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#101 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Taiwan
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Quote:
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#102 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: US Midwest
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I concur with Nardis, Colin, in thinking that your hexagonal prism cabs are elegant. I'd like to see what you come up with next.
One question: Do you have these near or even in a corner? And how far apart are they? Greetings Nardis, Quote:
Love it. Quote:
I'm not familiar with iroko, but some quick essentials about teak for however much the two are similar: 1.VERY low expansion-contraction coefficient, generally doesn't crack, twist, or warp, and remains stable in tropical, desert, freezing, and, of course, marine environments. (The teak on the decks of the Titanic is said to be as good today as before it sank.) 2. It is delightful to work using hand (and, I'm told, machine) tools, with one caveat: The high silica content dulls your tools really fast. The dust is also an important consideration on that account; wear your mask. 3. Actually one more combined virtue/caveat: Along with its stability, teak's high natural-oils and silica content make finishing unnecessary in many applications, but on this same account, gluing can be tricky; you need to apply the glue (and what finishes you do use) to freshly exposed surfaces to insure success. If your recycled iroko teak is basically a subsitute for Tectona grandis teak, your source/find is a real treasure; purchased unused, as I'm sure you know, T. grandis is exceedingly expensive and rare, 80% of the world's supply coming from Myanmar/Burma, where it still is—and probably will be and should be in the future—harvested by elephants! (...not by the elephants alone; I think they have drivers BTW, if one happens to have a teak tree in the back yard, its silica-laden leaves make excellent sandpaper! |
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#103 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
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>I concur with Nardis, Colin, in thinking that your hexagonal prism cabs are elegant. I'd like to see what you come up with next. One question: Do you have these near or even in a corner? And how far apart are they?
Thanks for the comment. I'm aware of making one or two compromises in building these enclosures so may have a second go now I have a clearer aim in mind. I particularly want to be able to hide the l/s connections in the base. I usually veneer cabinets as a good way of hiding screw holes etc so I've yet to try painting an enclosure. The enclosures are about 12 feet apart, against one wall. I listen about 8 feet back from that wall. The left enclosure is in a corner, which sometimes makes it sound fractionally louder. Room re-arrangement coming up sometime soon. Colin |
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#104 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Hi,
after 5 years (see previous message date) do you have answers to the question in thread title? Summary of the eleven pages of the thread. 1-Opinion of Mr. Pass and many others: in case of very complex music signal such as orchestral music one driver is not sufficient. 2-Many diyers proposed the Jordan JX92S in MLTL enclosure. I built the last speakers; I am enjoying them a lot in Jazz and small acoustic ensemble music (may be just a little bit of lack of details when compared with more expensive drivers) but I found them not completely satisfying in the reproduction of large orchestra. Can you propose some alternatives? Could OBs with a large woofer be a possibility? My room is 6.2m X 4.7m x 2.8m (20' X 15' X 9'), but unlikely I have not the space for a very large OB. Thank you Renato Unli |
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#105 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Taiwan
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I think you are asking for a speaker that I have never experienced regardless the price. Also, depending on what seating in a real hall, the reproduction is subject to interpretation. To make things more complicated, recording, mixing and mastering process may have made it absolutely impossible. Finally, and probably mentioned many times in many occasions and publications, the amount of power may not be suffecient.
Now, if you were planning on building a new listening room and everthing from ground up, here is something that will give you an idea what magnitude of engineering effort is involved minumum. 20,000 Watt Home Hi-Fi System
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#106 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Hi Soongsc,
thank you for your reply. I would say that your point of view is very near the one of my wife. In some way she is even more radical: "Why are you waisting time, just buy a cheap boom box because anyway home music reproduction is far fom being similar to the concert we listened to in the concert hall." Renato |
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#107 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Taiwan
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It's really a difficult decision. Most manufacturers will not publish all the necessary information to make a sound judgement. It took me over a year to figure out how important CSD is in performing closer to real dynamics level. Normally, you get to a certain volume level, then drivers own sound becomes annoying, this is really the first limitation. If this is overcome to the maximum SPL you desire to play at, then the next limit will probably be the amplifier power. However, with the Jordan drivers, it's possible to clean up the CSD some more, which will make it more appealing for all kinds of music. Please look through the original ENABL thread where I posted some quick trials. Unfortunately, I did not take it further. If there is enough interest among the Jordan users, I guess I could put some efforts into it.
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