No problems with Dave's in the next post though.......... 
>> Do I need to leave the base removable?
>> For damping or whatever?
What worked best for me was to start by stuffing behind the driver and up into the point as much as I could. After listening for a few days I decided there was too much midrange coming thru the opening at the top so I added some stuffing to the bottom. I wadded up two equal piles of acoustastuff and placed them into each mouth at the top then gently pushed the wadding down with a broom stick distributing as equally as I could.
You could stand on a chair to do this, lay the BIB on the floor or just tip it while using the broom stick to push down the mouth towards the base. It’s hard to remove stuffing once inserted so I recommend using less, listening, and adding more as you tune the speakers for your room.
I added an image with some stuffing options. Scroll to the bottom of the page. My speaker is stuffed like the middle image.
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib-howtobuild.asp
Godzilla
>> For damping or whatever?
What worked best for me was to start by stuffing behind the driver and up into the point as much as I could. After listening for a few days I decided there was too much midrange coming thru the opening at the top so I added some stuffing to the bottom. I wadded up two equal piles of acoustastuff and placed them into each mouth at the top then gently pushed the wadding down with a broom stick distributing as equally as I could.
You could stand on a chair to do this, lay the BIB on the floor or just tip it while using the broom stick to push down the mouth towards the base. It’s hard to remove stuffing once inserted so I recommend using less, listening, and adding more as you tune the speakers for your room.
I added an image with some stuffing options. Scroll to the bottom of the page. My speaker is stuffed like the middle image.
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib-howtobuild.asp
Godzilla
Just a quick note on the stuffing.....
I had mine stuffed like option 3 on the zilla site, thanks for posting those, except i did not stuff around the driver to the top. I was not getting quite enough mid, and seemed to have a strage loss in the midbass. First i added stuffing directly behind driver, midrange back where i wanted it. I then took out the stuffing along the back of the mouth, this was for another reason also, the hole in the midbass not only disappeared, but the sound of the BIB's got even bigger! The long run of stuffing seemed to be killing a bit too much of the mid high coming out of the mouth. Still experimenting, had to let them break in a few months, but I am very pleased at the moment. My biggest warning though, If you stuff like the third picture, and you have cats!!! One of the two will have to go!
I had mine stuffed like option 3 on the zilla site, thanks for posting those, except i did not stuff around the driver to the top. I was not getting quite enough mid, and seemed to have a strage loss in the midbass. First i added stuffing directly behind driver, midrange back where i wanted it. I then took out the stuffing along the back of the mouth, this was for another reason also, the hole in the midbass not only disappeared, but the sound of the BIB's got even bigger! The long run of stuffing seemed to be killing a bit too much of the mid high coming out of the mouth. Still experimenting, had to let them break in a few months, but I am very pleased at the moment. My biggest warning though, If you stuff like the third picture, and you have cats!!! One of the two will have to go!
You can use wool, acoustastuff, fiberglass - whatever you prefer. Since the top is open on the BIB i didnt want to use fiberglass for the health issues it presents.
Wool and acoustastuff are safe as far as i know. I just happen to have a few bags of acoustastuff. Every time i place an order at partsexpress i have them ship me another bag.
I wasnt easy stuffing into the point once the cabinet was closed. You may want to lightly stuff it before closing.
Godzilla
Wool and acoustastuff are safe as far as i know. I just happen to have a few bags of acoustastuff. Every time i place an order at partsexpress i have them ship me another bag.
I wasnt easy stuffing into the point once the cabinet was closed. You may want to lightly stuff it before closing.
Godzilla
still twiddling
Maybe there was a cross communication about BIB treatments
earlier. I am not putting anything over the mouth of the
BIB that I can breath through or no.
What I am twiddling with is from the earlier discussion
from a suggestion by
GM for a soft 'baffle' hung down the mouth to tame some
boominess. Other interior treatment is only a layer of fiberfill
at the base and some up in the closed peak.
I cut my felt baffle today and suspended it in there
tacked to a stick. It tapers from 10 3/4 in at the top
down to the divide at 4.5 inches. There's some wiggle
room to reposition this banner which is right angle one side and
tapered on the other.
It's probably not practical to get the sound as flat as it is
on my MLTL for the FE127e. But I want to get it as close to
flat as I can. A white noise test gives the MLTL a 'higher pitch'
than the BIB with sound levels pretty close to equal.
I do these A/B tests with a mono radio signal.
Maybe there was a cross communication about BIB treatments
earlier. I am not putting anything over the mouth of the
BIB that I can breath through or no.
What I am twiddling with is from the earlier discussion
from a suggestion by
GM for a soft 'baffle' hung down the mouth to tame some
boominess. Other interior treatment is only a layer of fiberfill
at the base and some up in the closed peak.
I cut my felt baffle today and suspended it in there
tacked to a stick. It tapers from 10 3/4 in at the top
down to the divide at 4.5 inches. There's some wiggle
room to reposition this banner which is right angle one side and
tapered on the other.
It's probably not practical to get the sound as flat as it is
on my MLTL for the FE127e. But I want to get it as close to
flat as I can. A white noise test gives the MLTL a 'higher pitch'
than the BIB with sound levels pretty close to equal.
I do these A/B tests with a mono radio signal.
I noticed zillaspeak is down and has been that for some days.
Any clue when it might be up again?
I'm heavily interested in building a BIB, but not sure yet whether to dismantle my Nagaoka D3II.1 to recover the FE208EZ in it. I guess this driver is also not very suited. If I start the BIB with a new pair of drivers, I can keep the D3II.1 as a reference.
I browsed through a large part of this thread to find the general accepted Fostex favourite for BIB building, but to no avail. Anyone care to share their favourite ? I thought a 6.5 incher would suit me best.
168ES? 165K ? unless some other driver performs markedly better.
Regards,
Gert
Any clue when it might be up again?
I'm heavily interested in building a BIB, but not sure yet whether to dismantle my Nagaoka D3II.1 to recover the FE208EZ in it. I guess this driver is also not very suited. If I start the BIB with a new pair of drivers, I can keep the D3II.1 as a reference.
I browsed through a large part of this thread to find the general accepted Fostex favourite for BIB building, but to no avail. Anyone care to share their favourite ? I thought a 6.5 incher would suit me best.
168ES? 165K ? unless some other driver performs markedly better.
Regards,
Gert
Instead of paying an arm and a leg for Acoustastuf , first try some Polyester Fibrefill. It is very similar and can be bought at WalMart for about $3 a bag. It is in the craft department , used for pillow/quilt/toy animal stuffing.
Acoustastuf ,IMO, is not worth the extra money and is just another example of paying alot more for a namebrand when a generic is readily available.
Just my opinion................Blake
Acoustastuf ,IMO, is not worth the extra money and is just another example of paying alot more for a namebrand when a generic is readily available.
Just my opinion................Blake
Polyester Fibrefill from Wallmart for $3 a bag sounds like a deal. I will have to check it out.
Meanwhile, my sites down again
We had an A/C unit installed in our server room and it sucks. Temp was up to 108 sometime last month so we had it replaced. I bet my $100+k servers were buring up all weekend!
They must have shut down. Sorry.
Tomorrow morning i will open the door to the server room... let it cool off and reboot. Systematic did the A/C install. I hate them.
CRAP!
Meanwhile, my sites down again
We had an A/C unit installed in our server room and it sucks. Temp was up to 108 sometime last month so we had it replaced. I bet my $100+k servers were buring up all weekend!
They must have shut down. Sorry.
Tomorrow morning i will open the door to the server room... let it cool off and reboot. Systematic did the A/C install. I hate them.
CRAP!
Instead of plain polyfill, I have had much luck with quilt batting(used for quilts and blankets). It comes in layers about 1/8'' to 1/4''. It can be laid to the appropriate thickness. Then easily stapled or if sprayed with a fine mist of aerasol glue and then allowed to dry. The nice part is you can add or subtract easily, and it lays evenly where as poly fill can be a bit rough to spread.
Also, a note on suprabaffles, I was doing a bit of shopping this weekend. Lowes, if you have one nearby, has 1 inch wood pieces of pine cut and sanded and edges rounded to circle size of 12, 15, and 18 inches. They are used for shelves, stools, or suprabaffles! They were located in the wood section, near the nicer pine boards and moulding. I believe the 12 incher was about $10! This may be a great alternative for everyone, I believe I will be buying a set for next BIB.
Also, a note on suprabaffles, I was doing a bit of shopping this weekend. Lowes, if you have one nearby, has 1 inch wood pieces of pine cut and sanded and edges rounded to circle size of 12, 15, and 18 inches. They are used for shelves, stools, or suprabaffles! They were located in the wood section, near the nicer pine boards and moulding. I believe the 12 incher was about $10! This may be a great alternative for everyone, I believe I will be buying a set for next BIB.
Hopefully you have some sort of hardware store. If not, try this, Found it on the net after a quick search, hopefully we can find a few similar places.
http://www.hobbywood.us/boardspanelsrounds.html
http://www.hobbywood.us/boardspanelsrounds.html
from here http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/callipse.htm
Drawing an ellipse by the 'Loop method'
There are many ways of drawing an ellipse but one of the simplest is to mark the two foci on a piece of paper, put a pin in each, drop a circular loop of string over these pins, put the point of a pencil inside the loop, then move the pencil over the paper, keeping the string taut all the time. Easier to do than to describe!
Is this what you want to do?
Drawing an ellipse by the 'Loop method'
There are many ways of drawing an ellipse but one of the simplest is to mark the two foci on a piece of paper, put a pin in each, drop a circular loop of string over these pins, put the point of a pencil inside the loop, then move the pencil over the paper, keeping the string taut all the time. Easier to do than to describe!
Is this what you want to do?
