I posted my reply to this interesting question in IKEA Lack full range speakers thread.
Ciao.
Luca
Scan Speak 10F 8424 Bob B. suggest PVC pipe
What could be simpler?
Haven't connected them yet...haven't found a pillow to borrow stuffing from.
They will be Xed at 350Hz with a pair of Dayton R2225s in 55lt boxes.
What could be simpler?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Haven't connected them yet...haven't found a pillow to borrow stuffing from.
They will be Xed at 350Hz with a pair of Dayton R2225s in 55lt boxes.
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I just pickup Alpair10p from post office yesterday, only paid $180 SGD from singapore distributor, using cheapest shipment with 4weeks delivery, plus around $15 for local customs fee.
ideal box should be FHXL which I have the plan, plywood ready in the garage, but I never build any speaker box yet and no any cutting tools. maybe oneday i'll buy jigsaw plus router and build fhxl.
I cant wait to listen, so I use my 3way floorstand box for a while. original woofer is 7" so i need to make mdf adaptor. Low bass is impressive, the cone even move on heavy track, just like a regular woofer. I wonder how FHXL low bass will be, must be wonderfull.
high sparkle is missing a little, so i use the tweeter with 3.3uf in series 3pcs.
Now i'm smiling with this new speaker, let it burn and hopefully i dont need extra tweeter later
ideal box should be FHXL which I have the plan, plywood ready in the garage, but I never build any speaker box yet and no any cutting tools. maybe oneday i'll buy jigsaw plus router and build fhxl.
I cant wait to listen, so I use my 3way floorstand box for a while. original woofer is 7" so i need to make mdf adaptor. Low bass is impressive, the cone even move on heavy track, just like a regular woofer. I wonder how FHXL low bass will be, must be wonderfull.
high sparkle is missing a little, so i use the tweeter with 3.3uf in series 3pcs.
Now i'm smiling with this new speaker, let it burn and hopefully i dont need extra tweeter later
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I want alpair 10m or 10p. But I am not sure my amp which is pass f5 with 29w. Alpairs 89 and 87db.
Which pre and power amp do you use?
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why not using fhxl or pensil which have been proven? OB is also interesting, another 2woofer of eminence 15" is not too expensive
how big is your room? as you can se my room is small 2.6x2.6m. I use dcb1 and J2 clone (right silver chassis), my maximum volume is 13.00 position. my M2 board is fully populated, but i have to remove AlephJ from the chassis (left silver chassis). My final amplifier for Alpair10p should be SIT L'amp, bottom left on the rack, waiting to be completed.
I never had push pull amplifier yet, M2 will be the first, but you dont need to worry about F5 to drive those alpairs, even single ended still have more available power.
The PVC pipe is for upper frequencies only, not suitable as a single driver system, needs a woofer below 300Hz. Other larger box designs will provide bass.
I was thinking about a F.A.S.T. system. Planning to add a 12" woofer or subwoofer along with the alpairs. The speaker system I'm thinking about should be in active xo configuration. I'm thinking about crossing them @150hz or less.
In that case which design should I be following for the FRs? BLH, TL or Open Baffle?
There's another interesting concept i found lately in another thread. It's Cornu's spiral horn. I've been looking into Martin J King's TL/Horn designs as well.
Any suggestions will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Saikat
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My room isnot big but tall. 3,4x6m. My listening position is at 5m. I use marantz avr for pre amp but it will be aikido 9pin. It is waiting to be completed.
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FH XL sounds interesting. But I cannot keep my speakers very far from rear wall. That's a constraint I have to live with. As FHXLs are rear open horns, I've to choose carefully.
Initially I thought about a concept inspired by pureaudioproject's dual 15" and one FR. I do agree that the eminence drivers are not that costly. But the shipping cost is coming almost same or more than the driver itself. Let me check if I can find any local distributor for Eminence in my country.
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Very nice!
How do you get paint to stick to PVC? I'm having all sorts of trouble with the paint chipping away.
It's all in the prep
Wipe down the PVC with a solvent such as alcohol to remove any contaminants.
Thoroughly sand with 220 grit, wipe down again.
I had a can of white Rust-Oleum "UltraCover paint+primer so I put on two coats.
A week later I sprayed on a couple of coats of Rust-Oleum "Hammered Paint & Primer in One".
The painted PVC pipes spent a week in front of the heater curing before I handled them much.
Both cans say "Also bonds to plastic".
I think the trick is in the preparation, no oils, waxes etc, roughed up surface.
It's amazing what you can get in a spray can these days.
Cheers, Mack
Wipe down the PVC with a solvent such as alcohol to remove any contaminants.
Thoroughly sand with 220 grit, wipe down again.
I had a can of white Rust-Oleum "UltraCover paint+primer so I put on two coats.
A week later I sprayed on a couple of coats of Rust-Oleum "Hammered Paint & Primer in One".
The painted PVC pipes spent a week in front of the heater curing before I handled them much.
Both cans say "Also bonds to plastic".
I think the trick is in the preparation, no oils, waxes etc, roughed up surface.
It's amazing what you can get in a spray can these days.
Cheers, Mack