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Old 5th November 2007, 06:25 PM   #101
Pano is offline Pano  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kensai
they're just a pair of Farberware bamboo cutting boards, $10 each at walmart
Ah ha! I thought so. That's a good price, too. I"ve done some work with bamboo cutting boards and bamboo plywood. Nice stuff.

Keep up the good work, let us know how the Dayton Neo tweeters work out for you. I like mine.




FYI, sometimes it's a good idea to put a small inductor across these neo tweeters. Like ~0.1mH Keeps the bass signal from hitting the resonant peak of the tweeter. Alas, the coil is often bigger than the driver!
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Old 5th November 2007, 06:30 PM   #102
Variac is offline Variac  United States
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I wasn't too interested in the Phase plugs at first, but as Kensai says, once you get the speakers built up and like them it's nice to have a way to improve them . The Pioneers are so agreeable and pleasant to listen to that you just appreciate them more as time goes on- but MORE of that appreciation- that's appealing!

So, it's a low risk to first build without the plugs, and then if you think that they are "keepers, a little more money makes sense. One of us still needs to try the "phase plug with the PE tweeter on the end coaxial" though... It seems that Dave would be tempted! I guess that it would have to be a longer plug, obviously with the end chopped off!!

a hollow structure would work better of course, as you could insert the tweeter into it. I'm looking at model rocket nosecones!!

Mark
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Old 5th November 2007, 08:42 PM   #103
John L is offline John L  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kensai
John,

I can never figure you guys when you're all saying that driver positions of 30"-38" are "ear height". I'm only 6'2", and when I sit up in that chair, my ear height is around 46". The driver centers there are about 43", so even when I slouch a bit, they're not much above ear height. I'm all leg, too. I mean my wife is 5'3" and when we're sitting on the same surface she's only maybe 5"-6" shorter than me.


Ok, ok, you win. I give up.



Quote:
I'm mulling about several different options for bass, though with no budget and no time, I'm having a hard time getting started. Besides, I use an E-Mu 0404 sound card as my source, and it allows for nearly unlimited EQ control, in the digital domain before the signal hits the DACs, and with that I am able to get these B20s on these 12"x18" baffles to be solid to 60Hz or so, with audible response down into the lower 50s all the way up to a touch over 16kHz. As far as I can hear since no matter what I'm testing, including a pair of Grado headphones or a 2-way monitor using a B&G Neo3PDR tweeter that's supposed to be good way up over 20kHz, that's as far as I can reliably pick out a test tone from the harmonics. However I do find that a stiff shot of EQ boost in the top frequencies does produce alot more audible "air", if you know what I mean.
If you are interested in bass and low on budget, perhaps you may wish to try this.

Click the image to open in full size.

It's less than $20, which includes the case(which is quite nice) and an 8" subwoofer. Adding a brace or two will even improve things for cabinet stiffness.

All that is missing is the plate amp. You can replace it with P E 70 watt plate amp, which was on sale until last week. I'm awaiting my amp to arrive, along with some other items, and I will be up and running with my new computer sub.

Quote:
Oh, and don't forget the phase plugs. Got mine from P10, and they totally make a new driver out of the B20s (which were already an order of magnitude better than my old Kenwoods when they were stock).

Kensai
You'll have to pardon my ignorance, but I have been away from the speaker building scene for some years. First, what is "P10", and how do I go about getting a pair of phase plugs for my Pioneers? Perhaps you could give me a link? I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
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Old 5th November 2007, 09:07 PM   #104
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P10 refers to Dave Dlugos, one of the DIYaudio forum moderators & all round great bloke, who goes under the moniker 'planet10' and runs www.planet10-hifi.com (as well as the frugalhorn & t-line speakers sites) where you can buy the aforementioned plugs for your drivers.
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Old 5th November 2007, 09:42 PM   #105
John L is offline John L  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scottmoose
P10 refers to Dave Dlugos, one of the DIYaudio forum moderators & all round great bloke, who goes under the moniker 'planet10' and runs www.planet10-hifi.com (as well as the frugalhorn & t-line speakers sites) where you can buy the aforementioned plugs for your drivers.
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Old 6th November 2007, 02:03 AM   #106
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Yeah, what he said.

And thanks for the link. There was a time I tried to get a set of those Spherex speakers on the cheap, but it didn't pan out. Doing it this way would be much more convenient.

Kensai
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Old 6th November 2007, 03:24 AM   #107
John L is offline John L  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kensai
Yeah, what he said.

And thanks for the link. There was a time I tried to get a set of those Spherex speakers on the cheap, but it didn't pan out. Doing it this way would be much more convenient.

Kensai
Here is something else to consider as well. I know you are stuck on your baby here as she is, but I am considering your thinking of getting the entire XBox at one time. The cubes are also on closeout, but to me they are ugly as sin itself. I wouldn't have one of them on my desktop for just about anything.

However, there is a substitute, which you can find right here. I bought four of them and have a set of .25cf cabinets made. I forgot to order the terminal sections for the rear, so I'm awaiting them along with the plate amp. When they arrive, I will complete the sub and the buyout cabinets and then veneer the later with reconstituted oak veneer.

I wasn't able to examine the 2nd order crossover closely because both inductor and cap were covered in black pitch of some kind. But I hear that they are a real steal for the price of less than $5 each, as you can see from the link. That's just something else to consider.


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Old 6th November 2007, 12:47 PM   #108
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Yeah, the Spherix are ugly, but the only reason I would want them would be for the Mirage omnipole alignment. They're not very big and I could easily hide them as surround channels.

Those weird little 5x7s seem pretty neat, and if we had some specs for them, I'd be interested. I've got lots of folks who need an upgrade from TV speakers, but I would need to be able to design some enclosures for them to be worth anything outside of a car.

Kensai
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Old 6th November 2007, 02:26 PM   #109
GM is offline GM  United States
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Greets!

FWIW, every measured car audio driver I've seen in many a year other than sub drivers has had a Qts >1.5 to deal with dash, trunk and lossy door panel mounting, so OB or relatively huge aperiodic is required to get to Fs without excessive 'ringing' in a HIFI app.

GM
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Old 6th November 2007, 05:46 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally posted by holdent
1. How far down is the B20 in the TL? If your diagram is to scale it looks like it is about 8.5 in (from the inside).

2. Did you find the need to add a BSC? When I simulated the TL using Martin King's TL Sections worksheet it appears that a BSC is needed. Something like 5 ohms and 3 mH seems to be right.
1) It's not critical, just put it where you see it in the drawing.

2) I didn't use BSC, and I don't recall that it needed it.

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