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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Buenos Aires
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Hi, I'm begining my firts project. A Jordan System as show in Jordan's site with the JX92S, trassmision line. I want to use the best posible materials in this project. My question is what cable must I use for internal wiring? Can use a good speaker cable?
Thanx in advance and sorry for my (bad) english. Regards Hugo |
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#2 |
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Speakerholic
diyAudio Moderator
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You may get conflicting answers here but I use 14 ga. high purity copper speaker wire. Anything more than that and you would be better to spend your money on other things.
Cal |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Hessen
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Hi,
i have made good experiance with solid core electric cable 1,5cm². Sounds very great, does not cost much. Just give a try. Greetings Raffi Bauer |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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Your best bet is probably going to be to use internally whatever you use as the main speaker cable, i.e. between the amp and the speaker. In fact, you could always go purist, and simply run the cable direct to the amp from the speaker if you feel like it. That's rather drastic though!
I'm not one for spending huge amounts on cables; they might sound different, but different doesn't mean 'better'. Try some heavy-guage mains cable, CAT5, CAT5e or CAT6 network cable or whatever zip cord is available at your local hardware store: my view is the more copper (or whatever conductor material is used) that you use the better as you've less resistance: ultimately, it's just electricity after all. This is a highly contentious area however, and lots of people have lots of different views, which is fair enough. I try not to get involved in cable arguments (a minefield if ever there was one), but don't get too stressed about it: It's a short run; you can't do much harm, unless you use a stupidly thin or very odd combination of features; these always affect the sound, and rarely for the better. Oh, and trust me: you're English is excellent by the way. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: US
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http://home.att.net/~chimeraone/ccca...diosolder.html
NO SPEAKER BINDING POSTS (i.e. connect your litz braid of OCC wire to your Jordan and to your amp's binding posts). Use a pure silicone caulk to seal the holes in the speaker cabinet where the cable runs through (and keep the holes as small as possible).
__________________
perspective is everything |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Taiwan
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1. Around #14 more or less, copper or silver, non-plated.
2. If you use the compensation network, I would recommend foil inductors of the #14. This is where the longest wire run is. 3. Use same guage wiring from amp to driver, preferably the same material too. 4. Connectors are of great convenience, and there are too many types. In generall, the hand locked type is preferred for consistent pressure that won't loosen over time, more contact area the better.
__________________
Hear the real thing! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Buenos Aires
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THANXXX!!
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi,
I second the CAT5 solution. just one more comment, more copper in the bass, a bit less in the mid and somewhat less again for the treble. A full range will be a compromise. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Taiwan
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To think about it, probably you might get by with #16 coils, I can't remember what size the JX92S coil leads are.
__________________
Hear the real thing! |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: UK
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To clarify, for mid / bass drivers, you're theoretically best using a wire with a large[r] cross-section. For the treble, you want a larger surface area (litz-style), nominally to reduce skin-effect. Think mains-cable for the former, and, say, coax, using the tubular screen as the conductor, for the latter, so long as you keep enough copper / whatever there to keep resistance as low as possible.
Cat 5 and its variations have a decent reputation as being a good compromise. The winding isn't enough to cause major capacitance / inductance benefits or problems, but it will help reject RFI slightly, and using a few runs, you get plenty of copper. It's also cheap. I still wouldn't be that bothered though; have a look at the articles here if you fancy a good and scientifically accurate read on this and many other audio-related subjects: Rod Eliot is a man who knows what he is talking about. http://sound.westhost.com/articles.htm Me? I'll stick to my 12g zip cord and the occasional heavy mains cable. But then, maybe I'm just cloth-eared. |
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