They're in... well, almost...
(1) The maop unit is a smidge bigger than the alpair11ms, so some gentle 'rasping' will be required for a snug fit (its about 1mm or so)
(2) I can tell a distinct difference already, honest! I left them running for 40-ish hours with looped Keith Jarret in Koln. The soundstage is no wider, but (I'm certain) they are much more crisp, immediate, confident; the sound has a sense of presence & proportion - so much so that:
(3) I'm satisfied there's a big improvement - especially with some of my favourites. For example, I feel like I'm sitting in the studio with Ella Fitzgerald & Joe Pass, as opposed to listening to them (esp. A Foggy Day, from take Love Easy, 1973)
(4) I might be deluded, I might be suffering from "new stuff" syndrome, but today I'm very happy.
There's time yet...
If anything changes... I promise to let y'all know
My current folded open baffles, used between two systems and a sub.
Trying out (yet again) a rear firing tweeters, but I think it's not staying.
In phase with the front, it ruins imaging. In phase with the rear, it's inaudible.
A wider sweet spot than with my 12 inch whizzer cones, and after fussing with a few styrofoam panels and configurations, no eq required for these.
My best home theatre system speakers, and my best sub sat speakers.
Trying out (yet again) a rear firing tweeters, but I think it's not staying.
In phase with the front, it ruins imaging. In phase with the rear, it's inaudible.
A wider sweet spot than with my 12 inch whizzer cones, and after fussing with a few styrofoam panels and configurations, no eq required for these.
My best home theatre system speakers, and my best sub sat speakers.
Attachments
Tall and angular. Ever take it apart for a peek inside? I had a pair of D700 Tannoys year ago, in which the DC cone on one had a factory defect which caused it to split apart vertically. I removed the unit for warrantee service. What was advertised as a ported speaker had a dividing wall which supported tge driver motor/magnet. It looked very much like a transmission line, adding signal path and reflections to the cabinet end in front, from one end to the exit would make for a line about 13 or 14 feet.
Maybe explains how it seemed to be flat and rock solid to 30hz without much excursion.
i figured the nicer they look the less i would worry about them not being a two way and wouldnt have to include the dark art of crossovers!!
ive got a little cnc router tucked away in the garage so that was a 6mm ball end mill pecking at different depths.
i machined the cut out for the driver and the vent and included a little round over using a 0.25mm tapered bit, took forever...
ive got a little cnc router tucked away in the garage so that was a 6mm ball end mill pecking at different depths.
i machined the cut out for the driver and the vent and included a little round over using a 0.25mm tapered bit, took forever...
Absolutely lovely work - a true statement peice for the room.
You've inspired me... I have some Pluvia 11s in a 'boombox' project (post #4871) that I don't use very often and a bunch of beautiful hardwood lengths that would suit a Pensil 11.
You've inspired me... I have some Pluvia 11s in a 'boombox' project (post #4871) that I don't use very often and a bunch of beautiful hardwood lengths that would suit a Pensil 11.
Not into watching videos, but the first thing to come up is a CHR-70 WAW tower. A quick skim does not show what conection wire he used for the CHR but if it is the same s for the woofers, he could do better.
And just before a CHP WAW.
dave
Build of the Woden Baby Labs Bloodhound with CHN-50. Made from 12mm multiply birch. Applied water based stain in mahagoni bright. 1 Layer of hard wax oil. Still burning in, but already impressive what this small speaker can do.
I have not yet decided what to do with the cable terminal. Its to deep to fit in the back panel. My idea is to build a sort of back pack to compensate the depth or just leave the cables as is .
I have not yet decided what to do with the cable terminal. Its to deep to fit in the back panel. My idea is to build a sort of back pack to compensate the depth or just leave the cables as is
.Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
8cm JVC fullrange driver, both sides covered with thin aluminum foil from the gold Smith (sandwich structure) and copper Faraday ring in plastic box from TV production.
See:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...loudspeaker-sandwich-cone.402917/post-7443470
Subwoofer reflex loaded, 8cm reflex diameter, damped 30% with baf wadding and low tuned in a marble box. It's Galala marble.
20cm no name driver (Skytronic) with polypropylene cone. I added a big paper dust cap for more stability. It's for watching TV.
One ohm in line with the fullrange driver (Esa Merilainens simple resistor method, see website current drive info) I took it out again. Distortion gets too low. It sounds nicer with a little bit of distortion.
See:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...loudspeaker-sandwich-cone.402917/post-7443470
Subwoofer reflex loaded, 8cm reflex diameter, damped 30% with baf wadding and low tuned in a marble box. It's Galala marble.
20cm no name driver (Skytronic) with polypropylene cone. I added a big paper dust cap for more stability. It's for watching TV.
One ohm in line with the fullrange driver (Esa Merilainens simple resistor method, see website current drive info) I took it out again. Distortion gets too low. It sounds nicer with a little bit of distortion.
Attachments
Last edited:
Since you only need a single pair of terminals for this driver, a shallower recessed cup or even surface mount binding posts could suffice quite nicely.Build of the Woden Baby Labs Bloodhound with CHN-50. Made from 12mm multiply birch. Applied water based stain in mahagoni bright. 1 Layer of hard wax oil. Still burning in, but already impressive what this small speaker can do.
I have not yet decided what to do with the cable terminal. Its to deep to fit in the back panel. My idea is to build a sort of back pack to compensate the depth or just leave the cables as is
With a single 1/2” layer of scrap material as a spacer the smaller cup wouldn’t intrude into the space of the final fold significantly, and the surface mount plate would only require a pair of holes for the wires (1/4”, or 6mm, I think)
I used literally hundreds of a cheap 2” recessed cup over the years, and could never get anyone to demonstrate the sonic advantage of the heavy mass, gold plated audiophile jewellery types - the advantages of lack of formal ear training and low standards, I guess
Attachments
I used scrap pieces I had lying around to fabric the backpacks. They are about 30mm deep. The cap alone is something a little over 20mm. I think (I hopeSince you only need a single pair of terminals for this driver, a shallower recessed cup or even surface mount binding posts could suffice quite nicely.
With a single 1/2” layer of scrap material as a spacer the smaller cup wouldn’t intrude into the space of the final fold significantly, and the surface mount plate would only require a pair of holes for the wires (1/4”, or 6mm, I think)
I used literally hundreds of a cheap 2” recessed cup over the years, and could never get anyone to demonstrate the sonic advantage of the heavy mass, gold plated audiophile jewellery types - the advantages of lack of formal ear training and low standards, I guess
) I have not destoreyed the bookshelf capability since they cant be placed against a wall anyway because of the port.I drilled a hole 25mm in diameter to pull the cable through.
Attachments
Last edited:
