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Hi -

It's an Itsy Bitsy Mitsubishi DLP Energy Star;)

I'm using the Mitsubishi 73" WD-73838. Which one is yours?

Thetubeguy1954 (Tom Scata)

SETriodes Forum -- Central Florida Audio Society -- Fullrange Drivers
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"The man that hath no music in himself nor is not moved with concord of
sweet sounds is fit for treasons, stratagems and spoils."
- William Shakespeare
 
Hi -

Mine is the 82837 82". For the size, there's no other display technology close in price. Is yours set up for 3D? I almost think I should have waited for the fully 3D compatible version with HDMI 1.4, but I thought at the time saving $600 was more important.

Well I'm impressed! I wished I had purchased the 82" now, but at the time I thought it was TOO BIG! Mine is 3D compatable in the setup section ---{as I'm sure yours is too}--- but I guess it requires some sort of additional box to become active because I cannot get into the area to set it up, or perhaps it has to "see" a 3D signal in order for setup to be accessed? I don't know...

Thetubeguy1954 (Tom Scata)

SETriodes Forum -- Central Florida Audio Society -- Fullrange Drivers
================================================== =======
"The man that hath no music in himself nor is not moved with concord of
sweet sounds is fit for treasons, stratagems and spoils."
- William Shakespeare
 
Btw, I wanted to mention that I found an almost laughably easy way to significantly drop the Fs of the 3" Aurasound driver or whatever exactly it is Parts Express is selling under the 289-106 number. This would probably be similarly effective for many other bass drivers, but YMMV and if you screw up a bass driver or the result is not to your liking, I cannot claim responsibility. I'm just suggesting a way to lower Fs that may not work or be suitable for some drivers. So, disclaimers out of the way, basically the spider is 'massaged' using a blunt but small enough object that it can basically fit between the 'grooves' of the spider and considerably flex them without significantly displacing the cone as a whole. If this is done around the entire perimeter of the spider for all the grooves, dramatic reductions in Fs are attainable for at least some drivers. For instance, in the prototype HT speakers I built above, I used this technique which took less than 5 minutes per driver and was able to reduce the actual Fs of all of them to the 55 - 62 hz range, from an initial 76 - 94 hz range. In most cases this amounts to more than a third of an octave, but for this application the results are worthwhile.

However, you should simulate the result of these parameter changes before performing this mod and keep in mind that reducing Fs in this manner will also affect Vas and the overall resonant Q of the driver (in the case of these drivers, the Qms was pretty high, so dropping it by about half was no problem at all). And if an overly sharp object or excessive force is used, the spider may be punctured or torn or the VC misaligned or a lead in wire damaged, so 'caveat emptor', among other caveats apply. But, I can say that I succeeded with this driver in 18 out of 18 tries with no failures (each passed an Xmax listening test after the mod), and only a few of them needed additional breakin to drop its Fs all the way down to 62 hz or below. Since I'm not completely crazed, I did not try to go for further Fs reductions, although probably at least some of these drivers might have allowed lowering their Fs to the 50 hz range, given how quickly I was able to lower these resonant frequencies.

PS: I considered doing this for the 2220A's I use in the Iron Law Breakers but my simulations showed this would not result in significant improvement in extension when considering that two or even three crucial db sensitivity at the bottom of the existing passband would be lost.
 
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