CSS FR125S ... production units playing now...

[theNoid]

Originally posted by planet10


Why not just make your own?

dave

Well the thought has crossed my mind a few times yes. But when it comes to building speakers, I get as much of a woody from the aesthetics portion of it all as well as the listening pleasure. I am sure I could build my own and make them look decent but when I figure in the cost of the Scan-Speaks compared to the rest of the project's budget, it really does equal a minimal amount and well worth it in the end for me.

Noidster

[chrisb]

Originally posted by Peter Menting
Excellent! Thanks Dave;

My bi-polar FR125's should be done in a few days; right now the drivers are "loosening up" in an undersized bi-polar MLTQWT designed for a 4" Tangband, even with the wrong volume and length they are still the most impressive full range driver that I have ever heard.

Thought I would use a single for the center channel, about 290cu " with the variovents, your suggestion will save quite a few bucks, (to be invested in some other part of the system of course!)

Thanks again.

Pete

Pete - mine have been breaking in for just over a week now, and yep, they're pretty damned fine fresh from the box.

I've currently got three pairs of bi-pole MLTL's*; BB ply & MDF for the FR125 (awaiting arrival of more drivers from Bob for the materials "shoot-out"), and BB ply for Fostex FE127E.

* since initial supplies of "field test samples" of the FR drivers was limited, we're runnig WR's on the rear of the bi-pole; by merely rotating the tower 180degrees, it's pretty apparent that the tweaking on FR design definitely worked - makes one wonder what a FR165 might be capable of.


After recent tragedies with dust-cap-ectomies the latter FE127E, (consult Dave Dlugos for potential risks therein) I've had to install a fresh quad, and start the whole break-in process all over.

FWIW, while I've never actually heard a pair of Jordans, I can heartily agree that the CSS FR/WR125 will be hard to beat. However, as was mentioned earlier in this thread not SE friendly; but currently sounding wonderful on an EL34 P/P triode ( Jolida 302)

Tim, et al: I'm most interested in any listening impressions vis a vis the FE127E in similar application. Even fresh from the box, there's something quite organic and engaging about the midrange on this Fostex sleeper. I'm torn between them and the FR/WR125 bipole.

TomZ - will you be publishing drawings of your BLH for the FR125?

[Peter Menting]

Just finished first two spray coats on main cabinets, the base and driver baffle are red oak so they will take a few days to complete but were gett'in close.

Even in Bi-polar the 4 Ohm load that these drivers present at maybe 89-90 db is going to suck out a lot of power from any tubeamp, especially a SET.

I was planning on EL 84 PP, but I think I'll look into KT-88's instead, i believe that 30-40 watts should make them sing!

Pete

[chrisb]

Originally posted by Peter Menting
Just finished first two spray coats on main cabinets, the base and driver baffle are red oak so they will take a few days to complete but were gett'in close.

Even in Bi-polar the 4 Ohm load that these drivers present at maybe 89-90 db is going to suck out a lot of power from any tubeamp, especially a SET.

I was planning on EL 84 PP, but I think I'll look into KT-88's instead, i believe that 30-40 watts should make them sing!

Pete

Pete, if you've got access to a working PP EL84, you might want to try that first before dedicating yourself to a higher power, possibly more complex amp than these babies really need.

For example, I borrowed an AudioNote OTO PP integrated from a local dealer the other day, just to prove the point: 12Watts EL84 (Sovteks), EI ECC83 input & phase/splitter drivers - nothing revolutionary about the circuit I don't think. Nice enough sounding amp, but I'd dare say could be equaled or excelled for a fraction of the price DIY.

Plenty of power for my listening needs, and I'm not sure the compatibilty issue is a matter of efficiency; the first pair of speakers I built about 5 years ago ( Vifa P13/D45 TL) are around the same efficiency level; even with crossovers they play fine at the same volume level on my EL84 monoblocks * that causes the amps conniption fits with the FR125 monopoles at 8ohms or the bipoles at either 4 or 16.

*(RH connected SE pentode/parallel feed output / EF86 triode driver)

There's something else going on there, but I'm not yet sure what.

[jleaman]

I might want to add that we demo'd these speakers with a Class a 15watt amp.. I would bet we used no more than 3watts ... 30-40 watts is over kill..

[doorman]

The "green" 125's in the mini "O's" sounded good with the mighty 2 watt Zen, but quickly ran out of gas. Chris's Jolida seemed about right powerwise. Less IS more!

[planet10]

I have gotten quite a few requests for the miniOnken plans so i tarted them up a bit and have posted them. I'm calling this version 0.9 just to cover my butt, but we are pretty happy with them.

http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes.html

dave

[planet10]

I have added a section talking about sealed boxes, and thrown up my suggestion for the little aperiodic box at the URL above.

dave

[jleaman]

Since i have been staring at these plans dave for the ribbon and the full range in a book shelf type box, and 2 enclosures with the extremmis driver's for sub's.. Would it be a good idea to go ported for now then when i get the subs built later on i could stuff the boxes OR get new ones made ?

Whats your idea..?

Remember i have 2 stereo amps with mini a's in them with 15 Watts of power and my blue amps class AB of 100watts for the extremmis driver's..

j'

[planet10]

Originally posted by jleaman
Would it be a good idea to go ported for now then when i get the subs built later on i could stuff the boxes?

That works... we just had a practical example with your 8" sub. Pick a sealed box size that is approprite for the end application and then add an appropriatly tuned port.

I will be drawing up "normally ported variations of the miniOnken which would be just about right and easier to stuff the port than the miniO.

dave