BIB, but two way...
These are pictures of my Biggest is Better 2ish ways.
They are done, but not "finished" yet.
Fostex 208 sigma crossed first order at 8KHz with a Fountek CD2.0 ribbon crossed 2nd order. I just stuffed it down to the woofer and at the base and added a zobel and I am not sure I can tell much difference.
they are under an overhang, 8' and maybe 3 1/2 ft deep. Then the room opens huge and has crazy side openings. Probably a good thing because under the overhang the bass is huge. It is nice, a bit mellow and fast at the listening area.
Sitting next to them is a pair of Acoustic Zen Adagios (maybe for sale?) that sound a bit muted in comparison with sluggish bass (still very good though) but much more forgiving. I have already found some recordings that I can't play on the BIBs, they just go harsh. I hope it is a break-in issue, but many other recordings sound fine.
I plan to clean up the birch and finish clear and paint the baffle red/orange like the amplifier.
Eventually I will try a pair of Hemp FC-8s and Visiton B200s just for kicks but they are designed for the fostex.
First speaker project!!!
These are pictures of my Biggest is Better 2ish ways.
They are done, but not "finished" yet.
Fostex 208 sigma crossed first order at 8KHz with a Fountek CD2.0 ribbon crossed 2nd order. I just stuffed it down to the woofer and at the base and added a zobel and I am not sure I can tell much difference.
they are under an overhang, 8' and maybe 3 1/2 ft deep. Then the room opens huge and has crazy side openings. Probably a good thing because under the overhang the bass is huge. It is nice, a bit mellow and fast at the listening area.
Sitting next to them is a pair of Acoustic Zen Adagios (maybe for sale?) that sound a bit muted in comparison with sluggish bass (still very good though) but much more forgiving. I have already found some recordings that I can't play on the BIBs, they just go harsh. I hope it is a break-in issue, but many other recordings sound fine.
I plan to clean up the birch and finish clear and paint the baffle red/orange like the amplifier.
Eventually I will try a pair of Hemp FC-8s and Visiton B200s just for kicks but they are designed for the fostex.
First speaker project!!!
Attachments
cool. good job.
are the fostex new? the BOFU speakers i use did take a while to break in.
how tall are the BiB?
Thank you!
I bought the Fostex used, but I forgot how much that had been used. I recall "not broken in yet" but it was a while ago. So I really don't know what to expect. somewhere between 0 and 500 hrs
the boxes are 80" tall, so with some feet are just taller than the doors in the pictures. They are about 10" x 14" in other dimensions.
Anyone with thoughts on adding a BSC? I don't think I should need one, but am not sure. I do do some digital room correction up front, necessary for this crazy room.
Thank you!
I bought the Fostex used, but I forgot how much that had been used. I recall "not broken in yet" but it was a while ago. So I really don't know what to expect. somewhere between 0 and 500 hrs
the boxes are 80" tall, so with some feet are just taller than the doors in the pictures. They are about 10" x 14" in other dimensions.
Anyone with thoughts on adding a BSC? I don't think I should need one, but am not sure. I do do some digital room correction up front, necessary for this crazy room.
Hello Jrenkin,
We seem to be traveling a similar path. I don't have BIB cabinets i'm using Sachiko's, but I've installed the FE208ES-R with large Heils to their outside. If you look at the photo below on the left you'll see how my system is setup. The only difference between when this photo was taken now is:
- I've added a black panel to the front of the Sachikos. This was done so I can try different 8" drivers without worrying about marring the Rosewood veneer. You can see this on the right side of the photo.
- I replaced the FE206E drivers with the much better FE208ES-R drivers.
- I placed large Heils to the inside of the Sachikos to extend highend to 25KHz.
Now I'm trying to fiqure out a way that I can more permanently make a piece that will hold the heils next to the FE208ES-R drivers that looks nice. If you'd like to see better photos of my audio room and the components I'm using just click on this link!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Wow! Nice. I thought of the Sachiko's and think I may have tried them if my room didn't have an overhang over the speakers. Of course, this was my first built, so the BIB are much simpler.
Why not build a thin stand, that matches the Sachiko, for the Heils and just place them next to the horn? No need for them to be attached.
Bet they sound nice with the 845 driving them....
Why not build a thin stand, that matches the Sachiko, for the Heils and just place them next to the horn? No need for them to be attached.
Bet they sound nice with the 845 driving them....
had a pair of the amt1a speakers a few years back. one of the best sounds there is. wish i kept them, especially the tweets.
you might know the chap that gave me the hedlund cabs. got them from orlando.
Hello Nuconz.
Orlando is a large place was his name perhaps Paul B. or maybe his friend?
Thetubeguy1954 (Tom Scata)
Hello Robert,
I believe we may have met at one of the CFAS meetings because your name sounds familiar. Of course it quite possible that it could simply be that Paul B. just mentioned to me that you're the one he sold/gave his nephew or friends Hedlunds to one time ---{I remember when they were sitting in his house}--- and that could be why your name sounds familiar too!
I was the guy with the shaved head and mustache at the CFAS meetings, at least when CFAS held their annual meetings at WMFE, that is. In any event nice speaking with you and hope you're still enjoying those Hedlunds! What drivers are you using in them and have you tried other drivers? I've tried 3 different drivers in the Sachikos before finally settling on the FE208ES-R drivers.
Thetubeguy1954 (Tom Scata)
I believe we may have met at one of the CFAS meetings because your name sounds familiar. Of course it quite possible that it could simply be that Paul B. just mentioned to me that you're the one he sold/gave his nephew or friends Hedlunds to one time ---{I remember when they were sitting in his house}--- and that could be why your name sounds familiar too!
I was the guy with the shaved head and mustache at the CFAS meetings, at least when CFAS held their annual meetings at WMFE, that is. In any event nice speaking with you and hope you're still enjoying those Hedlunds! What drivers are you using in them and have you tried other drivers? I've tried 3 different drivers in the Sachikos before finally settling on the FE208ES-R drivers.
Thetubeguy1954 (Tom Scata)
i'm not robert. i'm frank. robert gave me the hedlund cabs.
i haven't been to the CFAS, i just remember Robert mentioning something about this group. i drove to orlando to get the cabs in june.
he said something about there being more than 1 pair of them.
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For Zakman35
Hello Zakman35, I post you some link where you can see some photo of my creation. The cover of pre and amp is semitrasparent dark grey and the VU meter light shows part of the content. Thanks for your appreciation
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Finale_e_pre_2.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Finale_interno2.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Finale_pre_accesi.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/FInale_pre_spenti.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/FInale_pre_spenti.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Fronte.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Pre_interno_2.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Retro.jpg
Hello Zakman35, I post you some link where you can see some photo of my creation. The cover of pre and amp is semitrasparent dark grey and the VU meter light shows part of the content. Thanks for your appreciation
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Finale_e_pre_2.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Finale_interno2.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Finale_pre_accesi.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/FInale_pre_spenti.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/FInale_pre_spenti.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Fronte.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Pre_interno_2.jpg
http://web.tiscali.it/typeandtype/DIYaudio/Retro.jpg
OMG wow that is sooo good. You should sell these (not hte ones you made for your self but make and sell). Superb. Simply Superb.
HT speaker prototypes
I built these out of 5" and 5 1/2" mailing tubes I had laying around and some spare 3/8" plywood & MDF scraps. Because of this, I could glue almost everything together except for some pieces in the bases & was able to complete both cabinets in one day. These are prototypes and I will make something a bit more solid for the final HT speakers. The drivers used are the Parts Express 289-106 they are selling for $7-8 apiece, which is a pretty good deal, IMO, since they are an Aurasound 'knock off' & share many of their virtues such as an underhung VC, long excursion and neodymium magnet. I performed a modification that brought the Fs of these speakers to about 60 hz which helps materially in their bass extension. The drivers are basically series/parallel wired to maintain the nominal 8 ohm characteristic.
I decided to use some xover components to avoid as much line array 'phasiness' as I could while also flattening the frequency response, so the outer six drivers are run below about 1.5khz to compensate for the baffle step of this cabinet. The center 3 provide the higher frequencies. Of these, the outer two extend out to about 5khz, and the center driver has a peaking circuit to boost the HF up to ~9db at 20khz, thus giving a reasonably flat response from 50hz to 20khz (including room gain) with an estimated average efficiency of about 87db/w/m. This HF peaking seems as if it should stress the driver's power handling a lot more than it actually does, since the driver impedance goes all the way up to 75 ohms at 20khz and an estimated power handling of ~200Wrms. Eventually, I plan to build subwoofers to go with these in a 7.1 channel configuration, but these two don't sound too bad to me as they stand for a start.
I built these out of 5" and 5 1/2" mailing tubes I had laying around and some spare 3/8" plywood & MDF scraps. Because of this, I could glue almost everything together except for some pieces in the bases & was able to complete both cabinets in one day. These are prototypes and I will make something a bit more solid for the final HT speakers. The drivers used are the Parts Express 289-106 they are selling for $7-8 apiece, which is a pretty good deal, IMO, since they are an Aurasound 'knock off' & share many of their virtues such as an underhung VC, long excursion and neodymium magnet. I performed a modification that brought the Fs of these speakers to about 60 hz which helps materially in their bass extension. The drivers are basically series/parallel wired to maintain the nominal 8 ohm characteristic.
I decided to use some xover components to avoid as much line array 'phasiness' as I could while also flattening the frequency response, so the outer six drivers are run below about 1.5khz to compensate for the baffle step of this cabinet. The center 3 provide the higher frequencies. Of these, the outer two extend out to about 5khz, and the center driver has a peaking circuit to boost the HF up to ~9db at 20khz, thus giving a reasonably flat response from 50hz to 20khz (including room gain) with an estimated average efficiency of about 87db/w/m. This HF peaking seems as if it should stress the driver's power handling a lot more than it actually does, since the driver impedance goes all the way up to 75 ohms at 20khz and an estimated power handling of ~200Wrms. Eventually, I plan to build subwoofers to go with these in a 7.1 channel configuration, but these two don't sound too bad to me as they stand for a start.
Attachments
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I found something interesting regarding my pseudo-arrays:
A 'PBJ' in another forum posted the following regarding the transition from near field to far field in a vertical speaker array:
transition distance = ((array length ^2)*frequency)/2300
and that for a distance of 1 meter, the maximum array lengths were as follows to avoid the near field effect (i.e. much frequency response irregularity):
10khz - 0.265M (0.87ft)
5khz - 0.374M (1.23ft)
2.5khz - 0.53M (1.74ft)
1khz - 0.837M (2.75ft)
500hz - 1.18M (4.2ft)
250hz - 1.67M (5.48ft)
100hz - 2.65M (8.69ft)
Being lazy, I find it very useful that 'PBJ' chose a distance of 1 meter to calculate these numbers, since, for my HT surround application, it is possible that some watchers/listeners may be that close to one of them. By luck or happenstance, my HT design appears to be on the good side of these numbers, except possibly between 1.0 - 1.5 khz. So, I'll make a special note to group the drivers as closely together as possible in my final design which should limit the array height to about 31.5" where the prototypes in the photo are at 36".
A 'PBJ' in another forum posted the following regarding the transition from near field to far field in a vertical speaker array:
transition distance = ((array length ^2)*frequency)/2300
and that for a distance of 1 meter, the maximum array lengths were as follows to avoid the near field effect (i.e. much frequency response irregularity):
10khz - 0.265M (0.87ft)
5khz - 0.374M (1.23ft)
2.5khz - 0.53M (1.74ft)
1khz - 0.837M (2.75ft)
500hz - 1.18M (4.2ft)
250hz - 1.67M (5.48ft)
100hz - 2.65M (8.69ft)
Being lazy, I find it very useful that 'PBJ' chose a distance of 1 meter to calculate these numbers, since, for my HT surround application, it is possible that some watchers/listeners may be that close to one of them. By luck or happenstance, my HT design appears to be on the good side of these numbers, except possibly between 1.0 - 1.5 khz. So, I'll make a special note to group the drivers as closely together as possible in my final design which should limit the array height to about 31.5" where the prototypes in the photo are at 36".
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