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tade 10th September 2005 03:05 PM

Fostex FE206E phase plug
Anyone have any idea what the size of the socket they use in this driver is? : ) It think they have discovered a neat cheap trick which we could easily duplicate.

Dumbass 10th September 2005 04:08 PM

The Socket phase plug made the driver sound smoother by taking out some of the nasle, honky sound. Also the speaker, stock, has a hole in the dust cap that whistles at low frequencies. At 45 hz you can stand 3' away and feel the air hitting you from the hole.It's a 15/16" craftsman socket 3/8" drive. Carefully cut the dust cap with an exacto knife. Soon as the socket gets near the magnet it's going to suck the socket quickly, so be carefull. See pics in my gallery.

serenechaos 10th September 2005 04:13 PM

Yes, and they make a very noticable difference to me!

15/16" craftsman, 1/2" drive.

15/16" side to inside, 1/2" side facing out.
The brand name of course doesn't make any difference, but that's what's used, so those are the dimensions to look for.
It is said that the concave part on the 1/2" side is important.
Also, some people report it helps to wrap the outer part of the outside edge with something soft: e.g. a ribbon of cloth, although I haven't tried that yet.


tade 10th September 2005 09:26 PM

that is so cool, i like the fact the website didnt say simply that. Where can i buy the driver unmodded, and do you recommend it?

Dumbass 10th September 2005 11:13 PM


Originally posted by tade
that is so cool, i like the fact the website didnt say simply that. Where can i buy the driver unmodded, and do you recommend it? and yes.

I currently use the FE207E (shielded version of the FE206E) in 45 liter vented cabs, but if I were starting from scratch I would build the Martin King Project 5.

If you are a good woodworker, you could build a back-loaded horn for the FE206E, there are a number of good designs out there but if it were me I would build Ron Clarke's Dallas II design.

I think the FE207E is a great driver for the money. It has a bit of a forward emphasis, easily remedied by toeing in the speakers so their axes cross well in front of the listener. This also creates nice stereo imagery and a large sweet spot.

serenechaos 11th September 2005 04:32 AM

I use a pair of FE206s (from Madisound) in DIYed Decware HDTs.
Highly recommended.
Check out the Decware site forum :)

Scottmoose 11th September 2005 09:41 PM

Easily the best driver[s] available for the price. They'll do fine detail in jazz, chamber, classical and folk music, but believe me, they can rock too. They seem to lap up the soundtrack to Miami Vice with glee. Buy either with confidence. Then stick whichever you choose, the 206 or 207 (I like the 207 -better bass performance) in Martin's MLTL project mentioned above, or buy a spectacularly detailed set of plans from Bob Brines for the bargin price (and it is) of $25 for a slightly more refined version. Both of these cabinets will also take Lowther's in the future...


bbaker6212 12th September 2005 04:55 AM

I was thinking a safe way to insert the sockets into the drivers. Secure the driver facing up on a drill press table. Cut off the female end of a socket extension and mount it in a drill press along with the socket on the male end. And there ya go...

I'll put money that was the reason the socket is oriented with that side facing out.

Btw, I also own a pair of the Decware HDT MK-I with these drivers the "alternate tuned" HDT cabinets. Very nice sound ;-)

serenechaos 12th September 2005 06:00 PM

I just used an extension as a handle,
put the socket/phase plug on the driver
then removed the extension.
Easy, no big deal at all.
robert :)

indoubt 12th September 2005 08:03 PM

I think that there are some measurements done with a lightbulb as initial phase plug on Tony Gee's site (humble homemade hifi) for this driver.

Look at the Solo 206 model

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