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#231 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Here is the thread.... http://fullrangedriver.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=283 There is also a side firing version dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#232 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: California
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Is there a source for the angles of the cuts on the internal horn pieces in these Fostex designs?
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#233 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#234 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Vancouver Isl. B.C.
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One way to get your "cut-angles" is to do your lay-out on cardboard, then you can measure them
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#235 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Edinburgh
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Hi again,
These are Kef R107, They have a frequency range of 18hz - 20khz at around +-2db. 90db sensitivity , 4ohm resistive. |
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#236 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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OK, i've listened to the RonHorns vrs the little Fostex design....
... a big windstorm left us with no power yesterday so my 1st opportunity to comment. As they are, the RonHorns are... well, not listenable. The closed in (some would say honky) midrange trumps any of the things they do well (ie they do the bass VERY well, not exceptionally low, but very articulate & well controlled, with rythym & pace). Ron gave a good little treatise on the design compromises/choices with this design and there is a clear path with a good chance of clearing up their ills. The prime suspect is the quite small compresion chamber... to make it larger without any other changes invites a hole below the bafflestep (~650 hz) and where the horn would take over with a larger CC (~200-250 Hz -- the larger the CC all other things being equal, the lower the mechanical/acoustic XO on the backhorn). The fix is to move the BS point down in frequancy, so a larger baffle is needed. The trick is to do it in a manner that is cosmetically acceptable. We affixed a cut from cardboard "prototype" -- just to get an idea on the cosmetic imapact (the cardboard ones win no prizes at all) -- even thou we knew that without changing the CC they shouldn't prove anything. To our surprise the top end improved. A prototype fix & plan of action has been hatched. If the prototype takes us in the right direction, we'll talk to our CNC guy about something real pretty. I'm really glad we built these... they are teaching us some valuable things before we set out own horn into wood. The little Fostex babies were literally a relief to install back into the system. They show the promise of the FE126E in the midrange... they leave us speculating about FAST systems for the FE126e thou, as the bass, althou there is a surprising amount, can not be desribed as controlled. dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#237 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
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Hi Dave,
What are your impressions of the FE126E vs the FE103 and the FE127E? The Fostex FE126E reccomended enclosure looks good. I like the little change you made. Regards, Gio.
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DIY Audio Projects [ 10" DIY Subwoofer | FE127E Sealed Bipole | [ LM3886 Chip Amp / Gainclone | K-12M Tube Amp Kit ] |
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#238 | ||
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
The FE126 is more forward in the mids and i'd give it the edge in definition (in the Fostex box) It is a 6 of 1, half-a-dozen of the other between thr FE127 in the diyaudio ref and the FE126 in the Fostex box. Quote:
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#239 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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Sorry to interrupt...
Just tossed on a different finish to my DP-II's tonight. Shouldda done the blue "spackle" to begin with
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#240 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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That finish looks really nice Geek.
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