RS 40-1354a drivers in backhorn housing

[TB]

Hello,
I bought those speakers on sale just before they vanished from stores. Finally, I found some time to think about housing for them and this is my dilemma. I thought about backhorn type enclosure, but I can not find any plans for it. I have searched the net and the only found plans are for smaller RS product: 40-1197 ( Fostex website with plans for FE 103 and another site with plans for Buschhorn ). It looks like DIYs used them mostly in box, TQWT, and folded TQWT enclosures. Since those drivers have good opinion, I would like to build enclosures which would bring the best from them. Somehow, I think backhorn type of housing would be more dynamic than TQWT, but I can be wrong. That is why I am asking forum members for help to decide what would be the best solution. I will be driving them by low power amps ( chip or valve ). I am not bass hungry, but it would be nice to have some bass to fill the image. I also would not like to use any cross overs with them. Did anyone try to use those drivers in this type of housing? Can I use any enclosures shown on Fostex website? ( I did try to match RS parameters with Fostex drivers, but nothing looks similar).
Thanks

[jeremym]

I'm not a horn guru, but I think the Qts is too high on the 1354 to be used in a horn. I've got mine in ML TQWP's and they are very nice indeed, especially when you factor in the cost of the driver. They need a tweeter up high though, the driver really drops off in the top octave.

[roddyama]

I don't know how it would work either but went I was in Japan last year I seen these little jewels.

[GM]

Greets!

Contrary to 'conventional wisdom', BLH actually work better with higher Qts drivers since it limits the need for mids to come out of the mouth, so in this respect the 40-1354 is a strong contender. Unfortunately, it's diaphragm design makes it a poor candidate for a conventional BLH loading since it's very flimsy and has numerous decoupling rings (mechanical XOs) that won't work properly if highly damped by a horn. Ditto its surround, which deforms easily. Been there, done that and didn't like it at all, but as always YMMV.

GM

[TB]

Hi,
Thanks for your responses.In that case I will go with this design:
http://geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/Weems_Pipe.html
Is it possible to replace fiberglass tiles with pieces of thicker carpet glued to the top and back of the cabinet, and back of the partition? ( it is strange that no damping material is being placed inside of the throat what seems to common for folded pipes)

[GM]

Greets!

There's two designs there, I recommend you build the version based on his straight pipe except use 19mm Baltic Birch and just line one side down to just below the driver, top end, top of cab with 1" thick acoustic fiberglass: http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/Pa...ight_Pipe.html

WRT to the carpet Q, it will damp a different BW than the acoustic tile, so I don't see it as a viable substitute. Anyway, with BB ply, it's moot.

GM

[gmilitano]

Several people have had success with the 40-1354 in a simple book shelf bass reflex cabinet .. The Hawaii Five-0 (5.0)

http://www.myhifisite.50megs.com/hawaii.html

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

[soongsc]

Originally posted by roddyama
I don't know how it would work either but went I was in Japan last year I seen these little jewels.

I recall those are DIY kits CNC machined MDF.