott has sent me some BIB bass horn concepts which seem worthwhile because they are tall and thin and can be corner loaded as a small footprint subwoofer.
My BIBs are half finished in the garage but construction on my house has prevented me from working on them.
Thanks Scott and GM for making this fun and generously spending your time designing! Thanks to everyone posting on this site and providing motivation and purpose.
Peace,
Godzilla
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp
I still have work to do on the BIB site... stuffing options... some of you have sent great pics and i will try to get around to posting them all. Scott has sent me some BIB bass horn concepts which seem worthwhile because they are tall and thin and can be corner loaded as a small footprint subwoofer.
My BIBs are half finished in the garage but construction on my house has prevented me from working on them.
Thanks Scott and GM for making this fun and generously spending your time designing! Thanks to everyone posting on this site and providing motivation and purpose.
Peace,
Godzilla
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp
zek said:
Greets!
No 'cast in concrete' rules, just in general the full length is ~1/2 WL below Fs with a mouth area that yields sufficient Vb. T.C.'s BIB driver is at L*~0.21, but there's some 'wiggle room' to adapt it to ~ear height. Obviously, as Fs decreases, it becomes so large that it needs to be tuned as high as 1/4 WL of Fs.
GM
Greets!
You're welcome!
Never seen this formula, but haven't studied the Japanese way of designing these things. Anyway, the ones I did long ago were based on nomograms published in some early DIY books and some basic mechanical resonance theory, which don't 'translate' well to the BIB, so not being able to 'do the math', I'm at the mercy of MJK's WSs to arrive at a similar alignment to T.C.'s original with other drivers.
That said, in a straight pipe this type of simple correlation works well enough, but with a horn, the flare rate has to be factored in, hence much more math intensive if not mass loaded (ML-TQWT). When mass loaded with a vent area = Sd, mouth area can be approximated 'close enough' using a fixed value referenced to an estimated Sd, with length based on a fixed percentage of Fb that's somewhat longer than the commonly used closed pipe's 1/4 WL.
GM
You're welcome!
Never seen this formula, but haven't studied the Japanese way of designing these things. Anyway, the ones I did long ago were based on nomograms published in some early DIY books and some basic mechanical resonance theory, which don't 'translate' well to the BIB, so not being able to 'do the math', I'm at the mercy of MJK's WSs to arrive at a similar alignment to T.C.'s original with other drivers.
That said, in a straight pipe this type of simple correlation works well enough, but with a horn, the flare rate has to be factored in, hence much more math intensive if not mass loaded (ML-TQWT). When mass loaded with a vent area = Sd, mouth area can be approximated 'close enough' using a fixed value referenced to an estimated Sd, with length based on a fixed percentage of Fb that's somewhat longer than the commonly used closed pipe's 1/4 WL.
GM
Andrewbee said:
Greets!
I agree, the ~ML variant I built were all strictly LF/midbass horns.
I assume this is the FW208N.
If so, then use the 'stock' BIB to keep size reasonable and 'close enough' to other BIB alignments, or for lower tunings, increase Sm and Zdriver proportionately to it with increasing length. This unfortunately will put the driver too high, so flipping it upside down and floor loading it makes more sense to me.
GM
Just looked at Godzillas site on BIB nice work Scott and thanks for hosting Jeff, all should visit!!
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp
Jeff and others, TB 3" er's requires floor loading, so how do you figure out the angle or how high to come up the back??
What is the black peice in the middle at the back?? Support odviously, but would its constuction / position affect anything??
Tangband W3-871S 3" full range - Designed by GM
L = (Line length) 70"
Zdriver = Driver 15.2" down from sealed end of cabinet
Sm = 22.5"^2
SM is W X D does that mean any nunbers that fit the 22.5 cubic inches if I'm reading / undestanding this right will work, like really wide but not deep or just wide enough for the driver and very deep!!!
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib.asp
Jeff and others, TB 3" er's requires floor loading, so how do you figure out the angle or how high to come up the back??
What is the black peice in the middle at the back?? Support odviously, but would its constuction / position affect anything??
Tangband W3-871S 3" full range - Designed by GM
L = (Line length) 70"
Zdriver = Driver 15.2" down from sealed end of cabinet
Sm = 22.5"^2
SM is W X D does that mean any nunbers that fit the 22.5 cubic inches if I'm reading / undestanding this right will work, like really wide but not deep or just wide enough for the driver and very deep!!!
Hi GM,
Yes, correct assumption.
I am just thinking aloud so to speak. I also feel the floor loading would do well, pehaps cutting the mouth at an angle to increase the area.
I wonder if anyone has tried the floor load yet? No reson why it would not work.
I was thinking of a BIB with a woofer mounted as usual and the front baffle being somewhat like the Herb Jeschke (sp) pipe with the FR mounted in "outboard" part of the baffle.
Thanks for confirming my thoughts.
Andrew
Yes, correct assumption.
I am just thinking aloud so to speak. I also feel the floor loading would do well, pehaps cutting the mouth at an angle to increase the area.
I wonder if anyone has tried the floor load yet? No reson why it would not work.
I was thinking of a BIB with a woofer mounted as usual and the front baffle being somewhat like the Herb Jeschke (sp) pipe with the FR mounted in "outboard" part of the baffle.
Thanks for confirming my thoughts.
Andrew
airframe said:
Greets!
What angle?
Come up the back?
Black piece?
Anyway, I assume you mean the internal baffle board and its angle, which is defined here: http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib-howtobuild.asp
The WxD dimensions chosen affects the flare rate through the bend, so use this calculator from post 907 to ~accurately maintain a linear one, then you can figure the baffle board location, length: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=945770&stamp=1150943000
GM
You know, I never expected this thread to become so long when I started it last year. Nice that people are once again trying this classic style of cabinet and discovering that there is much merit in some of the more traditional ways of doing things.
Some bass horn versions are on the way for the 'Zilla pages. A few Monacors, Seas and Fostex units. They'll be there more as examples than anything else: there are so many drivers we'd be sowed under if we tried doing many.
Just seen Ray's FE168ESigma boxes -lovely.
Some bass horn versions are on the way for the 'Zilla pages. A few Monacors, Seas and Fostex units. They'll be there more as examples than anything else: there are so many drivers we'd be sowed under if we tried doing many.
Just seen Ray's FE168ESigma boxes -lovely.
This thread are so long (more than 1015 posts), but there are no one complete BIB project with full explanation of the beginning to final product.
I think there would be several steps:
Step 1: How to select apropriate driver according to it`s T/S parameters
Step 2: How to calculate L - line lenght (depends of Fs)
Step 3: How to calculate Sm - terminus area (depends of T/S parametres)
Step 4: How to calculate So - driver down from closed end
Step 5: How to calculate internal and external dimensions of BIB enclosure (W, D, H)
Step 6: Damping, adjusting and positioning the BIB
Step 7: How it sounds (comparison with known commercial speakers)
If someone want to help, I will make some sketches if needed, and everything can be placed on Zilla`s site `How to build a BIB`
Think about these
Best regards
Zek
I think there would be several steps:
Step 1: How to select apropriate driver according to it`s T/S parameters
Step 2: How to calculate L - line lenght (depends of Fs)
Step 3: How to calculate Sm - terminus area (depends of T/S parametres)
Step 4: How to calculate So - driver down from closed end
Step 5: How to calculate internal and external dimensions of BIB enclosure (W, D, H)
Step 6: Damping, adjusting and positioning the BIB
Step 7: How it sounds (comparison with known commercial speakers)
If someone want to help, I will make some sketches if needed, and everything can be placed on Zilla`s site `How to build a BIB`
Think about these
Best regards
Zek
Uncle Dan waved his magic wand to both me and Terry Cain, Ray. Hope you don't mind. That's a heck of a finish you've achieved -if I could get mine half as good I'd be a happy man. I'm really glad you like them. Just wait until the usual 100 hour cook time has elapsed.
Best
Scott
PS: The Kingdom of Heaven soundtrack guys -you need to hear this one. If you have one hair on the back of your neck standing after hearing the opening track, check your pulse. Particularly good through 165s.
Best
Scott
PS: The Kingdom of Heaven soundtrack guys -you need to hear this one. If you have one hair on the back of your neck standing after hearing the opening track, check your pulse. Particularly good through 165s.