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Old 23rd January 2006, 04:56 AM   #191
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Default BD Pipes with Radio Shack 40-1197

I have finally finished a speaker projet! The BD-Pipes is a bi-pole TQWP designed by Bert Doppenberg. It houses four Radio Shack 40-1197 (FE-103) 4" drivers and there are no filters or BSC.

The drivers are still breaking in, but thus far, I am very impressed with the sound. The sound is very detailed and the drivers are fast. The upper mid-range is a little bright, but I am hoping that this will change as the drivers break in. The imaging is excellent and the response is quite extended. I will eventually try some tweeters. I am a little surprised with the amount of bass these little 4" drivers produce. So far I am very pleased with the results. The speakers are very revealing and now I feel compelled to upgrade my preamp and CDP.

I have some pictures of the constuction posted in this thread:

BD-Pipes with Radio Shack 40-1197

Overall, I am very pleased. Paint with come in the summer and I should get a webpage up in the next few weeks.
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File Type: jpg bd-sm.jpg (17.6 KB, 8203 views)
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Old 23rd January 2006, 10:48 PM   #192
Illusus is offline Illusus  Canada
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maxro- 'monkey coffins'. I like them.
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Old 24th January 2006, 02:16 AM   #193
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"Now as you know, the amount of dropping depends on some factors: reflecting/arbsorbing properties of reflector (form of reflector, geometric details of reflector, material of reflector, surface finish of reflector, placement of reflector relative to driver), reflecting/arbsorbing properties of surfaces close to reflector (upper surface of speaker box, walls). "

You didn't mention perhaps the biggest reason - a driver with flat on-axis response has it only by virtue of the increasing directivity,

The power response (total output) decreases with increasing freq, so when you spread the treble all around, the high end will be rolled off.
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Old 24th January 2006, 04:01 AM   #194
maxro is offline maxro  Canada
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Quote:
Originally posted by Illusus
maxro- 'monkey coffins'. I like them.
Thanks.

Maybe I should put a photo of a monkey face on the back of the rear driver. Then, if someone were to remove the front driver it would creep the hell out of them.

Maybe not.

I forgot to mention that the drivers are attached to each other by aluminum rods connecting the flange mounting bolts. The rods "float" in holes in the cabinets and the driver flanges are sealed with blutack.

Max
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Old 24th January 2006, 07:27 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally posted by maxro
Here's my first DIY speaker project. FR125S in a pair of mass-loaded, tapered transmission line, bipoles. (Would that be CSSFR125SMLTTLBP?) I used one 5x5' sheet of Baltic birch with minimal leftovers.
Very interesting implementation with the driver where the port would be & the port where the driver would be -- if you were doing an ML-Voigt.

dave

PS: can i post this project with drawings on my box-plan pages?
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Old 24th January 2006, 08:05 AM   #196
maxro is offline maxro  Canada
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Quote:
Originally posted by planet10
can i post this project with drawings on my box-plan pages?
Please do. If you need a better image, let me know. I created the drawing in Qcad and it is saved as a .dxf.

A few notes:

Material is one 5'x5' sheet of 15mm baltic birch.

The rods connecting the drivers are 1/4" aluminum solid rod, cut to 161mm (slightly longer than the recesses in the cabinets are apart) and end drilled and tapped for 5mm shallow head bolts. Make these after the cabinets are all glued up so that you can get the length just right. They are not attached to the cabinets, just slid through holes in them.

Drivers are sealed to the cabinets with Blutack.

The voids at the bottom corners and at the top end of the line are filled with fine sand.

The cabinets are stuffed with about 6oz of regular old polyester pillow stuffing each. The stuffing has to be put in before gluing the cabinets together as I don't think it would be possible to get the stuffing into that top corner. The area around the drivers has no stuffing, but I glued some 1/2" thick "unknown fibre" (mostly cotton) felt across the top and about 8" down the side walls

The ports are 2" black plastic ABS pipe.

Internal wiring is a single run of CAT 5. Drivers are wired Parallel.

The feet are made of 3/4" square aluminum stock. I got lazy and did not end up notching them to cup the cabinets' bases as shown in the drawing.

All cabinet edges are 45 degree chamfered the full thickness of the plywood.

Any ideas for albums which might make my drivers overexcurse from frequencies too low for the port? I've been trying all sorts of stuff, and have yet to see the drivers 'pumping'. Not that I want to ruin my drivers, I just want to know their limitations.

Here's the MJK Mathcad simulated response:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...967#post809967

Max
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Old 24th January 2006, 08:17 AM   #197
maxro is offline maxro  Canada
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p.s.

Dave, about the single driver matching service I read about somewhere, did that ever happen?

I have a single Wharfedale Super 12/CS/AL that needs a mate. Got any? Want one?

Max
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Old 24th January 2006, 10:14 AM   #198
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Quote:
Originally posted by maxro
about the single driver matching service I read about somewhere, did that ever happen?

I have a single Wharfedale Super 12/CS/AL that needs a mate. Got any? Want one?
I have a working database, and at least a 100 single drivers, but the "Single Driver Mating Service" hasn't hit the top of the lengthy queue of unfinished projects yet.

An single alnico Super 12 fetches reasonable money on eBay, a ceramic one not so much.

dave
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Old 24th January 2006, 06:02 PM   #199
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Default Fostex BK10 kit

http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/g.../BK10_plan.jpg

http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/g...buu77/bk10.jpg
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Old 24th January 2006, 07:13 PM   #200
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Default Re: Fostex BK10 kit


Got a url to the web page? ... AC is delivering an unhappy face to anyone accessing the pic from outside their domain.

Click the image to open in full size.

dave

(Note: if you already have the pic in your browser cache, it may show the right image)
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