My Dallas is taking me forever to build. I still need to make and glue back braces and fill voids with kitty litter before I can button them up. I'm sort of second guessing myself on using cat5 for speaker wire.
Ron is amazing, he has 4 designs as far as I know. His original 3', the 4' Dallas II, the Austin - 48"x9" for the 166E and a special design he calls the Houston. I wish I could build them all
Ron is amazing, he has 4 designs as far as I know. His original 3', the 4' Dallas II, the Austin - 48"x9" for the 166E and a special design he calls the Houston. I wish I could build them all
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a tidy speaker starts with Tidy Cats. I used one cat5 for each terminal and ran the binding posts to the back. I caulked the inside seams with PolySeamSeal. I used yellow wood glue to attach the right side. Clamped it and turned 180 to avoid glue runs.
I listened for the first time tonight. I've never heard a speaker with this much detail before. The bass is defined and fast.
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Someday soon I'm going to build a test mike and preamp and then I could give you a number for my room. As it is I would guess low to mid 40Hz.
It's the quality of the bass thats blowing me away. An oboe sounds like an oboe. A electric bass has attack and decay. A kick drum has punch. And this is with a un-modded 206E and a mass market amp. After I build the Mauro chip amp and Planet10 the driver things could get scary.
Hi amisdad,
Have you ever thought about using your FE206E as the wide bandwidth midrange in a 3-way? Several of the best speakers I have heard were 3-ways which used a full range driver from around 80-4000, adding a ribbon or dome like the Seas 27TDC(no ferofluid), plus one of the faster 15" woofers. Yep...requires a crossover, but all of human voice would still be on the 206E.
I heard good results with a well stuffed tapered tube type of reverse horn that absorbs all the rear wave energy from the midrange.
Have you ever thought about using your FE206E as the wide bandwidth midrange in a 3-way? Several of the best speakers I have heard were 3-ways which used a full range driver from around 80-4000, adding a ribbon or dome like the Seas 27TDC(no ferofluid), plus one of the faster 15" woofers. Yep...requires a crossover, but all of human voice would still be on the 206E.
I heard good results with a well stuffed tapered tube type of reverse horn that absorbs all the rear wave energy from the midrange.
I used three 5'X5' sheets but I believe two 4'x8' should do it. 15/32" should be close to 0.700" thick.
The plans are in cart/chord points and are in inches. There is a guy who transposed to metric but still cart/chord. I started by cutting four pieces 17.7wide by 48tall. Then I measured and drew the points right on the plywood, to the right for X and up for Y. Then I connected the dots for a full size drawing right on the inner wall of the cabinet. You can then measure and cut the folds using the cabinet side to check with. BTW, if your amisdad......who's ami ?
There is someone here who uses FE206E in open baffle with a sealed Eton 11" but not a separate tweeter.
The plans are in cart/chord points and are in inches. There is a guy who transposed to metric but still cart/chord. I started by cutting four pieces 17.7wide by 48tall. Then I measured and drew the points right on the plywood, to the right for X and up for Y. Then I connected the dots for a full size drawing right on the inner wall of the cabinet. You can then measure and cut the folds using the cabinet side to check with. BTW, if your amisdad......who's ami ?
There is someone here who uses FE206E in open baffle with a sealed Eton 11" but not a separate tweeter.
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greetings all, firstly squalor its great to see you finaally got your dII's finished.you must be one tenacious bugger what with cyclones earthquakes and a sky full of fire etc. glad it didn't stop you or should I say ya'll. anyway thought i'd show mine off.It seems de come in all shapes.thats what diy is your own vision or in my case my own vision of someone elses great vision. oh well cheers fergs
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yeah I heard the good news he sounds very bouyant, and hopeful. Corner loading definately helps the lower freq and although on paper they only go to 50hz I don't feel like I'm missing anything.the bass is very controlled and defined, no woolness. these are being powered by a se kt66 triode straapped amp but just about to sell it and get a 300b, made by the same guy in melbourne by the name of earle weston, aka weston acoustics , his amps are fantastiic.hhe winds all his own trans . they sound superb.
the only thing I want to do with the dII's apart from shellacing them is too try thr phase plug not so much to tame hf but to inncrease soundstage. when I first got my drivers I was quite disconcerted with the ropie top end but they really do settle down after full breakin.the other thing I did was the styrene disk on the back of the magnet wwhich controlled the honk nicely.Rons no fool gotta run hope that helps fergs
the only thing I want to do with the dII's apart from shellacing them is too try thr phase plug not so much to tame hf but to inncrease soundstage. when I first got my drivers I was quite disconcerted with the ropie top end but they really do settle down after full breakin.the other thing I did was the styrene disk on the back of the magnet wwhich controlled the honk nicely.Rons no fool gotta run hope that helps fergs
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How do they look now ?
I used MinWax products; preStain conditioner, Golden Oak stain and fast dry Polyurethane. I know some may say metal grills are evil but I dont want anyone poking at my drivers, divoting my dust caps or wankin my whizzers.
I also used the hard styrofoam disks on the mags. In addition, I grounded the basket to the (-) terminal post and dampened the basket legs with rubber. I was going to do phase plugs with wooden eggs. I got some from a restaurant/country store here in the untied states called Cracker Barrel. Turns out they were hollow ceramic and very un-drillable so I may try something else or just hook up with Planet10 for some.
I want to sincerly thank everyone here at diyAudio for the help and friendship shown me these last few months. It is not I who should take a bow, but you.
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