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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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OK, I know that BR for these speakers is not the right way to go about it. but i recently finished some rough grande 6 clones for a friend and they sound sooo good that my 166es-r in ob just dont cut it for me anymore. I know I should bite the bullet and just build the recomended horn cabs. which i do intend to do. but just dont have the time now, so I was hoping I could get someone who is experianced with the box calc software to give me a decent starting point for a FE166ES-R ported box. Thanks for any input. and happy listening!!!
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
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Hi,
I´d do something if I had the TS-parameters. Do you have them or measured? greets
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jens |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
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OK, I let WinISD calculate the missing parameters which should be close enough.
![]() It´s not the most ideal driver for a BR just as the stock FE166E. I put in the FE-167E (in a "Omega Grande 6"-like enclosure assuming ~20l) as a reference as you know that one. As an alternative you could try a simple ML-QWT like here. TQWP with FE166ESR That one will be a bigger floorstander but simple construction still. If you´re interested I could try them in MJK´s sheets. greets
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jens |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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that graph looks decent. what where the box volume and port info? thanks a bunch by the way.!!!
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
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The enclosure is 6.77l tuned to 92.39Hz. (0.239 cu ft.)
Port is 5cm in diameter and 6.51cm in lenght. (1.97"dia x 2,54" L) (The FE166ES-R is the green line) Before you start building: You also have the possibility to put some series resistance before the speaker to raise it´s Q. That might probably be your best option. I have to dig out the equation for that. hold on... If you wanna try the BR, you can download WinISD and change the port-diameter so it fits something you have available. Thinking about the ML-QWT: If you decide something bigger you should rather go for either the horn or a tapered QWT. A straight one is probably not that ideal (low Qts).
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jens |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
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My first attempt is with a series resistance of 3.3Ohm.
It raises Qes to ~0,318. ![]() (now the white line is the FE166ES-r with added resistance) Of course you´ll loose some precious sensitivity but if you get along without BSC etc. there should be enough left. A theoretical ideal Qes for the driver would be around 0.5 which would result in a series resistance of 7,8Ohm but I´m not sure if that is advisable and/or has additional drawbacks to "just" sensitivity.
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jens |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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wow thanks a bunch! that was exactly what i was looking for. would like to stay away from bsc if i can ill try it without my main amp is single ended el84 so 2 watts needs all the help it can get. but i have a chip amp and a digital amp also. so power isnt all that important. and its really easy to add or remove a resister. thanks again ill try that out with some left over birch i have.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
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Cool you wanna try it.
I knew about using series resistance to raise Q. Funny I never tried it more seriously and investigated in the subject. Be sure to let us know about the results. Jens - still listening to his 167Es
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jens |
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#9 | |
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The one and only
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Quote:
the output impedance of your amp. And 2 watts? I'm listening to them right now at 1/2 watt peaks.
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
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Quote:
Problem is you ideally would have to know the output impedance to properly simulate the driver, as volume requirements (at least for a BR) would change quite heavily with "tuned" Qes. Of course you can always add some resistance but not get rid of it.
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jens |
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