Yeah my "pro Dolby box" is not too high tech these days as it's old. I acquired it from eBay for just $100; it's a Dolby DP564 - take care if you go this way as many are far from full working condition. MITSound had the matrix circuit exactly right for an "early" CC. I find my CC from two Onkens (I built two just for flexibility, but drive both equally) from a PLIIx signal derivation a better center for the front soundfield than running stereo in the Onkens, especially when the singer is center stage. I dove pretty hard on multi-channel notions before making the move to 3.1 from 2.1 ~ I was already pretty pleased with the soundstage and ready to tear it out if it wasn't completely complimentary. Now, I wouldn't go back. The DP564 also gives me added capability to drive discrete or derived 5.1 if I go that way down the road... but music is always the focus, not movies.
Very much appreciated. I'll try to "fish" a ProLogic II; mainstream AVR/DSP are cheap used, but take up too much room.
Ongoing related discussion https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ntom-center-image-problem.393540/post-7546771
Re: Hafler differential cross-wiring, what threw me at first was the subtle symmetry-breaking. The center speaker wired one way or in reverse-polarity actually decided the front speakers being L | R versus (-R) | (-L). Spooky action at a distance
Ongoing related discussion https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ntom-center-image-problem.393540/post-7546771
Re: Hafler differential cross-wiring, what threw me at first was the subtle symmetry-breaking. The center speaker wired one way or in reverse-polarity actually decided the front speakers being L | R versus (-R) | (-L). Spooky action at a distance
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I wired on a 2.1 setup for home cinema small closed box 4ohm 8cm fullranges as stereo rear speakers with 18 ohms in line on the floor in the corners facing up for indirect sound field.
Very low distortion due to Esa Merilainens simple resistor method.
Makes nice room sound field as it pushes the stereo soundfield into the middle of the room.
Very low distortion due to Esa Merilainens simple resistor method.
Makes nice room sound field as it pushes the stereo soundfield into the middle of the room.
A little dated, maybe even out of vogue, but some new drivers had me build some Blanda Matt salad bowl full range speakers for new "needs." It only took 4 hrs after supply chains caught up with ideas. I liked the notion of no standing waves and few diffraction issues in spheres. The sealed version models had expected weak performance with both the wild Tang Band W6-2356s and Fostex FE108NSs, so I went ported. The Tang Bands have slightly better bass but either would require subwoofer support. The Fostex New Sols are better near field, especially if near a rear wall, and (surprisingly to me) off axis ~ they are also better @ 3 m as well, and more efficient. My full build process is described HERE, but variants have been offered prior in many posts. Sometimes, even at your desk, you don't wanna wear headphones.
Here is a pair of the floorstandind ML-TL for Markaudio CHN-50. Made out of an old TV cabinet. Front and Top are solid alder wood. Sides and back are pressboard with alder veneer I think. The sidepanels I had to extend. To hide the joint I routered a darker peace in.
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So very fine... must've been a stellar TV cabinet as well. Next stops include MLTLs.
Blanda Bamboo Bass... Maybe this belongs in the subs forum but... the prior posted 8" Blanda 108 mains are now supported with an 11" Blanda Sub. I used the big serving bowls from Ikea and loaded a Tang Band W6-2253S (chosen in part for size but also sealed performance) driven by a simple 100w external (to preserve subwoofer cabinet volume) plate amp. I suspend the sub in a matching elevated dog bowl holder . Integration of Sub & 108s is solid whether listening at the desk or listening from across the room. A subwoofer is a great add to the full range mains. The build process is described HERE.
. Integration of Sub & 108s is solid whether listening at the desk or listening from across the room. A subwoofer is a great add to the full range mains. The build process is described HERE.
Perhaps I'm A (K)Now(N) XOvers Allowed; Dunno... DSP, Who's To Argue Manipulative? - Arrgh. Since the silence is deafening and my punctuation and ear are excellent. Who doesn't see the rolloff? I have an 11" salad server (the left part of the graph), two keen 4" near-field table bowls with drivers (the middle), and "nothin'(g) honey" upstairs (heh heh, > 5K). I need help to find the best tweeter, that dovetails with the drivers below, and fits inside a Blanda Matt 5" "sphere" with its passive xover. It'll be driven by an early T-Amp. I'd prefer a cheap soft dome or rightly-tuned horn (size is an issue); I've just begun the search. Oh yeah, not that it matters most but help me place this notion on the fourums everywhere appropriate for acute feedback (not for my entire body of work, of course, just this). I've seen 0-1 super-tweeter(s) in a Blanda cabinet, ever. Thanks.
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Yes - no cymbals here. I need a tweeter in a 5” Blanda bowl with a high pass.
I don't know what the heck was wrong with my test strapping prior. I'm fine with nice full range Blandas 108s supported by the Blanda Sub. Aliens stole my WiFi or something. I measured near and far and better integrated the sub (125Hz XOver). Sheesh ~ sorry for the goose chase.
Hi, How do the Storm Shadows sound? I am new to the forum and to FR speakers and thinking of building a pair. Being new I am not allowed to ask in a conversation directly. Appreciate any insights and advice. Thank you.
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Hi,
For their small size, they are very successful.
Jazz, blues and vocals sound great. Maybe it is difficult to believe, however they have a wonderful bass.
Thanks to Scott Lindgren for the excellent plan and Mark Audio for the cool drivers.
I have made some constructive changes but all internal sizes were kept.
For side walls and front I used the MDF 18 mm thick.
Hope this will somehow help you.
For their small size, they are very successful.
Jazz, blues and vocals sound great. Maybe it is difficult to believe, however they have a wonderful bass.
Thanks to Scott Lindgren for the excellent plan and Mark Audio for the cool drivers.
I have made some constructive changes but all internal sizes were kept.
For side walls and front I used the MDF 18 mm thick.
Hope this will somehow help you.
Here are my "brutalist" open baffle speakers with Lii Audio Fast 15 drivers. They're built from surplus birch plywood sheets that were cut, glued, and cut again to get a good edge. Base is a solid chunk with a mortise and tenon into the front baffle. Adjustable threaded feet are from Herbie's Audio. If Fred Flintstone owned a pair of speakers they might look like this (but be made of stone). Feel free to poo poo open baffle speakers, Lii Audio products, whatever you want but I really love the sound of these and when I plugged my beloved monkey coffins back in I was dismayed. Something about the reflection off the back wall when they're pulled out, the immediacy of percussion, and the smoothness and realism of horns and vocals hooks me. They do need DSP in the 4-6k range and first aid on the top, or at least a notch filter to tame the shoutiness, but these Lii's do most things surprisingly well all on their own. My subs fill in the bottom end quite well and the top is surprisingly good but does need a bit of help. They're beamy so I wanted them at ear level and to not keystone the stereo image like the ones you see from Decware and the Betsy guy. Also fragile speakers close to the floor are a no no with dogs. Black grill cloth coming soon. Anticables 4.2 Flex were just built at half price using parts ordered from Paul Speltz-sound great so far!
