Kofi Annan in: "The Full-Ranger and Swan-to" - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 12th May 2005, 12:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
If you scroll though this page you will find a swan design for 6" drivers the d-168. Good luck!
Thanks!

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buy some decent 15mm (5/8th) plywood and start cutting it on the D-101a plan then call Madisound and order a pair of FE108EZ's. Don't worry about the size
The D101a is becoming a very real consideration, but I'm a bit concerned with the sensitivity of the 108EZ (90dB). Remember, I'm only putting out 3.5W and you know tha K-Dogg likes to rock da haouwse once in a while!

Actually, rockin' da haouwse isn't that big of a consideration these days. I also like the smaller drivers that I've heard-- they seem to image better. But then, my experience has been limited.

Any impressions of the sound of the D-101a? I'd like to use a nice grade baltic birch for this one. How about bass response and damping? How low can it go and where's the best place to damp-i-fy? Is it just a "play around and see" deal or does anyone have specific advice?

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The D101s "Super Swan" drivers (FE108ES-II) are available
If that $170 is really $170US or more, you can forget this one. Unless I get the softer half hooked on pain pills and white wine spritzers. Of course, I've already eaten all the pain pills. And as far as the wine goes, well, you gotta have somthing to wash it down with...

OK-- let's make with the advice, here. Need to know if the D-101 will suffice in the WOW department or if the upgrade to the D-168 is worth it for the average UN Secretary General on tube watts.

Thanks!
Kofi
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Old 12th May 2005, 01:47 PM   #12
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I built a pair of Swan 101a's for my brother and he is using them with fe103's. Bass is suprisingly good (probably better with the 108sigma), however I'm sure a 6" would be better in the bass deptment. No real dampening needed just felt inside the filter chamber. I does need to be a little ways away from the rear wall though in my experience.
Joe
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Old 12th May 2005, 11:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Josephjcole
I built a pair of Swan 101a's for my brother and he is using them with fe103's. Bass is suprisingly good (probably better with the 108sigma), however I'm sure a 6" would be better in the bass deptment.
Sounds good. I think I'll go with the 108EZ in the D-101a design instead of the larger driver. Besides, if I like it, its not like I won't build the larger one at some point!

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No real dampening needed just felt inside the filter chamber. I does need to be a little ways away from the rear wall though in my experience.
Joe
Moving it away from the rear wall won't be a problem. I have, however, seen this speaker mounted on a stand. Is this adviseable? Is it to raise the driver to ear level or for something else?

Also, for the average dumbass, please define what "the filter chamber" is. Is it the back bass port?

Also, are there any other drivers I could consider for the D-101a besides the FE-103 and the FE-108EZ?

Thanks as always for the responses. This project should be significantly easier than stopping Iranian nuclear proliferation... and MORE FUN!!!

Kofi
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Old 13th May 2005, 02:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kofi Annan
Moving it away from the rear wall won't be a problem. I have, however, seen this speaker mounted on a stand. Is this adviseable? Is it to raise the driver to ear level or for something else?

Also, for the average dumbass, please define what "the filter chamber" is. Is it the back bass port?

Also, are there any other drivers I could consider for the D-101a besides the FE-103 and the FE-108EZ?

Thanks as always for the responses. This project should be significantly easier than stopping Iranian nuclear proliferation... and MORE FUN!!!

Kofi [/B]
I would think that the 108EZ would be your best bet. I'm not sure I've seen them on stands, but I'm sure it would be to raise the driver to ear level, as it is it sits slightly below ear level. The filter chamber is the "head" of the swan, what the driver mounts to. I think my brother and I ended up covering the whole inside of this chamber if memory serves me (which it does on ocassion
). I hope it goes well, I also hope you can manage to keep your son out of too much legal trouble, tough break there.
Joe
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Old 13th May 2005, 10:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Josephjcole


I would think that the 108EZ would be your best bet.
Sounds like a winner!

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I'm not sure I've seen them on stands, but I'm sure it would be to raise the driver to ear level, as it is it sits slightly below ear level. The filter chamber is the "head" of the swan, what the driver mounts to. I think my brother and I ended up covering the whole inside of this chamber if memory serves me (which it does on ocassion
).
Yeah. I'll probably wait to build the stands. I'll also cover the head, as you mentioned. What did you use for damping material?

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I hope it goes well, I also hope you can manage to keep your son out of too much legal trouble, tough break there.
Joe
Kids. What are you gonna do? You spend time with 'em, try to raise 'em right, then they go and ally with an oppressive dictatorship to try and screw the poor out of food in search of an easy payday.

He's totally grounded.

Kofi
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Old 13th May 2005, 10:48 PM   #16
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Default standing swans

Does anyone have any other info or pictures of these stands?

I was under the impression that the swans needed to be on the floor near the back wall for bass support?

thanx,
robert
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Old 14th May 2005, 03:06 AM   #17
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Default Re: standing swans

Quote:
Originally posted by serenechaos
Does anyone have any other info or pictures of these stands?

I was under the impression that the swans needed to be on the floor near the back wall for bass support?

thanx,
robert
Here's a link to some photos of the Swan with a stand. Its in Japanese, so if you want the details and you aren't familiar with congi, you could use the fish.

Now... anyone with any ideas on what I should use for damping in the filter chamber?

Kofi
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Old 14th May 2005, 03:14 AM   #18
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Default Re: Re: standing swans

Thanx for the lynx!

Quote:
Originally posted by Kofi Annan
Now... anyone with any ideas on what I should use for damping in the filter chamber?

Deflex!
http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind....25041&pid=956

And clean, carded wool to taste.

Robert
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Old 14th May 2005, 03:20 AM   #19
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The only dampening material we found nessesary was a little felt to cover the walls of the filter chamber, you can leave everything else bare wood. We experimented some with dampening the mouth in the rear, but ended up leaving it bare wood as well. Pretty straight foward, though maybe someone else (Andrewbee?) came up with something different.
Joe
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Old 14th May 2005, 08:46 AM   #20
rray786 is offline rray786  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kofi Annan

where's the best place to damp-i-fy? Is it just a "play around and see" deal or does anyone have specific advice?

Experiment! Isn't that what DIY speaker building is all about? Seriously, different rooms have different acoustics. And people have different tastes in what sounds good. As Joe mentioned, most people use felt in the chamber. Experiment with just felt on the back wall and felt on all the walls of the chamber. Since the mouth is rear firing, your room can probably absorb most of the undesirable resonances of the horn before the sound reaches your ears. So, you might not need any sound absorbing material in the mouth. However, I'd suggest experimenting with acoustic foam in the mouth anyway. The mouth of the Swan presents a great opportunity to shape the sound because of the 90 degree bends. For an analogy, consider a car wreck. A head on collision will cause a lot more damage than being sideswiped. So, the sound of the Swans can be shaped more than horn designs that use gradual tapers in the mouth. If you use a thick, soft foam, (especially at the 90 degree bends) you can really shape the sound.

I just built the D-168 for the 166esr driver. (BTW, I didn't comment on the sound of these speakers for several reasons. One is that I haven't heard other Fostex speakers so I don't have anything to compare it to. Another is that I'm still tuning my speakers. And finally, I didn't comment because the 166esr driver is no longer available -- I suspect that it sounds much different than the 168 sigma.) Anyway, my room is very dead. So, I'm not using any sound absorbing material in the chamber. (My Swans are lined with river rock, though.) I haven't tried using felt yet but I'll be trying it soon. (Acoustic foam doesn't work in the chamber! Well, at least in my room.) For the mouth, I'm using 1 inch thick Sonic Barrier from Parts Express. It really tightens up the bass and gives the illusion of more bass and a fuller sound. Plus, the Sonic Barrier allows me to place the mouth closer to the wall for deeper bass. Without the Sonic Barrier I have to place the Swans much further away from the wall to avoid a hollow sound. Well, that's my 2 cents worth!

Sincerely,
Rich
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